Jump to content
  • 0

Jeep help needed please !


rampant rivet

Question

Well would you believe it, just got my mates jeep sorted ready for Normandy and it starts playing up. It starts ok when cold and ticks over nicely then after a drive around the block it starts to run roughly on tick over and will not start very well when hot :mad:

We have changed the coil, condenser, rotor and plugs compression is good and its still not happy I'm thinking of fitting my carb from my GPW on it to see if that makes a difference or could it be fuel pump any advise much appreciated as the clock is ticking :nut: and if we cannot fix it I'll have to take my GP which will upset my mate who's 70 and was really looking forward to making this trip in his own vehicle.

 

Regards a frustrated Rivet :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Recommended Posts

  • 0
So, what is wrong with the Dodge?

 

Where do I start, I am working my way through a list that is added to daily, although the biggest issue at the moment is a sudden decision for it to overheat ! Bought from a dealer as a " very reliable, good runner" it is far from it at the moment. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
Where do I start, I am working my way through a list that is added to daily, although the biggest issue at the moment is a sudden decision for it to overheat ! Bought from a dealer as a " very reliable, good runner" it is far from it at the moment. :D

 

See Normandy or bust thread :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Not to hijack this thread but reading with interest, I am now experiencing hard starting from hot on my GPW (Solex carb) and everything checked out re spark and fuel etc. It starts no problem and runs from cold but if I switch it off after a short run it won't start (does with a tow/bump start). First thought of vapourising fuel and checked fuel lines etc, any other ideas or anyone experienced similar - does anyone know of any previous threads re same i can look for, have tried searching but nothing of similar has come up yet. Nothing changed or replaced recently so at a loss where to look next Chaps.

 

 

Regards

 

 

Gary

Edited by gazzaw
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
Not to hijack this thread but reading with interest, I am now experiencing hard starting from hot on my GPW (Solex carb) and everything checked out re spark and fuel etc. It starts no problem and runs from cold but if I switch it off after a short run it won't start (does with a tow/bump start). First thought of vapourising fuel and checked fuel lines etc, any other ideas or anyone experienced similar - does anyone know of any previous threads re same i can look for, have tried searching but nothing of similar has come up yet. Nothing changed or replaced recently so at a loss where to look next Chaps.

 

 

Regards

 

 

Gary

 

I had exactly this problem with my GPW and like you put it down to fuel vapourisation it wasn't it turned out to be the coil breaking down I replaced it and no more problems. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
Start with the ignition system first,

you say it starts with a push or tow? then you may have a problem related to coil robbing or a weak coil, if you put the starting handle in will it start?.

 

Pete

 

Yes starts with handle, Now put a new Lucas coil of same spec as last one, it has been converted to 12v and has alternator and Jolley Electronic Ignition in it (5yrs old) but still same. Wonder if Elec Ign needs replaced. Sparks look ok at plugs and plugs fairly new as well as plug leads, Dist cap, rotor arm etc

 

gary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

If it starts on the handle when hot I wouldn't think you have a fuel issue. May well be ignition related.

I'm not familiar with the Jolly set up. But a problem with early electronic ignition systems could be a break down of the modual due to heat transfer issues. Once the unit cooled down it would function fine until it heated up again.

 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

If it starts on the handle and when bumped, have you considered the battery, battery leads, or starter? I have no idea how these are located in relation to the hot parts of engine or exhaust on a Jeep, though.

 

trevor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Thanks pete was leaning towards the electronic unit breaking down. The starter is good and new battery and leads as well as the multitude of earth straps over engine etc

 

Might see if my budget will run to another electronic unit but expensive swap out to find out if it is something else

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Two things come to mind. First check every connection on the starter, is clean and tight, even if it feels tight. Check and clean battery earth Ditto! I've had similar problems in the past, and all lead back to these very simple things. They may look clean and tight, but can still play up. Solinoid also comes to mind, check that, and the wires to the ignition switch, same principle can appear tight and clean, but only needs a slight movment.

 

Is this a sudden problem, or long running?

Edited by Tony B
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
Two things come to mind. First check every connection on the starter, is clean and tight, even if it feels tight. Check and clean battery earth Ditto! I've had similar problems in the past, and all lead back to these very simple things. They may look clean and tight, but can still play up. Solinoid also comes to mind, check that, and the wires to the ignition switch, same principle can appear tight and clean, but only needs a slight movment.

 

Is this a sudden problem, or long running?

 

I agree, in the past I had a problem with my VW split screen van, it turned out the poor earths appeared to rob power from the spark, once I had cleaned and sorted all connections it started fine. It's human nature to start at the most complicated fixes when it's something simple after all, we've all done it :-D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Only developed earlier this year, starter and solenoid kicking over with no problems, even to point of nearly flattening battery. engine refurbished last year (about 15 months ago) and all leads cleaned and fitted etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Strange, it starts on the handle. If it was a major problem it just wouldn't go. Does the starter sound as if it is slower when turning the engine hot? I'd have the starter out and check it.

Edited by Tony B
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
Strange, it starts on the handle. If it was a major problem it just wouldn't go. Does the starter sound as if it is slower when turning the engine hot? I'd have the starter out and check it.

 

Agreed Tony, the push start and handle start point to voltage drop on the low tension ignition circuit, the modual should be able to cope with a larger voltage drop than than conventional points/coil system but this assumes there are no high resistance issues when the modual is hot.

 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Richard

 

Thanks, yes still have original points and baseplate etc so will swap them and see how it goes. Starter and battery pretty strong and no discernable change in noise or power when turning over hot or cold until it gets to point of draining due to repeated tries etc but that is me draining it and not a voltage leak/drop elsewhere. Charges up and keeps charge pretty quickly after short run etc

 

Gary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Been thinking about this and gone back to first principles of stupidity. What's the diffrence between starting on the starter and the handle? Speed and vibration. So get the vehicle to where it plays up and then put a spark gap in bettween the plug and lead. Turn over on starter and see if you get a spark. If you don't there is a problem. The other thing is a mechanical fuel pump. When you use a handle the fuel is in small quantys at low pressure. Could the pump be flooding the carb? Or creating a partial vacum and starving the fuel. Either way I'd change any flexi pipe between tank line and fuel pipe, they can wear internally and cause all sorts of weird things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Our Dodge this similar as your problems.

After a while I noticed it ran ok for 43 minutes precise.

It was the coil, replaced with same time, ran ok for 1 hour and a half and problem returned.

 

Replaced the coil for a different type and problems are over.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...