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Dodge M37 charging


sim60

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While checking over the dodge to get it to run better I have checked the voltage going to the batteries(it`s 24 volts),It was about 35 volts so I had a look in the regulator and cleaned all the contact`s, there`s now 32 volts coming in, the book says there should be 30 but doesn't tell you how to alter it.Inside there are 3 set`s of contacts, one set is open when off but then permanently closed, the middle set clicks on and off and the third set doesn't appear to move?. There are little adjusting wheels on the spring`s but did not want to move anything. Should it be adjustable and if so do you alter the tension? And should the third set move?.

Thanks simon

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While checking over the dodge to get it to run better I have checked the voltage going to the batteries(it`s 24 volts),It was about 35 volts so I had a look in the regulator and cleaned all the contact`s, there`s now 32 volts coming in, the book says there should be 30 but doesn't tell you how to alter it.Inside there are 3 set`s of contacts, one set is open when off but then permanently closed, the middle set clicks on and off and the third set doesn't appear to move?. There are little adjusting wheels on the spring`s but did not want to move anything. Should it be adjustable and if so do you alter the tension? And should the third set move?.

Thanks simon

 

Hi Simon,

One question how accurate is your test meter. Im not sure that voltage would make much differance to the running of the Dodge.

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The reason I checked the voltage I was worried that to many volts would damage the coil, as many of the replies I got about it cutting out was it might be the coil packing up when hot. I was hoping to get it sorted before the winter run and possibly go on that(thought it might be a bit cold on the bike).

Simon

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The charging rate won't affect the ignition coil, if the coil is failing its because its shorting out internally and it needs replacing.

Be Very carefull with the regulator box, its so easy to cause a lot of damage, Never remove the cover with the batteries connected, if you touch the cut out relay when its live it will cut in and without the engine running it will burn out the dynamo and the wiring, probably cause a fire.

Never attempt to adjust the regulator box its an auto electricians job

If the ammeter is showing a charge then its ok, leave the regulator alone!

Edited by Nick Johns
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Thanks I did disconnect the batteries before I took the top off. I just wanted to make sure that everything was ok before I put a new coil in(as 24 volt one`s are not cheap),I didn`t want to fit a coil and have the same problem again. I will take your advice and leave well alone.

Thanks again Simon

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While checking over the dodge to get it to run better I have checked the voltage going to the batteries(it`s 24 volts),It was about 35 volts so I had a look in the regulator and cleaned all the contact`s, there`s now 32 volts coming in, the book says there should be 30 but doesn't tell you how to alter it.Inside there are 3 set`s of contacts, one set is open when off but then permanently closed, the middle set clicks on and off and the third set doesn't appear to move?. There are little adjusting wheels on the spring`s but did not want to move anything. Should it be adjustable and if so do you alter the tension? And should the third set move?.

Thanks simon

 

Hi,

 

I used to own one of these (same problem) and our fleet M-35 also had an over-charge condition. Many M-Series have an adjuster on the Alternator , its a small slot screw under a hex head metal plastic cap or plug. You can adjust the output on the unit if you were needing to run Radios and other equipment, and adjust it down if you were just running the truck without extra radios etc. You should have 27.5 VDC as your charge rate, higher than 28.5 VDC and you will eventually run your batts dry.

 

Whats the dash guage showing? mid "green"

 

Cheers

 

CWC Canada

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Hi, it was showing in the red as it`s a gauge with red/yellow/green then red as the original one broke and this was the closest replacement I could get.

Thanks Simon

 

 

Ok,

 

try locating the adjuster, it will be on the "barrel" of the alternator, towards the rear, should be able to access from the top. once exposed, you can turn down the screw to reduce the current flow

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Ok,

 

try locating the adjuster, it will be on the "barrel" of the alternator, towards the rear, should be able to access from the top. once exposed, you can turn down the screw to reduce the current flow

 

if you turn it down while the engine is running (carefully), you will be able to see the voltage drop as you are turning it, as well, the needle on the guage will drop into mid green. Best to set it up mid-green arc with the lights on

 

Cheers

 

Nick

 

CWC Canada

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Except this M37 has a dynamo(generator) system not an Alternator hence the separate voltage control box

 

Ah,

 

yes, that does tend to complicate matters somewhat, sorry, should have asked about the config. of the particular M-37. That's a different set up, has it been modified, or was there a reason for the different type of charging system?

 

cheers

 

Nick

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Ah,

 

yes, that does tend to complicate matters somewhat, sorry, should have asked about the config. of the particular M-37. That's a different set up, has it been modified, or was there a reason for the different type of charging system?

 

cheers

 

Nick

 

The early M37's had a dynamo charging system, I remember mine had when I owned it years ago, alternators were not generally on vehicles then.

Alternators were apparently fitted to later production radio trucks

Edited by Nick Johns
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