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12volt or not 12 volt, that is the question


pop larkin

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I am getting to the stage where I will soon be looking at the wiring/electronics of my Chevy, and I am thinking about the 12 volt conversion. My original plan was to go the conversion route and make it 12 volt, but are there really any great advantages to making it 12 volt or is it an unnecessary job? :dunno:

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Pop I've found it a real boon over the years, from being able to run the GPs and reversing camera whilst traveling to keeping the camping fridge going. Ease of starting is just a bonus.

 

Its a nut and bolt job than can always be restored.

 

Just my thoughts.

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Do it, the problem with 6 volts is you only need some dodgy connections and you soon loose valuable volts to the coil, for instance I was loosing 1.5 volts just accross the ignition switch !!!! couple that with the volt drop at cranking and I was down to 3.5 volts at the coil not good when you could do with 6 for the coil to make a nice fat spark... also if you get a situation where the 6 volt bat goes flat what do you do ( push start it, I think not ). With a 12 volt set up you can just get a jump start if needed. you can add good bright rear lights and even halogens in the front head lights, I know its not original but if you are going to lots of trouble to restore it and then drive it to shows on our crazey fast roads you need all the help you can when you can only drive at 45 MPH MAX. I had this problem about 2 years ago and after lots of uming and aring I went for it and its great starts first time what ever the weather cold, damp ect...and you can keep the starter motor all you change is the dynamo to an alternator sort out the fuel gauge and there you go.

 

R Cubed

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Oooopppps forgot to say the coil I used was a Lucas one from an old style not electronic ignition Jag well it is a 6 pot and about the same cc ? works for me.......

 

For indicators I used the wiring diagrams from a old Range Rover and also the Hazard switch as it is a panel mount one it is an easy thing to fit to a Jimmy, also used all the flasher relays ect from a Range Rover, now I have hazard lights for when I break down...

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I have never had any probelms starting her on the 6v system, however I already have the resistor for the fuel guage, and a the flasher unit for the indactors which I got from Rex Ward when I bought my first lot of resto bits from him. So a couple more specific 12 volt questions.

 

First off, my current rear lights are sealed, with 6v bulbs, so I have no way of changeing them. Are the new (repro ones) not sealed, so allowing me to change the bulbs? (I also want to use the rear blackout lamps as indicators so will need to to adapt the black out cover).

 

Jack where did you fit the warning light for the alternator? I want to keep it all looking as original as possible inside so don't want to drill any extra holes in the cab to fit it.

 

For the indicators. There are none on the truck at the moment, so I am going to use the front parking lamps, and rear blackout lamps to keep her looking original on the outside, but what options are available for the switch inside. I can use a horn hidden under the dash to warn when they are on, so i don't need a lamp, but don't want a hideous looking stalk attached to the steering column if I can help it.

 

Also, are the sealed beam headlamp units the same size as Mini units? I remember when I had my Mini a few years ago I got new lamp units that allowed me the fit the H4 halogen bulbs, so making seeing at night better.

 

Oh and 1 last thing. Are the alternator brackets the same on the 235 Chevy engine as the 270 GMC?

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Paul,

 

You can get 7 1/2" lenses for H4 lamps from Vintage wiring products. I started a thread on this conversion a while ago with some comparison photos. Do a search for 'halogen headlight conversion' or similar.

 

Incidentally, you can also get 6v H4s if you do decide to stay 6v.

 

My money's on 12v every time because with these old vehicles which don't get used very often and tend to live in relatively cold and damp environments, you can do with every volt you can get for starting. Originality is no comfort when the damn thing won't start!

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Jack where did you fit the warning light for the alternator? I want to keep it all looking as original as possible inside so don't want to drill any extra holes in the cab to fit it.

 

 

 

 

 

Morning Pop.

 

Funny enough, until this weekend, it was sticking out the side of the engine bay :whistle: Mr HardyFerret put pay to that and mounted it in the dash. So a hole was drilled. Personally I am not to worried about doing this as Mr HF drilled and fitted my indicator switch to as it was ducked taped to the dash :whistle: (see attached photo)

 

If you are concerned about authenticity then you are going to limit your options. I can fully undersatnd where you are coming from but like all things in life, there are trade off's. The are advantages, there are disadvantages........

 

I happy with having everything where it is and I am driving in the 21st century - with all of its associated rules and regulations :cry: I drove my truck into the office this morning (see enclosed picture taken from my office window this morning - no one mention the pink booster seat :oops:) and I kicked the button and it fire up on the first turn - it does help leaving the 6v starter in place as it turns as quick as hell.

 

 

width=640 height=480http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/richmorris/Dash1.jpg[/img]

width=640 height=480http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/richmorris/jim1.jpg[/img]

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For the indicators.so I am going to use the front parking lamps, and rear blackout lamps to keep her looking original on the outside.

 

Dont do this, this is how mine were when I bought my truck and trust me they are FAR TO SMALL in this day and age, had several close calls when people think you are going one way and you are actually going the other. What I have done is get a set of truck rear lights and wire them up to a trailer plug and then put a trailer socket up under the back of the truck out of site and on the lights fix to rear mud guards with wing nuts, get to show un plug lights spin off wing nuts and they are gone..

 

width=640 height=480http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/Rearlight.jpg[/img]

 

Also did this at the front with a indicator and side light combination going to a trailer socket under the bonett on the bulkhead.

 

width=640 height=480http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/Frontindicators.jpg[/img]

 

width=640 height=480http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/FrontIndandsidelight.jpg[/img]

 

Hope this is of help.

 

R Cubed

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Paul you can get warning lights from any autto electrical factor, or I should think Halfords would have them. Sorry I can't help regarding the brackets but if you go on the CCKW site Steve aka Dr Deuce will know if they are the same.

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