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Morris head gasket part number


Rick W

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You are right. They will start with LV/7 MM/ML/WY and then the part number.

The LV/7 is for vehicle group, and as far as I know, MM is for Moris Ten, ML for MCC and WY is for Wolsey. On many of the parts I have got, there is all three prefix'es but also on many parts, there is only ML. So I guess some parts are interchangable.

But hey, correct me someone if I am far of....

 

Rolf

 

Like this:

width=640 height=570http://img460.imageshack.us/img460/8547/c40842rj1.jpg[/img]

 

 

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I can't confirm the part number but i buy my head gaskets from John Walker in Nottingham as he has a good range of engine parts and you save on international postage costs

 

disadvantage is the gaskets he has left for the 4 cylinder have water jacket holes which are very slightly too big but that said i have run with one like that for a long time now and having taken the head off last year there was no adverse effects from it

 

i think i paid about £10 - £15 for my gasket

 

 

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I know the bloke, I got a head gasket from him, but he is charging £25 per gasket now as he hasnt many left. the reason I ask is that someone is selling 4 of them on Ebay, but it hasnt any bids, they are on at £20 for 4, but they are for the 1949-> Morris. Shame, I thought I had spotted a bargain.....oh well 8-)

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While I have your attention.....any ideas where I might be able to get the water hoses from? I can get radiator hose from one of our suppliers, but they only supply in 1 metre lengths which seems a bit overkill for what is fitted. Good old Morris seemed to use a different size hose for each part and only 3- 4 inches of it! While Im at it, a couple of my metal water pipes have more holes than a golf course, again , any ideas gratefully received.

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There is a crate with some hoses among the parts I have bought, but have not looked at them yet. But it seems to be radiatorhoses.... Do not know the quality on them thoe.

 

Will be back with more info as soon as I get the parts home, hopefully by the week-end.

 

Rolf

 

 

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Hi Rick,

I took the old hoses to my local motor factors and bought the nearest size to fit, I got the longer lengths as I can keep what's left for spares or to get someone out of trouble. With regard to the metal pipes, I don't see why you can't use plumbers copper piping and bend it to shape. :wave:

John.

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Thanks John and Rolf. I was thinking plumbing tubing as well. As for the hosing, no motor factors do it around here, hence I was thinking getting the long lengths in as they werent too expensive. Do you know what condition yours are in Rolf? There is a right angled piece of hosing that may be difficult as it is such a tight bend, did you have any problems with that John?

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That'll be great John, I was going to ask if you could take a photo of where your fuel pipe runs, from the tank change brass valve on the bulkhead to where it goes in the carb as this was non existent on mine when I got it. Will take some pics of mine so you can see how its cracking along. ;-)

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Hi Rick,

It sounds to me as if you have an Autovac system, are the change over valves on the forrard bulkhead above the clutch pedal? I don't have that system as I have a mechanical fuel pump which is fitted on the right hand side of the engine, looking forward from the cab. I had an Autovac system on the bulkhead which was not coupled up so I took it off and used the two valves as tank isolators. I took a pipe from left tank to a valve by the left filler cap so I could reach it from that side and from the other tank I put the other valve just by the back of the cab on the right side so I could reach that and then both lines went to a threeway coupling so I could run on either or both tanks.

Regards,

John.

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Hi Rick,

Iv'e just gone away and thought about it and I seem to remember the pipework still being in place when I stripped out the Autovac as I needed a bit of pipe. A line came from each tank to the shut off valve which went into each side of the Autovac which is like a short stubby cigar tube, that's a filter. From the outlet side it went to the carb. I can't remember how it went but mebbe it followed parallel with the fromt brake pipe to the front nearside wheel as I don't think it goes over the engine as I think the theory of the vac. feed was the induction stroke of the engine created a vacuum which sucked down the fuel and the higher the line after the Autovac the less efficient the vac. MEBBE

:?

John.

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Ahh. Now you are confusing my little mind! I have line up from the tanks to the brass tank change valve/switcher on the bulkhead, where you say, above the clutch pedal. What happens after that is a mystery. I have a NOS mechanical pump to go on the side of the engine, I just assumed the fuel line would run from the switchover to the pump to the carb. I dont seem to have anything resembling an Autovac. Although something like that would make sense else it is a lot of work for the pump to do. Suppose I'll have to suck it and see. :?

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