Jump to content

jeep engine rebuild


phil.c

Recommended Posts

Lost oil pressure on my mb engine but didn`t notice and think I may have knackered it. Anyone had any good experiences with specialist engine builders. I live in Birmingham but will travel if needed as I want it done right. What sort of price should I be expecting for a complete rebuild?

Any help appreciated.

Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Phil

 

If you would like to phone me I may be able to help on an hourly rate and parts basis, this may work out less than a complete rebuild. If you want a complete rebuild I can do that. This depends on the condition of the engine and what work has already been done. Some of these engines may have been reconditioned several times already and if you need things like sleeves in the bores that is more expensive. The best thing is give me a call, I will be cheeper than Dallas and I'm nearer.

 

Mike

 

Pm my phone number

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lost oil pressure on my mb engine but didn`t notice and think I may have knackered it. Anyone had any good experiences with specialist engine builders. I live in Birmingham but will travel if needed as I want it done right. What sort of price should I be expecting for a complete rebuild?

Any help appreciated.

Phil

 

I had some work done at the beginning of last year by Contact Engine Services Ltd Brierley Hill, recommended by a large jeep supply establishment in the Midlands and found them excellent to deal with and knew the engine inside and out. If needs be pm for contact details.

 

 

Hoppy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im no expert ...but probably most of the damage will be on the bottom end, so as long as your crank is within tolerance

 

you should be able to save it with a re-grinde @ £125 ish from a Engine rebuilders

 

new shells another £60 plus ( funnily enough i have just bought these from Cliff Harris ... just cant find the bill ...:shocked:)

 

you should not have much problem with the pistons but given the fact that the engine is all apart a full inspection/ rebuild seems sensible .....

 

If you have everything to hand and have had all the major remedial work done, Crank ground ...Nuts bolts , shims , Piston rings , Shells etc etc a good day should have the engine re built ....

 

 

You can save yourself a lot of money by buying the bit yourself ...Going from experience.

 

 

Question Why did you lose oil pressure ....Clogged oil-ways ....Faulty oil pump ....

 

 

if you have to ship the engine to someone like Dallas youll need to add Shipping to the Cost ...oh and VAT ...

 

ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your replies guys, been busy over weekend so haven`t had time to check forum, may have been a bit premature with my diagnosis. When these things happen I always fear the worst! Pump seems to have packed up so changed that and seems to be keeping pressure but hasn`t had a run yet. Would like to rebuild at some point so will keep posts for future reference.

Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The easiest thing to do first is drop the oil pan and take off the main bearing caps and look at them. If they were run dry they should be scored, and if you spun a bearing your motor is most likely done for.

 

If the visual inspection doesn't show any major damage to the journals, plastigauge the main bearing wear (not sure what it may be called across the pond). The rule of thumb is that if you can 'feel' the scratch with your fingernail it needs to be ground. If you're over max (3 thou is usually the limit) then you are not going to see oil pressure any time soon, and new bearings are called for. Do the same for the rod bearings... but I think the jeeps wear limit is 2 or 2.5 thou.. look in the book.

 

The only other place you can lose oil pressure is the camshaft bearings... but those you simply replace.

 

If you need to take the motor out for a crankshaft regrind you might as well replace the camshaft bearings, too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My costs in the US were $180 for a crankshaft magnaflux then grind/polish in 2012. Don't pay for a balance unless you are doing the whole engine. They should check for straightness for free.

 

Don't even consider NOS bearings.. get new production. CJ dealers have all the sizes down to the wear limit. IIRC Mains were $100 and rods were $80. New rear main and front seals are like $30 total. Plastigauge is $20 and assembly lube is like $10. Any name brand bearing will do.. there is nothing special about an L head engine.

 

Don't buy anything until the shop tells you what the crank was ground to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My costs in the US were $180 for a crankshaft magnaflux then grind/polish in 2012. Don't pay for a balance unless you are doing the whole engine. They should check for straightness for free.

 

Don't even consider NOS bearings.. get new production. CJ dealers have all the sizes down to the wear limit. IIRC Mains were $100 and rods were $80. New rear main and front seals are like $30 total. Plastigauge is $20 and assembly lube is like $10. Any name brand bearing will do.. there is nothing special about an L head engine.

 

Don't buy anything until the shop tells you what the crank was ground to.

 

Good solid advice here

 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...