LeeEnfield Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 I'm hoping someone here can help me,........I'm tearing what hair I've got out, over this........ The story,.thus far,........... MW delivered to storeage, I drove it off lorry, into said cover, it started and ran no probs. Switched it off, and left it. Next day, started fine, into reverse,...........BANG,SPLUTTER,SPLUTTER, .PHUTT........found to be out of fuel, on the drivers tank,...................(yes, I know, I should have checked,..........) no matter, thought I, always tank on passenger side,..which DID have fuel in it, opened that ones tap, and tried to start again,..................nothing.........!! removed fuel line and put airline back into tank,.thinking debris might be blocking line,.....did this on both lines,......................clear. removed line from pump, to check amount being pumped through, got helped to turn motor over,...............a dribble, ..........Hmmm,.............removed pump, found diaphram was not all that good, ..........so replaced pump with genuine NOS. tried again,.this time a good splurge of fuel. While the pipe was off, I disconected touther end at carb, and blew through that,................clear; replaced pipe, checked jets were all clear, and re-tried starting,.........to no avail. (also meant to say, put about 7 gallons in main tank, and switched back to it) So,.........fuel supply, good, ..........plenty getting through............ Sparks ??................Hmmm,.............not that good, although it did try starting on about 3-4 on odd occasions,....but wouldn't either pick up,..or rev out, making me think condenser. So have just replaced coil, condenser and rotor arm,............................points are spot on, plugs and leads look new; .........here goes.......................... Nothing..................... :? No spark,...................plugs getting wet, so fuel is present, but it refuses to fire. HELP................................................... :banghead: Cheers in advance for any help, recieved.................... Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 Have you checked the distributor cap for tracking and also the carbon brush and spring in the top of the cap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oddball Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 Backfired & thrown the timing out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 The condenser what did you replace it with? ie was it a new equivalent? People often carry around NOS condensers for emergencies. Sometimes they have up to half a dozen! When I have been given an opportunity to test these with a megger (& there is no other way to do it an ohmeter is no good) both NOS or used "but is a good one" have a deffect rate of about 75%. If you want me to test any or your rotor arm, send me an SAE Bear in mind a spark that you can see on a plug may not be happening when under compression when fitted in the engine. How old is the fuel, theses days it goes grotty quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeEnfield Posted January 21, 2007 Author Share Posted January 21, 2007 Hi Guys, Sorry for delay in replying, hadn't hit the 'notify'tab, after posting help, :oops2: Degsy, Distributor cap shows no obvious signs of tracking, and carbon brush ot top is free to move, also all other contacts in cap are clean. Tim (2) something to check, I guess,..............am going to look at timing today........... Clive, Fuel is now about 4 weeks old, in main tank, which is the one I'm, trying to run with. Condenser is a new one, fresh out of the box, from Bygone Bedford Bits, so should be the right one,.............certainly was the same as the one I took off. Just re-read your answer, it is a modern day one, not mil old stock. Appreciate the info re sparks and poss loss of same under compression, am going to try dribbling petrol down spark plug holes, replacing plugs and giving that a go,.............as well as double checking the timing. If I have no luck, will be in touch re the testing of my condensers. Again, Cheers for your replies, Guys. :thankyou: Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berni Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 as soon as russ gets a few minutes i'll get him to read the above & see if he has any more ideas. i know we had some new bits & 1 of them was faulty so even though we had replaced it it still didn't work, i can't remember what bit it was but russ had to take it off, send it back & the replacement worked fine. maybe a possibility? Berni Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeEnfield Posted January 21, 2007 Author Share Posted January 21, 2007 Cheers Berni. Oh well, off the get me hands dirty.......... :roll: Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Andy, Just read you message through again, and see you have no spark, have you actually checked there is power getting to the coil? Because it may be a fault in the ignition switch, which is not unknown with those CAV switchboards. If you have a meter, check the SW side of the coil, or use a test lamp. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeEnfield Posted January 21, 2007 Author Share Posted January 21, 2007 Richard, many thanks for your thoughts, I'd already wondered about that, myself, so have run a seperate lead from positive side of battery to coil, isolating switch. No difference........................ :? A recap of stuff tried today,..............petrol down plug holes,.....it fired on 3-4 and spluttered out. Making me think, OK, its used the fuel at plugs, as when I removed them they were not that wet,..................replaced then and wound her over, not firing at all,..........checked plugs, fuel there...............checked spark, in distributor, at points, a spark there on the low tension side,..........sparks at plugs against engine. Really got me foxed,......................if it had been someone else who said they'd driven it in, by now I'd have been doubting them................. To recap, I drove it off transporter into cover, a distance of approx 150 yards, then started it next day, moved 10 foot backwards, and ran out of juice. This was around 5 weeks ago..................... Frustration is not the word,...........here. Again, thanks for all replies. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Andy with your switching around of the tanks, is it possible that air is leaking in now round the tap? The other thing is, the good fuel is in both tanks in case there is some switching anomoly. I'm not sure whether you have an early model with a turn tap or pull out tap. (I had a problem on a pig that drove me mad for ages the fuel gauge measured the fuel in the tank you were not using. The Army upgraded my prototype to the pruduction plumbing arrangement but didn't changeover the wiring!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Andy with your switching around of the tanks, is it possible that air is leaking in now round the tap? The other thing is, the good fuel is in both tanks in case there is some switching anomoly. I'm not sure whether you have an early model with a turn tap or pull out tap. Andy (and Clive). Clive has a good point here re. fuel tap, I did discount it first as you said there was fuel in both tanks. To relate an experience of a MW I used to look after for a customer, he ran one tank dry and switched over, from then on had trouble. Eventually after checking everything, I used a vacuum pump and guage on the fuel line, engine side of tap and found that although the tap was switched to the full tank, it was drawing air on the empty tank. As you know, they are a push-pull tap with a cork inside, someone had soldered it all together in the past and it was impossible to renew the cork, so I fitted a 2-way lever tap from an Austin on there with no further trouble. Another thing is that you now say the plugs appear to be wetting so getting fuel, is it possible a bit of crap from the tank you emptied, has got into the carb and blocked a jet in the idling part. You should have a guaze in the pump and another in the carb banjo, but they are often missing. A modern inline disposable filter is a good idea, better than keep stripping a carb. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeEnfield Posted January 21, 2007 Author Share Posted January 21, 2007 Clive and Richard. Good fuel in both tanks, admitidly, only about 3 galls in passenger side, and that on top of stuff that was already there. Tap is push pull, Have had all jets out today, blown through clear. Gauze filters were found to be clean. Cheers Guys. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berni Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Hi Andy , It sounds like you have tried everything . What happens if you pour a little fuel down the carb and then turn her over ? If she start's then its fuel or lack of . Take the spark plug out of No 1 cylinder and then bring the piston to the top , check at the distributor to see if the rotor arm is at no 1. What sometimes happens is , the small drive cog at the bottom of the dizzy has a pin which locates the cog to the dizzy shaft , if that pin has snapped the cog will move but not the shaft in the dizzy ? Hope this helps . Cheers Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Clive and Richard. Good fuel in both tanks, admitidly, only about 3 galls in passenger side, and that on top of stuff that was already there. Tap is push pull, Have had all jets out today, blown through clear. Gauze filters were found to be clean. Cheers Guys. Andy Dumb question maybe - but have you tried by-passing the fuel tanks and change over switch by taking the pump feed from a jerry can temporarily?? A good way of proving out the tank change-over system is or isn't working as per Keweldes suggestion?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigval Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 hello just logged on my partners dad has a mw and he is hgv plant fitter he is the best i no he might b able to help will give him this web site add so he can join [/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTallMike Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Apologies if I've missed any previous mention of this: I'm not familiar with your carb. so it may not be relevant, but I've had problems with carb. float needle valves sticking either open, closed or partially open. If you've got fuel it's clearly not stuck closed but are you sure it's not stuck open and flooding. This is especially likely if a bit of crud has come through and got stuck when the fuel level ran low. It could equally be a worn needle valve but that's unlikely if it ran previously. All the best - Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Thinking of carb faults. I once had a float that sank! There was an ineffective bit of soldering on the float edge & fuel gradually seeped in. The engine would run ok for a while then flood. Took me ages to find that one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty Stubble Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 Not really much help in your current woes but we had Jolley Engineering make us a new electronic distributor for our MW which fits inside the old one and looks no different. This has made a huge difference to starting and general running. When you've discovered the problem consider making the change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeEnfield Posted January 27, 2007 Author Share Posted January 27, 2007 Cheers for all suggestions, All. Not been near terminal before tonight, to respond. Well, today, got her running,.........after checking/changing seemingly everything, without total sucsess, decided to bite the bullet and buy 6 new plugs. It started,...............and more importantly, ran....................... :banana: Now to sort out a bit of an air leak, on induction side,....causing her to pop and bang, a little; Then out and learn the joys of double declutching................. :-D ( looking for a few bits, but thats posted in 'Wanted' sec ) Monty Stubble,.........if you don't mind me asking, how much was the Jolley set up ?? Again, :thankyou: to all who have helped on this topic. Hope to see some of you about, this year. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted January 28, 2007 Share Posted January 28, 2007 if you don't mind me asking, how much was the Jolley set up ?? All kits seem to be about the same they went up in price this month :-( For a B60 when you add £6 p&p + VAT it was about £192 . But if you want your plugs to keep clean this is after 200 miles in a B60 which usually foul up in a matter of minutes. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/fv1620/Sparkplug01.jpg[/img] If you want not just cleaner plugs, but a smoother running & more efficient & reliable engine this is the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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