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LR Wolf TUL Soft Top help and advice


CharlieH

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Good evening,

 

Think i may be mad but thought I'd take the Land Rover plunge so...

 

Just taken delivery of a 90 ST Wolf direct from the MOD and from camp bastion, on first inspection full of sand, light surface rust Due to being in the desert but generally ok. It has no keys and as yet not running.

 

Who is the best person here to get advice and parts

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Regards

Charlie

Edited by CharlieH
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Post most questions here and someone will know the answer. When you say 'not yet running' is that due to mechanical reasons or just not tried to start it yet? If the military are still not fitting sterring locks a generic ignition switch will do nicley.

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Post most questions here and someone will know the answer. When you say 'not yet running' is that due to mechanical reasons or just not tried to start it yet? If the military are still not fitting sterring locks a generic ignition switch will do nicley.

 

The ignition is now out and batteries on charge although one looks like it's dead. Hoping to try to get her running this afternoon...after that I'll come back to you!

 

How easy are the 24v electrics to live with, other than availability and price?

Edited by CharlieH
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24 volt electrics are easy to deal with.

 

In all my experience people get themselves into more problems than is reasonable by trying to Mickey Mouse vehicles into partial 12 volt and partial 24 volt. I have been involved with two Land Rover 101 FCs that suffered that fate. In the end the cobbling of others had to be torn out and put back to original.

 

You are best to leave it "as manufactured" and not try to re invent the wheel.

 

My 2 cents worth

 

Robin

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Charlie,

 

by the sounds of it you are "new" to the military vehicle scene.

 

I could start of by saying that "an electrical system is just like a water system" bu I will make myself scream!

 

Patience is something that you will have to develop.

 

I'm a bit stumped for offering you advice about where to buy Wolf parts (as I live in Canada) but ebay in the UK seems to have bits around.

 

I would suggest speaking with a very nice gent Mr Phil Bashal down at Dunsfold Land Rover. He is a mine of information on anything military Land Rover related. I have met him several times and done business with him.

 

R

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Currently a lot of Land Rover dealers are refusing to sell 'military' parts to civvy owners....sad but true. There are ways around it of course :-|

 

I rebuilt mine quite a few years ago and most came from evil bay or Shows.

 

I've not struggled for much, alternators and windscreen wipers can be tricky.

 

Never had any issues with 24v, I just put in a dropper for radio and accessories.

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Thanks for the advice...I've been an admirer from a distance so I'm certainly new to ownership of MV so why not start at the deep end!

 

Having owned a fair few vehicles in my time I'm fairly familiar with the evilbay and in the short time I've had this one it does seem that a lot of bits are available...anyway should know by 4pm if it's going to start!

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Simple answer for 24 volt think 'Truck'. Most things are available, though may cost a bit more. Still far easier to live with 24 volt than try and convert. Check fuel and oil levels before starting! You have no idea what's in there or the crud it may have acumalated. Most parts such as fuel fliters etc are the same as civvy models. If the engine turns over and fires Whoppe! Switch stright off, change filters and oil then restart . Would be very wise to change cam belts as well. Not sure if the Wolf engine uses one, but Land Rover engines in genral are a bit notorious for running till the belt actually goes and causing a lot of headache. Good thing is not a bad job to do, and you can forget for 50,000 odd miles.

Quick check says the engine is a 300tdi. Having just done the cam belt on Number One Son's Discovery TDi 300, a piece off p**. Kit costs about £135 including all gaskest and new idlers.

Just asked son. Proper Land Rover cam kit was £120, though cheaper kits are available.

Edited by Tony B
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OK some good news...It looks like before someone in Afghanistan lost the keys a new 300TDI lump put in. It's now running and sounds lovely, fired straight away, no smoke.

 

BUT

Had to bypass the ignition as most of the switches and relays both in the cab and under the bonnet (in the black box) are missing.

 

Can anyone send a pic or layout for fuse box and the relays under the bonnet for a Wolf?

 

I'm guessing this is different as it's a 24v system OR is this the same as a standard 300 TDI

 

Thanks for your help in advance

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All sorted a very easy fix, amazing what a couple of fuses and a few relays can do. Started first time, no smoke, no odd noises and I may have been very fortunate as it looks like a new engine has been fitted, not even a reconditioned one but a shiny new one.

 

So next week steam clean to get rid of the sand and dirt and then an MOT.

 

DSC_0335.jpg

 

Landy.jpg

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I spoke to soon...not quite as easy a fix as first thought, electrics are playing up but getting there. Still hope to have it MOT'd on Monday and on the road for next weekend. Even then there will be still lots to do.

 

Before the service was tackled she was given a bit of a clean...top to bottom....

 

Roll Over!

 

cleaning.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

The veteran is now road legal...still a few teething problems, steering wobble on bumpy roads and window rattles but nothing I cant fix...I hope. Underneath the mismatched body panels the chassis and most of the mechanical bits look very new. I've so far managed to get a lot of the sand out but I still keep finding larger accumulations. The dash will have to come out at some point for a clean but otherwise I think it's in very good condition...Had a good outing this weekend in the sun and it's a joy to drive after the 90 2.5n/a

 

 

 

Veteran.jpg

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