Richard Farrant Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 (edited) What's a double flare please?? This picture should explain it to you. The Step 1 shows an adaptor, you would need this to do a double flare and follow up on Step 2 without adaptor. Double flare is essential where it is required, no compromising with brakes. Edited January 16, 2015 by Richard Farrant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Thank you Richard. Need adapters to do those I guess.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Thank you Richard. Need adapters to do those I guess.... Wayne, It does not mention adaptors on your tool instructions, but the box appears to have stowage positions for the adaptors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I have a tool like the one pictured (with adapters) but it's a pain to use, so I bought one of these: http://sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?gotonode=ViewProduct&method=mViewProduct&productid=10081&productdescription=&productcode=&category=6&catgroup=122&catmicrogroup=1087&analysiscode=&requiredresults=16 Much easier to use. Shop around and you should get one for a lot less money too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeePig Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 TI once had a Snap-On version with double flare adaptors, but was useless at doing good flares on steel Bundy or Cunifer. I had one as well, the alignment was poor when used with harder materials, was glad to see the back of it trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rampant rivet Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I have a tool like the one pictured (with adapters) but it's a pain to use, so I bought one of these: http://sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?gotonode=ViewProduct&method=mViewProduct&productid=10081&productdescription=&productcode=&category=6&catgroup=122&catmicrogroup=1087&analysiscode=&requiredresults=16 Much easier to use. Shop around and you should get one for a lot less money too. Yep I use one of those does what I need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 I was chatting with Clive recently and thought I would add something to my thread for others to comment also. A problem shared and all that! I noticed recently after running up the Humber and checking the plugs recently that the plugs in 1,2,&3 are all a little blackened and sooty looking. In contrast 4,5 &6 are all live new and wetted. When I took the 'Y' manifold off I noticed that the exhaust manifolds off 1-3 were dry and 4-6 wet with fuel. Clive suggested whipping of the cover on the carb and inspecting the accelerator diaphragm pumps /covers but before I do that has anyone had a similar episode with the Solex 40 NNIP twin carbs?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 3, 2015 Author Share Posted May 3, 2015 Well after obtaining some useful parts for the Piggy just after Christmas (Thanks to a dear friend) I have rebuilt the carb and sure enough an accelerator pump diaphragm was leaking........ Carb overhauled and no more flooding/ fouling plugs in three cylinders. Need to upload some images etc. Most recent problem was a gritty sounding gearbox? I dropped the gearbox drain plug, only to find lots of muddy slurry in there and a blocked sump of the drain plug. I had to remove the compressor for a better inspection and to overhaul it too. This is what I found in the compressor casing and the bowels of the gearbox. I am making a temporary cover plate for where the compressor fixes and wanted to know what best to flush the gearbox with that wont affect the bronze bearings and the oil seals etc. My first thought was kerosene or diesel mixed with some mineral engine oil? What would you guys suggest? Luckily the internals aren't showing any real corrosion. On a positive note the new downpipe and silencer are fitted after coating with high temperature black paint. More of a protection measure than correct detail as I had some to hand from refurbishing the BBQ. Ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 18, 2015 Author Share Posted June 18, 2015 Started to look at the braking system now, as even the handbrakes, which are cable and rod actuated didn't work. Not hard to see why? Master cylinders refurbished and re-sealed along with header reservoir. I hope the other brakes on the other three corners aren't as bad? Famous last words Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 Brakes spares now sorted. Can the seals and piston cups be bought at champ spares? Anyone know please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Try John Walker Looks like some useful bits you've got there Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger graystone Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 pastparts are good for seals 01284 750729 or they have a website Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 Try John Walker Looks like some useful bits you've got there Wayne Very useful parts Clive. Is John the Master Cylinder seals chap? Champ spares list them for ferrett and pig, but ill try all options Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 pastparts are good for seals 01284 750729 or they have a website Thanks Roger. I wonder if they are familiar with the Humbers brakes??? Do you know....?? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Is John the Master Cylinder seals chap? Yes Wayne, he may well be at Evesham he was last year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 21, 2015 Author Share Posted June 21, 2015 Fantastic. Thought it was. I removed a hub tonight and noticed the large hub nuts had been tightened with a drift before and not the proper box spanner. The tappet block should clean up okay with some TLC. I may need your help for the improvised hub oil seal tube for refitting. Hub was in good condition internally, thankfully with grease and oil very evident I'll get some photos uploaded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Hub was in good condition internally, thankfully with grease and oil very evident �� Grease & oil good. But there are some misunderstandings about grease v oil lubrication. The 1954 EMER states that after assembly of the hub "fill with oil" The 1956 amendment deleted "fill with oil" & substituted "pack with grease" Many Pigs in NI were fitted with hexagonal lubrication "nipples" on the hubs that unfortunately are perceived to be an invitation to squirt grease into the hub. Sometimes justified by quoting the 1956 amendment. But the 1960 User Handbook states that the hubs should be topped up with oil. The replacement of the brass plug screws by lubrication nipples was a matter of convenience for the more rapid injection of oil. The 1956 amendment was badly worded as it implied grease was the sole lubricant. The 1974 Servicing Schedule clarified the situation: "Hubs should be packed with grease on assembly and on periodic servicing should be topped up with oil in accordance with the instructions laid down in the User Handbook. The grease and oil specified are miscible." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FEC Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Really don't understand how this vehicle missed the mass re-purchase of Humbers that went on in the late mid 70's for units. Must have been well hidden. The cash being offered especially to farmers was obscene, even for total scrap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 I've never been able to find out what prices were actually paid, would be interested to find out if it was a fixed fee or varied with negotiation. Op Bubble demonstrated that it took twice as long to bring these Pigs into a serviceable condition than originally anticipated. There were 200 repurchased in 1972 to cover those undergoing Op Bracelet after which 80 still remained as Mk 1. I used to have a repurchased Mk 1 that served in NI that was sold off for £40 in 1967 and repurchased for an undisclosed amount in the 1972 repurchase scheme. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 Question for Clive and Richard perhaps. Is the Humber hub nut the same size as a Landrover one. Ie. 52mm Or does a large box spanner off another vehicle work?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Humber is bigger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 Humber is bigger What do you use Clive or have you got correct spanner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 I had a correct FV box spanner but I sold it recently, all part of the clear out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 (edited) I had a correct FV box spanner but I sold it recently, all part of the clear out. I missed a trick there then �� I have refurbished the first brakes tappet unit, and now working onto other side to repeat strip down of hub etc. Does anyone have the parts shown for a Humber compressor as it was seized or the PO engaged it and it went pop How lucky will I be to acquire a new compressor shaft and conrod tc../ Edited June 29, 2015 by Rover8FFR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 I missed a trick there then �� I have a device that was more effective than the proper thing, I have found a spare one I've put on your pile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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