question CCKW 352 - Crago Body Frame Removal

[Vulture]

Guys

 

I’m looking to remove the metal frames with wooden side panels/seats from the cargo back of my CCKW 352. Initial impression is that they haven’t been out for many many years. I’m thinking about squirting copious amounts of penetrating oil / WD40 down the frames as pre-cursor, and getting at least three people to heave / lever away simultaneously. I obviously want to avoid damaging the metal work, so am interested in any hints / tips you can share.

 

Kind regards all

 

Vulture

Edited September 14, 2011 by Vulture
To improve formating

[willysmb]

Heat !!! ... a small gas /propane flame gun will help to remove those troublesome nuts and bolts ...

 

get the nuts and bolts red hot and it will help to free them up..

 

ken

[bawtrylwt]

On mine somebody had screwed the rear reflector on with a long self tapper which had gone into the back upright so it wouldn't come off

[deadline]

I have no idea on what part you are trying to remove... "metal frames with wooden side panels/seats" ??????? A wooden cargo bed?

 

I understand there is a language barrier... but bhwaa????

 

It was mentioned to heat the bolts 'red hot' NO!!!!!!!!!

 

You will destroy the bolt's strength and most likely it will twist in two. Heat the NUT ONLY for no more than 10-15 seconds then wait for the heat to penetrate (about a minute) then turn the nut with a wrench.

 

I took apart complete composite and wooden beds and its not hard.

 

And WD-40 is a poor rust penetrant. KROIL is what you want. WD-40 displaces moisture... does nothing to free up rust.

[N.O.S.]

I have no idea on what part you are trying to remove... "metal frames with wooden side panels/seats" ??????? A wooden cargo bed?

 

I understand there is a language barrier... but bhwaa????

 

It was mentioned to heat the bolts 'red hot' NO!!!!!!!!!

 

You will destroy the bolt's strength and most likely it will twist in two. Heat the NUT ONLY for no more than 10-15 seconds then wait for the heat to penetrate (about a minute) then turn the nut with a wrench.

 

I took apart complete composite and wooden beds and its not hard.

 

And WD-40 is a poor rust penetrant. KROIL is what you want. WD-40 displaces moisture... does nothing to free up rust.

 

Deadline - if you read the post carefully it is quite apparent he's trying to remove the complete side assemblies from the bed, and the problem is pulling the steel uprights from the steel pockets on the cargo bed.

 

And what's with this KROIL? I thought you guys used peanut butter for pretty much everything over there

 

But you're quite right, there are some much better alternatives to WD40 over here - I was put onto a really good one but have forgotten the name of it now. Anyone care to suggest a product?

[Tony B]

Comma Frost bite, especially good on mixed materials. Burnt gear oil and disiel mix, found that by acident, lubricates and takes rust off.

[N.O.S.]

Once you've decided what penetrant to use (even plain diesel would work ok), I'd give them a really good soaking, then periodically whack the socket faces of each stanchion with a heavy rubber hammer or hammer and soft wood, including from inside the body, and ease sides up by levering with some 4 x 2 timber and a tall fulcrum inside the body to save damaging the wooden slats.

 

Just keep at it steadily and evenly, topping up the penetrant and whacking away and levering a little more until the last stubborn one gives up. Once on the move you may need to pull sides up and push down a few times to finally free them. Don't worry if it takes a few days - they'll surrender eventually.

[deadline]

Thanks for the clarification.. There was an Army Motors article about how to remove the stuck/frozen side racks. Basically you wrap a chain around the upright and use the tire jack.

 

I'll post pics of the issue this weekend.

[Vulture]

Guys

 

Thanks for the various ideas, I shall be trying them out next weekend, weather permitting.

 

Kind regards to all

 

Vulture