Catch 22 LBDR Posted September 9, 2011 Author Share Posted September 9, 2011 (edited) Started working on the rear left pillar base, I wasnt happy with my dodgy patch work, at least this way I can make it watertight before fitting. Hear you can see how i cut a nick in the sheet steel to make it easy to fold, then the joint was welded. Edited September 9, 2011 by Catch 22 LBDR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddy8men Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 a long hard road but worth it :thumbsup: all the best rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amphibi boy Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Ross, Why not make/buy a metal folder, it may just make life a little easier matey! :-D Cheers Shaun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted September 11, 2011 Author Share Posted September 11, 2011 O to dream Shaun, if i had the money there are plenty of tools i could/should invest in, if anything this thread will show how the job can be done with the min of resources and money:-D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FEC Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Looks fantastic, we had full panel shop facilities and would baulk at making the towers. The stores always won the toss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 Fitting the new left tower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 Hear you can see I removed the badly corroded top half of the rear cross-member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 You can see hear how the weld cooling has pulled in the tower at the top. woops! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 The first of much primmer to be applied. The seal edges are fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amphibi boy Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 She's starting to look good now Ross. So when is the test swim date! Cheers Shaun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 She's starting to look good now Ross. So when is the test swim date! Cheers Shaun Not for a while yet mate, will start on the right side next week, and i will be redoing the left side too, i dont like how it turned out, but learned some valuable lessons from it. Will make up the new side in a totally different way, watch out for the pics. Once i have the load bay squared away there are a few bits around the cab windows that need attention. I hope to have all the welding done by x-mass, then i can start working on the mechanical end of it. With a bit of luck i should have a nice driving but prob not finished Stolly by summer time. Then i have to source some swim gear. Lots of work ahead of me Shaun, lol. How are you getting on with yours mate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 Started work on the right side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amphibi boy Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Hi matey, Sorry I've not replied for a while, been so busy, work on house, and in my garage (new floor, ready for the stolly to come home, new doors, a wall etc) work at work, life in general etc etc, you know how it goes :yawn: Anyway, I fitted electronic ignition the other week, she runs sweet now. I'm just about to lift out the fuel tank, as I'm going to make a smaller one, I will never fill that huge thing up :wow: And so far had no issues, but will help prevent condensation, the inside of the original tank is like new, so I don't think it had any condensation issues before. Also I'm rebuilding the input shafts on my dowty jets, as the bearings were seized, I bought new bearings, o rings, but the tufnol washers were broke up and are unavailable, I'm having some made, and I will order some extra's. Also, my cargo door seals are watertight, but very perished, and I will need to do a little bit of surgery near the seal flange at some point, so I have 2 inner seals (new old stock) but no outer seals, so I'm also having a company quote me on making new sets, when they give me a price, if I have not fallen over I will let you know, and any others and get some made up. Your's is coming along nicely. Speak soon Shaun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 She's getting there, have almost finished the right side, just have to weld on the hinges and the bottom lip under the seal. once that's done its back over to the left side to re do it again, you wouldnt be leave the amount of welding rods I have gone through. Pics to follow. I wouldn't bother replacing the tank if its in good condition Shaun. Thanks for the support Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listerdiesel Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Lots of good work there! Could I ask a question? If the width of the Stalwart (Mk2) is 2.62metres or 8' 7", and the maximum road-going allowed width is 2.55metres or 8' 4", is that 3" difference something that can be taken off easily, or is it a major job? Looking at pictures, it seems that the body side hinges or the axle hub rings are the widest point, but it's difficult to judge by a picture, a tape measure or a dimensioned drawing would be better. This is Rick Salmon's Mk2 on Milweb: Presumable the mirrors are not included in the body width. Any info would be appreciated. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m109a3uk Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 I seem to remember that its the hubs that stick out the furthest but dont quote me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listerdiesel Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 If they are used for lifting slings, then that would make sense. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101 Ron Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 The body work on my MK2 limber appears to be much wider than the hubs. I think the track, tyre centre to tyre centre is 2 mtrs. The hinges for the side gates is the widest part. I think even if you removed the hinges and the brackets, you may be just very slightly over width. Thanks for the thread catch 22 as I am looking to do this soon to my stolly keep up the good work. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listerdiesel Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 I've just received my illustrated parts list of the Mk1, and those hubs have hub reduction built in, which gives a higher transmission speed but lower torque, and looking at a cross-sectional view, there's not a lot of width you can pare off as there is a shaft end and retaining nut underneath. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 The short ans is no.The hub houses a reduction gear system that consists of of a sun wheel and a number of planetary gears. I havent taken one apart yet but i have done all 4 hubs on my Ferret, which is similar. The hub cap is held on by a ring of bolts visible in your pic, and is made in such a way that the sun wheel gear is part of this. I am guessing now but judging by the shape of the hub cap there will be a stub axle with some sort of retaining nut sitting right out in the centre of the cap. so you couldnt even make one up without the flange. Next time im at the workshop i will take a look in the Manuel's for a diagram that i can scan and post up hear. As a lorry driver i have never driven an oversized vehicle in the UK, but if you check with VOSA it might only be a case of putting on extra warning plates or flashing orange lights, or maybe an escort. I hope this helps. Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listerdiesel Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 To further my knowledge of the type, I have bought the Bill Munro book, "Alvis Saracen Family" which arrived first thing this morning. So having read the book through ( I'm a fast reader!) and the Stalwart section twice, it seems that the Stalwart Mk1 width is 2.54m while the Mk2 is quoted at 2.62m. I can't see that the suspension or hubs have changed, but I may be missing something. My spares listing is for the Mk1 only, so I can't check and compare to the Mk2. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 Try using a straight edge from ur hub on each side to mark the ground, them measure the distance. If your suspension is set level ( the drive shafts are straight) it will be wider than if if it was set high. this can be changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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