Catch 22 LBDR Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 I finaly started to restore one of my stollys this year, so i thought i would start a thread and post my progress. Watch this space for updates. Ross:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 (edited) Hear is an idea what i have ahead of me!!! Edited August 27, 2011 by Catch 22 LBDR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 The first job was to get her running so i could move her into a shed, To do this i had to rewire the engine and bypass all the electrics and bypass the fuel system using a boat petrol tank plumbed straght into the carb. Surprisingly she started:D, however bleeding the clutch took a lot longer, two days longer, the system had to be pressurised to get the air out.:mad: Finally, with the old man in the engine bay acting as the accelerator we got her moving, no brakes, but the hand brake works. Now that its in the shed the first job is to get her weather proofed, so time to cut out all the rust and replace with new steel. This should be interesting as i only have an arc welder and im not that good:cool2:. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 Decided to start by replacing the hole left side as there are bad holes up both sids. The tool bin, there is meant to be a bottom in this:eek: Filled a wheelbarrow with the rust off one side. Hear is the first bit removed ready to be replaced. Some new bits tacked in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Impressive project:wow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero-Five-Two Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 A stick welder is OK in a good pair of hands, and you seem to be doing alright so far. Good start, nice pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willyslancs Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 good luck with the project mate .these two are near me ,there is a rally where they are this coming weekend will see if they are still there(not moved for a few years )................ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 A stick welder is OK in a good pair of hands, and you seem to be doing alright so far. Good start, nice pictures Its prob a sin in some peoples eyes, but im going to use filler (prob liquid mettle) on the outside, and weld it on the inside, thus avoiding any pin-prick holes when she swims. My nice neat welds wont be seen under the floor anyway:whistle:. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 good luck with the project mate .these two are near me ,there is a rally where they are this coming weekend will see if they are still there(not moved for a few years )................ Would love one of those covers:D, only have use of the shed till xmass so i need to have her painted and weather proof by then. Talking of covers does anyone know what the proper load bay cover is made from, canvas or pvc, and its dimensions? will have to get one made i think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willyslancs Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Would love one of those covers:D, only have use of the shed till xmass so i need to have her painted and weather proof by then. Talking of covers does anyone know what the proper load bay cover is made from, canvas or pvc, and its dimensions? will have to get one made i think. they look a little like tents mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amphibi boy Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 They are addictive once you start, my friend is also doing the same restoration, his was sat outside for 12 or so years. It's completely rotten, but he is doing a amazing job. The early covers were canvas, then they went to a plastic type, I prefer the canvas type, I am going to make one myself soon, but the covers only covered the load bay, not the rear area above the rad fan outlet, or the grills at rear of cab. So if outside in rain the hull will still fill up. :mad: So if it's parked outside you will need a bigger cover to put completely over it, as in the earlier photos posted. Anyway good luck, will be watching your progress, keep smiling when it feels never-ending. :-D Cheers Shaun P.m. Me with contact details if you want a copy of the canvas cover illustration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Impressive project, I take my hat off to you. My humble opinion. Buy a MIG welder and do a proper job and dont play around with sealers. The whole unit is a structure and doing and by not doing full welds I think you take away from that. Any flex may make the sealer come out eventually. Your also taking some of the value out, as any purchaser down the road likely will be reluctant to touch a bodge repaired or one that looks that way. My 2 cents worth. Its your truck to enjoy Robin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 Impressive project, I take my hat off to you. My humble opinion. Buy a MIG welder and do a proper job and dont play around with sealers. The whole unit is a structure and doing and by not doing full welds I think you take away from that. Any flex may make the sealer come out eventually. Your also taking some of the value out, as any purchaser down the road likely will be reluctant to touch a bodge repaired or one that looks that way. My 2 cents worth. Its your truck to enjoy Robin Mig is never as strong as arc, ya dont get the penetration with mig, not to mention the cost of the unit its self. if i was spending that kind of money i would gas weld it, thats how it was welded originally. Trust me it wont be a bodge job, ya wont even nottice when its finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 (edited) so far so good Edited August 1, 2011 by Catch 22 LBDR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 Sir, you obviously have strong beliefs about welding. As a welder I have strong experiences. Good luck R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 Sir, you obviously have strong beliefs about welding. As a welder I have strong experiences. Good luck R Sorry, Didnt mean to thread on ur toes, advice is always welcome. bottom line is i dont have a mig plant, or gas, got to make do with what i have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 There was NO offence taken, I appreciate you are working with what you have. Talk to you welding supplier for careful selection of the appropriate welding rod and size, some are better than others. I think you chaps in Europe have changed the designations of electrodes but from my point of view a 3/32nd E 7018 or E 7014 in some areas using step welding technique will have best results for minimal clean up, good penetration and ease of welding and structural strength. Am very interested to see how you make out. There are others here from the UK who may also chime in with their experiences of stick welding such gauges and types of material. Robin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 (edited) Have bean working hard on the Stolly the last few weeks but getting nowhere fast. Having a few probs with the welding, or rather, the steel im using. The steel came with the vehicle when i bought it and had bean folded nicely already, at first i thought i was going to have to eat some humble pie for Robin, till i did a few practice runs on a bit of mild steel. After consulting a few other people about it they thought it might be Corten steel and the primer that was already on it was very like Galvfroid, (forgive me if im spelling all this wrong) Bottom line, its a Git to weld.:mad:. So... Where does that leave me. I have replaced and welded the hole left side and where the welds are strong, (and when ground down and tided up) look good, but not water tight. Originally i was going to use filler on the out side but have since bean talked out of that. If push comes to shove I will cut it all out and start again with new mild steel:wow:. Not looking forward to that. (Any ideas people?) But its not all bad news:-D, Having hit a bit of a wall there I decided to move on to the Rear right side, the exhaust housing. After studding my one (and heard all the stories about how hot it gets) and seen how badly it rotted, the decision was made to cut it off completely and start from scratch using heaver steel. So far this is going well. pics to follow. The exhaust was well rotted away also so i will fabricate one using the parts that are remaining. My aim with this hole area is to make it last, hence the heaver steel in the housing, but the main reason for the bad rot is the heat. so i need to keep it away from the outer shell. The plan hear will be to make the exhaust out of heaver steel too, and rap it in exhaust tape, I may also line the inside of the box with some sort of heat resistant material. (What do you guys think?) Edited August 8, 2011 by Catch 22 LBDR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Having had a minor fire on the steel work that surrounds the exhaust tail pipes I know what you mean about heat. I would say that perhaps if you were to make an improvement that isnt orginal ten think about ceramic coating them. Sorry to hear about the welding woes. Speak to any good supplying about joining Corten to mild steel, I can see your problem. I will make an enquiry as well for you. You will never have to eat humble pie on my behalf, you have real balls doing the restoration, so relax. Robin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Another restoration project thread to suscribe to..... The other problem with liquid metal is that it is a bugger to sand back as I did that years ago as a kid. In areas you want to check the welds for pinholes you can: 1. You could use a penetrant test which should be in kit form. http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?16151-Ndt 2. You can do the same thing with a bit of diesel on the inside on a wet rag, let it sit and see if you get wet spots on the other side. Preferably better if there is a fine layer of dust on the outside Best of luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 (edited) Having had a minor fire on the steel work that surrounds the exhaust tail pipes I know what you mean about heat. I would say that perhaps if you were to make an improvement that isnt orginal ten think about ceramic coating them. Sorry to hear about the welding woes. Speak to any good supplying about joining Corten to mild steel, I can see your problem. I will make an enquiry as well for you. You will never have to eat humble pie on my behalf, you have real balls doing the restoration, so relax. Robin Im guessing I would have to use Corten rods and i bet there not cheep:undecided:. For the time being Im going to work on the right side but get new mild steel folded for it, Im also thinking of going slightly heaver there too, just for ease of welding, maybe 3mm. I never heard of Ceramic exhaust coating before so i looked it up on line, it looks great but no one is doing it hear, is it easy to get in the UK? Edited August 8, 2011 by Catch 22 LBDR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 After consulting a few other people about it they thought it might be Corten steel and the primer that was already on it was very like Galvfroid, (forgive me if im spelling all this wrong) Bottom line, its a Git to weld.:mad:. I had never heard of Corten steel, so had me curious but it seems to be more of an architectural steel and promotes a oxidised surface for sculptures. COR-TEN from what I been reading is going to be a real problem with welding and more so that it will cause anything attached to it to corrode so material welded to and any bolts that pass through it. I hope it isnt that steel. Best of luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 I had never heard of Corten steel, so had me curious but it seems to be more of an architectural steel and promotes a oxidised surface for sculptures. COR-TEN from what I been reading is going to be a real problem with welding and more so that it will cause anything attached to it to corrode so material welded to and any bolts that pass through it. I hope it isnt that steel. Best of luck I have bean told its used in the manufacture of shipping containers, dont know if thats true, but, the guy i bought the Stollys off did own a lot of containers and is in the shipping business. So maybe it was steel he had for patching them, eater way i think it will have to go:cry:. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddy8men Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 corten steel is often used for boat building so although it's a buggar to weld you know it won't rot the same as mild. good luck with the resto. rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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