Catch 22 LBDR Posted November 25, 2011 Author Share Posted November 25, 2011 I see you are using a stick (arc) welder now on the heavier cab area. What rod are you using? R If you take a look at the start of this thread you will see a lot of chat about the welding, its all bean done with stick. I'm using Overcord 'z' rods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted November 25, 2011 Author Share Posted November 25, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted December 9, 2011 Author Share Posted December 9, 2011 Lots of small things going on since my last post, not much point in taking pics as its hard to see the changes, 4 of the 5 windows have bean replaced, just one left to make and fit. refitted the cab back, header tank and left tower top (tool bin). Had lots of trouble fitting the seal's. Can anyone tell me what's the purpose of the inside seal on the inner double seal (hull seal). because the old seal's were so badly miss-shapen i couldn't get them back on. in the end i left out the inner part, the seal seams to work fine without it, of course i wont know for sure till she goes in the water:whistle: . I just got my new cargo canvas cover for the load bay, cant wait to fit it. Does anyone know what the lip's are for that are on the tower inner walls and inside of the tail gate, I'm guessing they are for some sort of cover but i cant be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amphibi boy Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Hi Ross, I've not been on here for a while now, been so busy at work, in house and with my stolly, sorting out the brakes, changing all the oils etc. As for the seals, the outer one on the doors is just single, the inner one on hull, has two parts, the small piece that goes inside is a strengthener piece, as in service the seals were found to be a little leaky! But also that was with the full load being carried, So that was the modification, some of the older ones were later retrofitted, that also could be down to user abuse and lack off maintenance, ideally the trucks should be parked with doors open and powder applied to the seals, (in an ideal world) The biggest problem is with age, as the doors are always closed the seals go hard and perish in the squashed position. Mine have started to go on the hull side, the door sides are perfect, I have some new ones to fit next.I think for normal use it should be fine, I will rub mine with vasaline. also the steel inner clamps rust, as the seals have open ends so any water going in, just stays there, when I replace mine, if they are rotten I will make new ones from stainless. Where did you get the load cover from? Did you have it made from the plans I sent you? Hopefully we are having some made to original spec, stolly's just look so much better with the cover fitted. Cheers matey Shaun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 (edited) Hi Shaun, yes i used the drawings you sent me to make the cover but i made a few small changes. first i went for canvas instead of PVC. I find PVC tends to go brittle with age where canvas can be treated, and i love the smell of canvas:nut:. The company i used didnt have the right size eyes so i had to go a bit smaller but i dont see that as a big prob. It was also made from 3 sections instead of 4, this was due to the width of the roles and was cheaper to make due to less labour. I haven't had a chance to fit it yet so i dont know how how it fits or looks so watch this space:-D As for the seals, I had to replace lots of bits of the steel clamps and I am going to pack the ends of the seals with black silicon to stop the water getting in. The seals are in good condition, they are just badly misshapen. The vasaline is a good idea, thanks Shaun. Edited December 12, 2011 by Catch 22 LBDR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted December 15, 2011 Author Share Posted December 15, 2011 Last post of the year! Happy Christmas every one and thanks for following, see ya next year, early next year:nut:. Regards Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjrespect Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 just been through this whole thread all i can say is well done hopefully i will be doing this soon once a stolly is found Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 Welcome back people, hope all was well over the festive season. It was back to the grind stone and knee deep in Stolly guts again this week for me. First off was the exhaust fitment, needless to say this didnt go on without a fight. The exhaust has to be fitted in 3 parts, 1 the silencers, 2 the curved section that exit's through the hull, 3 a short part that joins them together. The first prob i had was once the curved section was connected to the engine the 4 bolt holes didn't line up. Even if it did line up it was still a good 1/4 inch out from the hull and all 4 bolt holes had been helly-coile before. I didn't fancy making up a new exhaust section or trusting the botched holes so the decision was made to weld it in place, (not the first Stolly i saw done this way). The rest was more awkward and time consuming than anything else. Also done this week was the clutch Master and slave cylinder refurbishment and re-fitment, sounds easy but when you see where Alvis put the master cylinder you will know its not. The pipe joining the two is in 3 parts, two steel lengths with a short rubber bit at the gearbox end, one of the steel lengths had to be replaced as it was damaged when removing the master cylinder, I got a flexible hose made up for the job, it was much easer to fit than a steel one. I wish I had got the hole thing made in flexible hose because the steel end took me 3hrs to wriggle into place. But its all back in place now, ready for OIL (not brake fluid) and bleeding. Also done this week was the removal and refurbishment of the swim gear linkages at the rear of the vehicle. Pics to follow:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Good effort mate and well done. Interesting that the brakes use oil rather than brake fluid same as cvrt.. PO had used brake fluid in main brakes on my cvrt and they were shot - seals so swollen i had to use stilson to extract the pistons and then replace both the pistons and the seals. Gave up completely on the master cylinder in the end and fitted a new one - so be warned dont use brake fluid..! Scary thing was vehicle had been used regularly on road in this state... Bizarrely the steering brakes were fine. Looking forward to more updates Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 (edited) Removed the brake master cylinder ready for its overhaul, Cant get the parts through the regular military supplyers so I'm going to try giving the part number to some civilian company's and see if they can come up with anything.:-\. Anyone got any other ideas, (other than getting a new unit)? Edited January 12, 2012 by Catch 22 LBDR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerrykins Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Get them reworked by Past Parts they re-sleeve them with Stainless steel. I've not used them but they're highly regarded. http://www.pastparts.co.uk/popular_products.htm. Give 'em a buzz and discuss your reqts, they know their game. Regards Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted January 13, 2012 Author Share Posted January 13, 2012 Get them reworked by Past Parts they re-sleeve them with Stainless steel. I've not used them but they're highly regarded. http://www.pastparts.co.uk/popular_products.htm. Give 'em a buzz and discuss your reqts, they know their game. Regards Jerry Have used them before and I will give them a call, thanks. Hopefully all I will need are the rubbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amphibi boy Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Hi Ross, been a while, been so busy. Sounds like your having the stolly fun times now, you have to learn to bend in all directions, When working in and around the engine compartment, tie the spanner to your wrist, then "when" you drop one, it's easily retrieved! As for the brake oil, it's LHM fluid, nothing else, as said by the other chap, the seals expand with brake fluid and are cream crackered! Keep having fun, cheers Shaun P.s. My hydraulic and fuel tank are out, for a bit of maintenance and clean up of hull parts, luckily I took it out, there is some old wire wrapped round one of the handbrake drums. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 This week I fitted the front hitch, had to cut off the old flattened out wash board hinges first then prime the area and fit the already sandblasted and painted part.Then I had to cut off and weld on new rear light drain pipes. I also spent a full day getting the rear door to open and close properly:mad:. Started fitting the swim steering linkages but got stumped by the one under the left pillar, it is fouling on the header tank pipes. Its not hard to fix, just a lot of work, will prob have to remove the tool bin off the left pillar. Would also like to replace two parts: One Fork end, 99-866-0396. Bell crank, 99-865-9013. anyone got one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 This week I Removed and replaced the front left side light housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share Posted February 11, 2012 Rear bulkhead and top bar fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 The progress so far..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 Sometimes it's hard to see the end, or the work that goes in to it. Sanding the inside of the cab this week, it takes ages, moving all the wiring and boxes out of the way to get at the rust underneath. Once its primed and painted it will look great, but that only takes a few hours. Had to cut out and weld in a new right hand side light housing too, it wasn't as bad as the left but worth replacing all the same. A little concerned about all the box sections and areas I cant get at to sand, I might wax-oil these areas at a latter stage.Also not looking forward to sorting out the wiring, its a mess:nut:. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 (edited) Got an in-service picture of my stolly. I cant post it up yet till I sort out the copy right. She use to be an UBRE, probably part of a life extension program. Am well pleased:D. Almost forgot to say,I found an army issue tin opener in the belly of the beast, not the find of the year, (ie the legendary working service revolver under the engine of a Chieftain) but it is dated 1961 (or 81, it's hard to read) and stamped with the crows foot. It's sad but I got excitted:rotfl:. Edited February 17, 2012 by Catch 22 LBDR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101 Ron Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 (edited) Sometimes it's hard to see the end, or the work that goes in to it. Sanding the inside of the cab this week, it takes ages, moving all the wiring and boxes out of the way to get at the rust underneath. Once its primed and painted it will look great, but that only takes a few hours. Had to cut out and weld in a new right hand side light housing too, it wasn't as bad as the left but worth replacing all the same. A little concerned about all the box sections and areas I cant get at to sand, I might wax-oil these areas at a latter stage.Also not looking forward to sorting out the wiring, its a mess:nut:. I am currently trying to do this with my stalwart. I have limited time to work on it so progress is slow. My stalwart has many coats of paint and much corrosion, but luckly it appears I will not need to replace plates in the cabin, but the windscreen glass will have to come out at some stage to treat the rust and re water proof. I use a needle gun, while it does not leave the smoothest of sufaces to paint on , it does move the rust and provides the new paint with a grip. I find the needle gun is reaching all the important places with only a few missing out. Every thing I remove a plate , or cover on my stalwart I find more and more work........good luck and thanks for showing your work and giving me more incentive to work on mine. Ron Edited February 18, 2012 by 101 Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 Thanks for the support Ron. will put a needle gun on my wish list:D. Under a bit of pressure at the moment, the Stolly resides in my brothers shed and he needs it out ASAP. They all seam to rot in the same places, would you like me to point out the worst parts on mine so you know where to look, or are you pretty much on top of it. Also do you have any pics???? Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101 Ron Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 (edited) Go though the pages on this site......it has turned into my restoration thread..........you should be able to acess it.http://www.aulro.com/afvb/fcs-military-variations/118657-ultimate-fc.html.My progress has been slow, but steady.I have not touched any of the rear body yet and this is where most of the rust is.(under tool box and exhaust/ plate above wheels too)Windows,very front quarters near parking lights, support bars for floor plates, sides of cabin under windows and triangular support pieces behind battery between the cabin and cargo area above wheels are the areas in the cabin.I am trying to currently needle gun the worse of the flaking paint around the area between the cabin and the cargo area around the fire extingisher system etc.(been using a vacuum cleaner to suck up as much as the paint flakes as possible.)I need to leave my stalwart mobile as I cannot work on it inside the building it is stored in.It appears to be good mechanically .Get the Jolley electronic ignition, it made a huge difference to mine.Needle guns in this country can be expensive, the cheapest option is to buy a air chisel at $40 and then find a tool shop which sells a needling tool attachment for a air chisel for $40 making $80 dollars in total.To buy the dedicated needling tool would cost me $250 dollars.The needling tool works well on the stalwart, but is extremely nosiey and you need to be about 400mtrs away from anyone. Im planing when I find the money to purchase another 24volt bilge pump while the cabin plates are out to replace the hand pump and place it between the parking brake drums as the stalwart (mine has the crane) appears to be nose down on both land and water. Removing the hand pump would make access to the front of the hull easier too.RonPS google You tube.... Alvis Stalwart Nowra and my photo bucket site which ishttp://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/#!cpZZ16QQtppZZ16 Edited February 18, 2012 by 101 Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 Hi Ron, had a look at the pics of your stolly, you seam to know all the hot spots to look for, and it look's like you might get away with cutting out the rot and weld in new steel. I don't know if your a welder or not, but I found it hard to weld to the old steel. there is much chat about this at the start of this thread. If there is any thing I might be able to help with please ask, had some great input from other members hear too. Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101 Ron Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 I am tradesman qualified MIG,TIG,Stick.....shouldnt be a problem for me and I have a good MIG. Just time poor to do the work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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