airportable Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Hi Wayne, put a comment on my restoration blog re. my Airportable about these switches. Were playing me up big time regards the fuel sender working intermitant. Turned out the internal spring on the switch was either corroded and/or weak. Contact made when the plunger is out. Just a thought as they are a ... to get to when fitted in situ. Replaced and prob. solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 Cheers for that. I recall that note and hence why I will do a test first before reassembly in-situ. Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 Well I think I got a good purchase as they don't come up very often. I really wanted this so the truck looks correct, even if it isn't plumbed in from day one. Out of a S3 3/4 Ton winterised so correct kit. Any comments please as bought off FleBay for under £60. Which I think is okay. Other missing items are available and included, but not in shot. At least winterised will look winterised Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Good buy !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 Good buy !! I did think I did okay Tony. A bit of a spruce up and all will look the part. One of my windscreen blower waves had rotten a lot, but the other was serviceable. I spotted one in the image so at least now a pair. possibly 3. also door tops in image so they can be created if a copy needed. I just need the other junction for the outlet off the thermostat housing and I think I am there with all the bits. Will follow the routing off the images you loaned Disco Daves site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 A massive thank you to someone is owed as I collected these today. Merry Christmas to ME! Does anyone know what the tubular rod with flat ends is for as not seen in a lightweight before. Also the fan on the heater is 12v not 24v, but I guess I could fit a step down relay from 24v to 12v. Also does anyone know how these were switched as the wiring is not genuine to the fan I believe, so that needs to be corrected. However as a collection of parts for an Arctic Heater...........Very Nice Indeed :shock: One of the dispersal spiral wound hoses is damaged and squashed, but appears to be a thin 'Tin' foil wound paper tube of sorts. Is there a modern equivalent still out there to match anyone???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 More Pics Heater pipes take off as per Disco Daves example Curious as to the 2 possible take off water pipe options on the flow cycle, which would be 12v and which 24v as suspect they standard alternator position on the 12v Lightweight would require the straight out coupling and the 24v as per the image above as only needs to clear belt and idler pulley??????? Any Ideas Tony?? Anyone?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 Tony I have just checked the Blueprint Drawing and the side elevation seems to suggest an outward and down part, with a hose elbow. Then a sleeve coupling and then a long length of tubing as the attached. This would suggest that the arrangement I have stacked is more likely, but rather than a long snaking hose from this is is done in a more directional manner....... Thoughts matey .......It also shows the vertical rod we mused over earlier with a dotted line and note.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 This bit was straight forward The hoses that came with Arctic heater and the blueprint suggest that this could be applicable as a detail?? I was stripping the cab Smiths flat heater as the case is like a T Bag and wondered if this rheostat was still available to buy. 24v. I acquired a 24v smiths heater motor for very little money only to see that case is longer and fan runs in the opposite direction. Can anyone trace what vehicle the newer motor is for. It is NOS and supposedly for a Land Rover, but may now be incorrect I think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 Nice when bits are carefully made good and then spend some time on a shelf in the house for safe keeping. Also got stuck into stripping back down after house move to get cracking jobs tackled recently; 1. Complete strip down on top vent panel. 2. Top coat throttle linkages, brackets and oil bath housing and support in satin black. 3. Reassemble fuel change over assembly. 4. Remove layshaft and output shaft from gearbox to schange bell hosuing after breaking up as a result of seized clutch to flywheel. 5. Remove rear body panels 6. remove and strip down tailgate assembly to allow galv parts to be blasted and epoxy primed / top coated. 7. Sort out all old scrap from old rotten chassis etc. 8. Strip windscreen and remove old damaged glass panels. Windscreen to be blasted and epoxy primed. 9. Remove cargo lashing down point, cables and fittings from rear tub. 10. Start to burn off residue from old winterised material and Evo Stick adhesive inside of tub. Retain front brackets from old S3 chassis for replacement chassis to allow flexible brake lines to be adjusted. I will take some more photos of the above progress to add a visual diary of what took place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 Started the numbing task of taking back paint and removing the dreaded insulation sheet from the tub. One attempt was blow torching it off using moderate controlled heat. However on the seat base a warm air gun on the back face seemed to warm the adhesive enough to make it go tacky again and then peel off! That only worked where there were large pieces intact. I did uncover some unit markings on the rear nearside end panel. Also uncovered the data plates on the drivers side seat base. After some rubbing and rubbing some more, eventually got the adhesive off. The rear tailgate was covered in a rubber material I guess to stop trips and slips etc. The hole in the cover I assume would or should have a grommet or cover plate? I need to crack on with the engine and first I need to replace the bellhousing crossmember that sits too high for an S3. I carefully cut out the proper one from my rotten chassis. It needs some plating, but is serviceable. Picture of midification needed for brake lines at front. The seatbase has been hacked to no doubts remove the gearbox at some point. Which is bonkers as the S3 Chassis had a removeable gearbox cross member support to prevent this lazy S2 hatchet job. Question is can such a cut be carefully welded. I would say so!??? Also the seatbase shows where the entry point is for the hot water return via the valve set. Does anyone with winterised knowledge know what rubber boot would have been used to seal between orifice in seatbase and hose??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 Spot the deliberate mistake in this Photo...... Oops! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 (edited) A very good friend from the forum with a VERY NICE collection offered some old spares that were serviceable for my winterised lightweight. Very nice as the spare heater has a 24v Blower and the correct electrics. My modified to 12v did not and had the screening box omitted. One part handed over was a new back plate still all wrapped up. Upon closer inspection is has two additional outlets of a slightly larger diameter. I am intrigued to know if this was used in another Land Rover. Possibly a 101????? Any ideas please.......... Edited May 19, 2012 by Rover8FFR Typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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