fv1609 Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Wayne just for removing oil & muck, I find paint brush cleaner is pretty good & just rinse off with water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangie Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 I usually give the stuff a good soaking in paraffin first to soften everything up, followed by a blast from the pressure washer with a dilute solution of TFR (traffic film remover) fed in and a final rinse-off after. Great effect, almost like the stuff was steeped in fairy liquid and boiling water for an hour, squeaky clean One of my mates has the luxury of a hot pressure washer/steam lance. By hell that shifts stuff too! So quick! Bit of a scuttle taking stuff over to him though..... Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 (edited) Dear All thank you for the 3 alternatives that you have personally tested. I have access to a 'cold' pressure washer and hot soapy water so a couple of the above options seem the easiest. Thanks again. I shall take some pics once sprussed up! Clive should I do anything special in generator is still attached or best to remove???? Just a thought Edited February 3, 2012 by Rover8FFR Typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Wayne the No.10 is waterproofed as the slip ring end is in a waterproof enclosure. All the heat sink & diodes etc are allowed to get wet & the paint serves as insulation not just for preservation. But if you are going to use strong chemicals best to remove it but brush cleaner then water you should be ok provided nobody has poked around inside the slip ring enclosure & failed to follow the re-sealing procedures on re-assembling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 Wayne the No.10 is waterproofed as the slip ring end is in a waterproof enclosure. All the heat sink & diodes etc are allowed to get wet & the paint serves as insulation not just for preservation. But if you are going to use strong chemicals best to remove it but brush cleaner then water you should be ok provided nobody has poked around inside the slip ring enclosure & failed to follow the re-sealing procedures on re-assembling. The paint looks unmollested and in sync with the engine coating so guess not been tampered with. If I am in any doubt I will remove No10. Thanks for reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 I think I got carried away with this item :shocked::shocked::cheesy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 Does anyone have details of the Unitary Cage for a lightweight......The images in Mark Cook's book are great and sort of spell it out, but they are external images only and ideally I need the user handbook for this item to help put the bits together properly. Cheers :nut: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike65 Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Wayne You have definitelt over done the fuel tap, unless you are going to bling it up. Unitary table should end up something like this http://forum.militarylightweight.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=175 Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Bling it Up.........It's Ex 29 Cdo......so more like smash it up!!!! That link is useful and has been suggested on another forum thread. I can suss out the externals, but was hoping for a bit more on the inside with battery trays and the like. Cable connection and all that stuff...... It may be an IKEA wardrobe without destructions......Done a few of those over the years......:nut::nut::nut::nut: Thanks for the help though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike65 Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Tinweasel (Tinweasle) is on here and EMLRA, from time to time. So you could try contacting him to see if he still has it and get you more detail. Looking at the pictures again you may have a few to many bits. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Yep the bits too many I sussed, but wanted tobe 110% sure, so part of the puzzle........... I believe that I have 1 x 3/4 unitary cage installs with one base port/ battery cover missing. Once I get a proper build I wil offer up the spares........... Some already spotted and being sold..........so contact important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 I was stripping one of the wings today to remove all ancills and clips etc and front headlight section. Whilst my son was having a nap i started to clean up the 'rest' coaxial supports for the clansman leads that are fitted inside the engine bay inner wings. I noticed some yellow paint that is over the DBG so not primer and also I noted some also on the wing top when doing some sanding between the ATU position and headlight.... Does anyone have any ideas what it would have been for. Looks to have been hand painted??????? The coaxial socket came up a treat with some fine wire wool and all krap and paint was easily removed to reveal markings. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 Also I know I have been told these are waterproofed, but has anyone ever cleaned up one of these before please? :-| Want to clean before it is possible to receive more paint. I was thinking Sugar Soap! Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike65 Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Wayne That cable rest is not Clansman, wrong connector type. That be the connector for Larkspur cables. Only know this as some kind person told me. As I acquired some wings of a late 109 which had some. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 You sure have a collection of parts there! I have here a started thread on the URS with a few detail pics of the internal battery stowage trays etc. battery connection leads etc. and a few other pics. I have not updated for some time, I must as the unit is now out of the Landi. Too dark now for good pics. Next chance Fri., just post what detail you want first and I will do my best as time/light allows. Sorry dont know how to add link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 Wayne That cable rest is not Clansman, wrong connector type. That be the connector for Larkspur cables. Only know this as some kind person told me. As I acquired some wings of a late 109 which had some. Mike Of course......It has both......Larkspur in engine bay and Clansman in wingtop locker.......... Sorry for error and thanks for clarification.....Feel very silly now :red: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 You sure have a collection of parts there!I have here a started thread on the URS with a few detail pics of the internal battery stowage trays etc. battery connection leads etc. and a few other pics. I have not updated for some time, I must as the unit is now out of the Landi. Too dark now for good pics. Next chance Fri., just post what detail you want first and I will do my best as time/light allows. Sorry dont know how to add link. Cheers mate. Its basically the internal views for the trays and battery tubs et, etc, etc........ I have the complete base, but all parts are not fitted completely inside and loose, so wanted to check to be sure! The image in Mark Cooks book and another lead from Mike is great for externals.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Pic. of internal wiring and basic wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Also I know I have been told these are waterproofed, but has anyone ever cleaned up one of these before please? :-| Want to clean before it is possible to receive more paint. I was thinking Sugar Soap! Wayne the slip ring end (ie where the brushes are) is indeed waterproof & the paint itself acts as an insulator for the diodes etc. Before wetting it in anyway are you sure that the slip ring housing has not been tampered with? If it has been it may no longer be waterproof as it is unlikely a meddler has followed the waterproofing procedures for re-assembly. I would use Gunk, white spirit or brush cleaner to get the greasy muck off then washing up liquid & hot water. Normally repainting is done before assembling it after a repair & that would be black, heat resisting. I suppose you want to paint it Sky Blue again, but black would be nice. It is unusual to see a black one. When someone tells you sorry mate it should be "Duck Egg Blue" you can point out that being painted in H1/8010-99-220-2046 indicates that it has been repaired by REME in accordance with EMER POWER W104/13 Field & Base Repairs Sections 11 & 19 complying with the requirements in EMER WORKSHOPS N251:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Oooo like the sound of that...... Black it will be and I had better learn that reply sentance off by heart. The slip ring end and screw heads / paint suggest not opened up......I hope. I used sugar soap and that worked well. Would REME have painted over data plate???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Pic. of internal wiring and basic wiring. Very Helpful and thanks Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Would REME have painted over data plate???? As a general principle I don't think they should as you need to identify an item correctly from a stores accounting point of view. But most of us would be able to identify it as a No.10 & to the trained eye will be able to identify whether it a Mk 2 or Mk 3 (early, mid or late) by the size of the auxiliary diodes, their position & the general configuration of heatsinks. If you show me a rear shot I will identify yours. (Humorists need not respond:cheesy:) Having said that the ones I have seen have been not just painted & reassembled (Instr No.11), but have received a further coat over the whole generator (Instr No.19). As the MOD plate should be marked I would have thought it should be left unpainted, but the ones I have seen have the MOD & Data plate covered in paint.:-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Without opening the floodgates. You have seen the rear from a previous thread you posted on Gens. Possibly EMLRA? Plate painted out currently in duck egg blue, which I hope to carefully remove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Without opening the floodgates. You have seen the rear from a previous thread you posted on Gens. Possibly EMLRA?Oh crikey that'll take some finding. Plate painted out currently in duck egg blue, which I hope to carefully remove. Oh no, no, not DEB. When I mentioned DEB I had my tongue in my cheeks, what you have is Sky Blue BSC381C 101. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 (edited) Oh no, no, not DEB. When I mentioned DEB I had my tongue in my cheeks, what you have is Sky Blue BSC381C 101. Well its going to be Black anyway That foo par was like me saying Clansman and I knew damn well it was Larkspur..........Easily done I guess. Besides I would say more turqoise than sky blue.......:whistle: Edited March 12, 2012 by Rover8FFR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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