ruxy Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Oh - so yours is earlier ! I wonder if there was on published after the March 1981 version ? Have to check , possibly not as the Mid 1980 brake changes can / should be accessed from the S3 Parts Catalogues ( mine is June 1988 - but probably one between '80 & '88).. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Hi folks. Dont want to confuse the above. But for information I have parts book, Code No. 61278.. May 75' LV6MT9/2530-99-823-6024 SHUTTLE VALVE brake failure switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Hi folks. Dont want to confuse the above. But for information I have parts book, Code No. 61278.. May 75'LV6MT9/2530-99-823-6024 SHUTTLE VALVE brake failure switch. Same here in the second edition July 1982. part no 599443 There is also Parts, kit, shuttle valve 2530-99-824-3020 part no SP2863 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Like I said - a bit mind boggling as to early late bracket & how mounted to late bracket , take a couple of Asprin and then read the following http://forum.emlra.org/viewtopic.php?t=5382&highlight=pdwa+valve as a "Initial" aid to identification if you wish to obtain the correct valve/switch/seal kit to fit to existing pipework or overhaul a old valve. Likewise if doing a full re-pipe - then always best to keep with the design of valve for that time-line rather than ad hoc - there are good reasons , one being that you don't want a total Pick-N-Mix of tubing nut threads & SAE / DIN flaring. None of the catalogues give accurate change points of design of valve or in fact cover all the Solihull as builds. Due to metrication (cylinders stayed UNF) - best to limit the changes to a minimum, metric to UNF at the bridge pipe (as Rover did) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Same here in the second edition July 1982. part no 599443 There is also Parts, kit, shuttle valve 2530-99-824-3020 part no SP2863 Andy / Clive we are talking optional equipment parts catalogues not standard parts catalogues. The valve PDWA is not covered in my LTWT parts catalogue??????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Front Cover Pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted July 18, 2011 Author Share Posted July 18, 2011 (edited) Whilst doing a bit more on the chassis strip, namely removing rear axle, springs, shocks etc I killed a little time while the heat and oil worked into the spring hanger bolts etc by removing some of the asphaltic, bitumastic slop off the underside of the rear tub with a heat gun and scraper. What I noticed was, that apart from the underside of the body being painted DBG, the under body support rails were also. I have seen so many threads where they are removed, cleaned and then re-galved as part of a restoration. Thinking they were all like that from the factory I was surprised to see paint underneath (pictures to follow)! Going back to the spring hanger / shackle bolts and I suffered on one fixing the same as the front when I removed that. Both ironically on the drivers side.......Bolt seized solid into bush! Heated and soaked for about half an hour. Left it and came back and nothing so had to angle grind the chassis to release the spring / axle complete. Also the shock absorbers appear to be a genuine LR item as painted dark blue with a rectangular label / sticker about 100x50mm. Are these standard shocks still available by this manufacturer.....Did try the compression and rebound stroke and they are even and no signs of weepage on the rams when fully extended do may just rub back, prime and repaint, or given the cost I would surmise cheaper to replace???? All that remains for chassis now is to remove rear bumprettes and lifting eyes, along with mudflaps / brackets etc and hack up chassis for scrap man. Looking forward to getting the replacement chassis in on tressles and then the build up can commence...Yey! Hope whilst I was in my dry warm garage the LR fans out there that ventured to Billing didn't get to wet......No doubts threads to follow. Edited July 18, 2011 by Rover8FFR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted July 30, 2011 Author Share Posted July 30, 2011 Managed to remove the rear bumptettes from the wrotten chassis, lifting eyes and the winterised mudflaps as per the attached image. The only other mudflap details I have seen are on Disco Dave's site and they differ to mine. Looking at the perfectly cut and curved edges I believe these to be a genuine part albeit different to other images / drawings. Does anyone recall how these looked when being fitted by you old Reme boys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 Sounds like you are progressing well. Must admit I'm not keeping up to date on my restoration here. Working on my tub at mo. Some horror stories!!! Will up date soon. look forward to seeing the chassis on tressels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 (edited) Cheers Andy it is progressing but not as fast as I woulld like but progress none the less. Started carving up the chassis tonight with a little more umph and almost got a manhandle lump of rotten tin to play with. Edited July 31, 2011 by Rover8FFR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Hi Wayne. When you cut the old chassis up, has the supplier for your new one told you to keep the section of the old one with chassis no. on, if still readable? They did with mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 Yes mate have the dumb iron with number..... I noticed that the support rails under the rear tub are painted DBG. I thought they were always Galv??? Image attached to show DBG under the bituminous coating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 Well after uploading some images of my early type winterised mudflaps that were cut around the rear lifting eyes I measured them up tonight and then drew them up using AutoCAD. Converted to PDF for upload. The rubber material is approximately 6mm (1/4 inch) thick and the dimensions suit my Lightweight, but you made need to adjust locally to suit your own vehicles / builds tolerances. Hope the attached is of value to other Lightweight owners / restorers. All dimensions are in Metric (mm). Cheers S3 Winterised Lightweight Rear Mudflaps 1976.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Hi Wayne, see my pics of the under tub supports rails removed. Bare alloy. and the rails def. just pressed steel and spray painted final assy. Hence rotton rails!! My new ones will be undersealed inside before assy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 Thanks Andy I did notice yours were not galv. The under rails on my 2a Rover 8FFR are galv, so I believed they all would be given the environment they would be in underneath etc. I guess a good epoxy primer and 2pack top coat would protect them quite well and an application of waxoil would mimic the bitumin coating as standard without the pitfalls rust wise. Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 Well the old chassis has been chopped up sufficient to clear out and the replacement chassis set on stands / blocks for some initial repainting and then the rebuild up. I noticed the original shocks were painted blue and I found the remnance of a manufacturers label as the photo. Are these still available. Does anyone know???? FT any ideas m8??? Also added a picture of the rear of the generator for Clive, but must post under another thread elsewhere also for him. Question....What are the differences between a S2a chassis and a S3 for a lightweight???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted August 22, 2011 Author Share Posted August 22, 2011 Not a lot of work but essentially pictures on back of comments from FT regarding chassis items and brakes. S3 Brake Bracket on Hub Confirmed Bell Housing Cross Member (Old Chassis). New Chassis with the S2/S3 lightweight chassis quirks Markings on Rear Diff. Part Numbers??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted August 22, 2011 Share Posted August 22, 2011 Great detail pics. One mistake with my rebuild, should have drilled new chassis in correct positions for clips for new brake pipes. Very, very difficult with engine etc. back in. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 Uncovered the service plate on the side of my engine block yesterday as its a preserved engine. Can anyone explain the details beyond oversized bores and pistons. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Uncovered the service plate on the side of my engine block yesterday as its a preserved engine. Can anyone explain the details beyond oversized bores and pistons. Thanks Hi Wayne, Your engine was built on a rebuild programme at 44 District Workshop REME, Ashford, Kent. Sadly, no longer there, as the High Speed railway to Paris cuts across the site now. I think the number stamped vertically is possible the last two groups of the NSN for this unit, when I was building engines on the line there, some years earlier, we did not stamp this in, but with so many variants of these engines, it may have been done for ease of identity. If you found the word "Preserved" painted on the engine, this was done after testing and prior to packing, means it was sprayed inside with preservative then sealed up. regards, Richard The "S" stamps mean it has Standard size crank journals, ie Mains and Big end, probably a new crank was fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 According to the L'wt Parts Book dated may 1975 :- LV7RU / 2805-99-822-9494 ENGINE,GASOLINE c/w clutch, 24 electrics , up to engine No. 95109476A Rover No. 608326 ----- That NSN would probably be just for a brand new Ex-Solihull crated cartridge. I have the odd FFR crated Lightweight FFR engine units , problem is they are stored with poor access. As soon as I can get to them - I will check all the labels on the crates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 That NSN would probably be just for a brand new Ex-Solihull crated cartridge. . A rebuilt engine goes under the same NSN as a ex-works new engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Some time ago Ruxy asked about details and pics of the chassis I have that is a S2/S3 crossover for the Lightweight. I attach the images I took today as I have to move here soon due to a change in circumstances, and so I am getting the FFR in a state for transportation. Hence the unrefurbed bits being re-fixed temporarily! Tony let me know if you need more buddy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 A query! What is the best way to clean a scruffy, mucky engine like mine? In the past GUNK was always the product of choice, but are there any other DIY remedies. Would a mild solution of caustic soda cause damage if well rinsed, but used to free off the grime. I know it can be used as a paint stripper if consentrated like a gel / paste. Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike65 Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 I always used to use Gunk did a very good job especially in conjunction with a hot water pressure washer. This was also good for removing paint on alloy motorbike wheels. Never tried caustic soda on anything other than decoking 2 stroke exhausts, mind you also used an oxyacetylene welding torch for that as well. I do know caustic soda and aluminium alloy parts do not mix very well. So I would be careful about my advice. I don't believe in Elves so the safety bit don't stand much chance either:-D Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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