pigdog Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 (edited) Never worked on a distributor before, so forgive all the dumb questions I'll be asking. I'm learning. Installed a new set of plugs in the ferret. Gapped for .015. I also have a set of NOS HT leads that I'm replacing the old cruddy ones with. Also got 2 new sets of points. The HT leads seems pretty straight forward I think. Cut the wires to the proper length and install on the pins. The old ones seemed to have a type of resin/glue on the ends?? Do I just push the new wires on the pin or do I make a samll hole in the wire then press it on the pin? The rotor arm seems really dirty and coroded. Do I need a new one or can it just be cleaned up? What about the inside of the rotor cap? File it clean? On the points can I just replace the old with the new or will I have to then fool around with the timing? Thanks -Chris 1965 Mk 2/3 Ferret 00 EC 55 Edited January 19, 2010 by pigdog wrong plug gap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 The leads just press into the cap and are held in place when the top is fitted. You can clean the cap and rotor arm with some emery paper, don't file them as you may remove too much material. When you replace the points don't touch those screws which are painted red. You should really read the instructions before touching the points. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankdiver Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 The leads just press into the cap and are held in place when the top is fitted. You can clean the cap and rotor arm with some emery paper, don't file them as you may remove too much material. When you replace the points don't touch those screws which are painted red. You should really read the instructions before touching the points. Chris never clean the rotor arm or the posts in the distributor cap with anything abrasive this increases the gap betweenthe rotor and distributor posts making the coil to work harder laurence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankdiver Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 The leads just press into the cap and are held in place when the top is fitted. You can clean the cap and rotor arm with some emery paper, don't file them as you may remove too much material. When you replace the points don't touch those screws which are painted red. You should really read the instructions before touching the points. Chris replacing points note position of the washers on the low tension wires if you fit them incorrectly it wont start. make sure when gapping that you rotate the engine to open the points then adjust Laurence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferretfixer Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Never worked on a distributor before, so forgive all the dumb questions The rotor arm seems really dirty and coroded. Do I need a new one or can it just be cleaned up? What about the inside of the rotor cap? File it clean? On the points can I just replace the old with the new or will I have to then fool around with the timing? Thanks -Chris 1965 Mk 2/3 Ferret 00 EC 55 Rotor Arm: Rub the edge of the brass distribution segment on the side of a tyre HARD. This will remove a lot of the corosion / build up without taking any metal away. The 'Posts' inside the dizzy cap, just scrape away the carbon build up CAREFULLY with a small screwdriver. You will find that 'Flakes' of carbon just fall off. I have done this to dozens of Ferrets in service when i worked on them to no detrimental effect. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Do yourself a favour mate and fit the electronic ignition kit that is available for this. It will be some of the best money you will ever spend IMHO. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmite!! Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Never worked on a distributor before... Essential reading from Clive then..... http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/IGNITIONMATTERS.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigdog Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) Essential reading from Clive then..... http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/IGNITIONMATTERS.pdf I found this yesterday and printed it out. The posts in my distributor cap some seem like the rotor arm was rubbing them, so they have a gouge in them. Is that normal or should it be replaced? I might just go ahead and connect the HT leads and check out if it runs any different and then replace the points. Edited January 20, 2010 by pigdog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) The posts in my distributor cap some seem like the rotor arm was rubbing them, so they have a gouge in them. It won't be rubbing. It is erosion from the spark jumping the gap, which is inevitable with time. I would just clean it sufficientlty to see clean metal, but don't try to flatten it level. Worth also cleaning the end of the rotor arm where the spark jumps from. Just rub it back & forth on some very fine glass paper etc. When you replace the HT leads in the cap don't tug at them as it is easy to snap the pins in the cap that penentrate through the cable insulation into the wires. This is partilarly likely to happen if there is a bit of corosion. Use a long fine screwdriver wiggled in beteeen the cable & the cap. Then when the tip of the screwdriver is near the end wiggle it from side to side to try to lever the cable from the pin. Also make sure your rotor arm is really nice & dry. I have seen unused mint condition ones exhibit leakage through the insulation material to the shaft. Yet I have seen far better performance from an old & grotty rotor arm. The reason the grotty one was better was that it had been out all day on a traders stall! I measured the insulation of a series of rotor arms I had. Then remeasured them after they had been left out in the hot sun all day & the leakage halved. Probably not significant with a warm running engine. But trying to get something to start, that hasn't started for a while best not to have a damp rotor arm. Now you know what a linen cupboard is for so that the spare rotor arms can keep the welding rods company:) Edited January 20, 2010 by fv1609 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigdog Posted January 21, 2010 Author Share Posted January 21, 2010 Thanks evryone for the info. I removed the wires from the cap by sliding dental floss under the wire so I could pull it up where the pin post is. :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.