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FWIW , the latest official Land Rover parts list I have to hand RTC9968FA dated June 1993 This list parts for both early & late DZS4A dizzy Plugs :- 566713 , this is listed specifically for 7:1 cr (I doubt if you have a low cr head fitted ? ) -------------------- or RTC 4732 , 8:1 cr I have just broken the seal on a Land Rover Genuine Parts box and removed the plug. it is gapped .80mm (.0315") The body is branded Lodge SRL14L "Made in England" ISRT Lodge went bonk quite a few years ago, IIRC of late I have seen the brand name Lodge used on a car type of plug I fitted to a Fiat , the plugs were marked as made in Italy , IIRC I checked up and they were Magneti Marelli manuf. I will continue to search for new plugs, I have some more recent stock , ISTR also RTC 4732 but I think these may in fact have Land Rover as the name brand ?

============== A very good question, I myself have removed them from direct release MOD FFR's , also I suspect dodgy info. from eBay sales & where vendors give a long list of supersession numbers where it has somehow been included to shift a load of dead stock LoL

============== A very good question, I myself have removed them from direct release MOD FFR's , also I suspect dodgy info. from eBay sales & where vendors give a long list of supersession numbers where RSN13P has somehow been included to shift a load of dead stock LoL

Can't find the RSN13P plugs , however going through the notes I made in the past - they were gapped new at .40mm (0.0157") , so take your pick of 15 or 16 thou. The service life of platinum plugs is supposedly far longer than normal types, AFAIK the main advantage is that - electrons leap away from the tip of a small dia. with a sharp edge more willing than fatter & eroded round tips , thus less voltage is required to form a spark. ISTR - these claims were one of the reason I jacked using the RSN13P , as less voltage required means more voltage available. So this is like a sports coil - where you must open the gap wider than standard to get the full benefits , seems a bit of confliction ???

Take care ! We have been here more than once, I am aware that the spark plug point gap in "User Instructions" going back to Rover marks 8.9. 10 & 11 + Rover 1 (S2A Lightweight) states 0.015" to 0.018". This instruction ran over into S3 3/4 ton 109" & S3 Lightweight User Manuals - then in the later ones it was amd. to 0.029" to 0.032" There have been a few plug offerings from the 19'60's into the 19'80's including P suffix (platinum types) eg RSN13P I have a museum of NOS FFR type plugs somewhere with copious notes. ISTR I was finding them set new very accurate at 0.031" Aahaa You would be unwise to re-gap a new plug. Somewhere - I have a good stock of new RSN13P (I stopped using them) , IIRC they also had 0.031" gaps , will have a good search around and double-check this dims. Can't find them in the airing cupboard , most others but not RSN13P - if they are in my office then they are lost for ever. =================================== ISTR - the reason is that there were specific plugs that did indeed have a new gap of 0.015" to 0.018" BUT these were for 7:1 CR engines in the S2A days Unfortunately - at the time of my research (yes, I listed all Rover & Champion + Lodge plug numbers with NSN Ref. alongside) I could not find this particular plug , described as :- Champion RSN BPA Replacement sparking plugs for the above given as :- LV6/MT4/3343 or LV6/MT4/79698 I suspect these were obsoleted donkeys years ago BUT you may find NOS, I don't recall ever having a RSN BPA in my hands ever ?

http://salem.craigslist.org/tls/2818228515.html

Arguably - not the most practical field jacket , I have British & West German , BUT my fav. esp. in blue (it goes with Jeans) , I should get the matching trousers

Survival Aids always were at Morland Nr. Penrith , I don't know when they were established. They had a growth boom - they then had outlet shops at Edinburgh and Euston Station Approach and this would be early 1980's. I think this original SA Ltd. Co. went bonk. There was also a good hiking equipment shop at Richmond , North Yorks who sold S.A. kit , he sold quite a bit to soldiers at Catterick Garrison. The owner of this shop reliably informed me that S.A. actually manufactured the smocks for the SAS , I don't know if this is in fact correct - this must have been abt. 1985/86. I in fact purchased a SAS smock from this shop - then sold it on to a friend, this was for a couple of reasons - he wanted it and offered me more than I paid, because it was DP - I hardly used it. I realized I had made a mistake - I did not heed the advise of the shop owner. He understood my needs better than I , he said I would not wear it as often as the Grenfell(s) he knew I used. I ended up buying what he said I should obtain in the first place (I still have it in excellent condition - because I tended to continue to use Grenfell walkers). This jacket is a "Arctic Ranger" - the shop prop. told me it was a far superior jacket to the SAS smock , further he stated it was in fact made by Survival Aids, that they were contracted to supply jackets for the "Outward Bounds" - as used by kids & staff. It is double-lined , 100% ventile cotton..

The Zeus timing gear kit originated from the London taxi regulating authourity (I forget their title) having to clean up smokers , they then went on to make the black cab stop better :- http://www.zeus.uk.com/about.php

Was the Mk.6 Terry engine the adapted one (IIRC idea by a REME Major) with the metal oil recovery cyclone to stop paper element filters fogging up ? (and permitting the oil engine to run for ever until the sump ran dry) Possibly it was a Major Terry ?

Solihull were always a bit vague , quoting tractive effort, that is until they had to mark to international VIN plate. Early S3 Lightweight and S2A , seat-base states 2 tons (arguably offroad) these vehicles had 10" front brakes. ========== Late S3 Lightweights "rationalized axles" 11" front brakes , fitted VIN - compare axle loadings & permitted = good for 3.5 tonne gross overun braked. Any Defender , TUL/TUM , Wolf , whatever , check VIN plate axle loadings , AFAIK - all good for 3.5 tonne gross overun braked

Hi folks , I am doing a bit of research on a genny set that is coming up for sale. I was asked to view by the present owner. On forum search - I found this thread that has supplied much information. I had difficulty in identification of the flathead engine , seems it is a Coventy Climax Swift. http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?25539-Coventry-Climax-Godiva-Genterator&highlight=GODIVA On Gooooging Swift Motors , it seems the engine is probably well prior to WW2 ? I had considered WW2 era but - I am reliably informed it was installed in a cinema during WW2 (until recent removal) so unless it was liberated - then I would say pre- WW2. The general overall condition , I would say is exceptional - it recently started and ran without load no problem. It must have been in good dry storage all these years , I rubbed paint off the Godiva badge on the radiator header - there was just slight surface rust. I think the genny should Megger out good. The condition is such that it should be saved as a "Heritage" show display , suitable to power a mobile cinema for the troops or whatever - I don't know. The distributor is a Lucas and seems to be screened ignition ! was it originally intended for military signals ? I assume it is Ex-MOD due to DBG , but I did not see a "Broad-arrow" , also despite looking - I did not find the main makers plate . I have no doubt it is where I did not look - see the existing thread (bottom of radiator support bracketry). Zenith carburetter , complete with starting handle but is battery start. I would be interested to hear from any forum member who knows more of the history / age of these set , also if anybody can give a realistic estimate of £ value ?

A good question , probably cost reduction , construction had already changed at start of S2 (less durable). Possibly such as as Sika tube or bulk sealant not available (chromate paste was). A real good coat of their paint (that was a stoved finish) on the frame prior to painting would have prevented panel perforation longer. Interesting - I first through drilled (using a long drill through 2 walls where required) to gain access for injecting Ensis fluid into Lightweight doors late 1970's. I purchased some Ex-Dutch NOS Lightweight doors about Y2K (never issued / never fitted) - I laughed , cursory examination revealed that the Cloggie Military were in fact re-furbishing brand new Land Rover parts such as the doors - they had done exactly as I had BUT they sealed their drilled holes with a small plastic plug after injection ! They had also allowed the preservation fluid to drain down every inner face as a barrier between the alloy skin & steel frame (that I had also done). Obviously it takes about 1/2 hour per door to do this. I have never examined a Dutch Series door top , one presumes they followed the same procedure . I do - it will add years of life esp. when you renew the glass runner strips and coat the channel - all a bit too messy for production workers or somebody earning a crust. Incidently - the mastic strip used to seal the floor plates / transmission tunnel etc. Grey / White colour , for years I used what seemed to be the exact stuff - manufactured by 3M (body panel tape) , they have stopped manufacture of this product AFAIK , there must be similar alternative makes , however body shops just use the caulking gun now with probably a cheapish mastic. You just have to hope some PO has not used a Sika bonding adhesive on your floor plates / transmission cover LoL

In relationship to corrosion of fixings , there are so many factors regarding "nobility" with Stainless Steel a few clues are here :- http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=89 Observation of fixing thingies in the real world is good , a lot depends on the local soil and water acidity that sloshes up along with road salt. A good book to get a better understanding is :- Stainless fixings do have their place as replacements on Land Rovers as a improvement (and as a long term low cost eradication of trouble) , you just need to take care where you use them. Most of the fixings are going to be "S" or 8.8 grade , try and torque SS up in situations where S / 8.8 are used to correct torque and you will deform the "soft" threads making the most effective lock-nuts you have come across. A good example of this is a Stainless Steel exhaust system , you may think use of SS fixings would be good because you are keeping all parts SS , however the torque normally used to get things lined up and secured for gas tight alignment will deform the threads. Even if you back off on tightening somewhat - you will suffer from what is known as "thread gauling" because you have busted the oxide coating and they will more or less seize / cold weld solid - as bad as rusted. Foliac . Coppaslip / Paul PBC would have limited value. You would probably better off with a SS or BZP (bright zinc plate) bolt with a double-depth brass nut in this situation. You can still obtain brass "manifold" length nuts in UNF for the front pipe to manifold, these cover all the stud thread to stop rust and you can not overtorque & strip the threads - this eliminates all the problems at this position. btw Land Rover on military S3 models specified NR 605090 hex. nuts on manifold studs to the block, these were SS. A civvy LR - would not get these , you would get a MS plated nut - not even a "coppered" nut that many mass produced cars would get. When Unipart had the spares contract - many fixings went over to their common parts bin of low grade fixings - they would ant you to use a GHF201. Land Rover did not like Unipart for this, in fact when LRP&E took over the spares contract using the Caterpillar Desford warehouse - it all went full-circle. For example , hex. sets for securing your oil-pump Rover would supply blackadized or cadmium plated , Unipart would give you BZP. Bonnet hinge bolts, 330139 , Rover would supply bolts that did not rust uncoated at this location for several years , Unipart would give you BZP that may stay rust free for 6 weeks with a few microns flash zinc (unless you spilt some Coke on that would strip the zinc in under 48 hours). Generally Land Rover selected , Galvanized (hot spun) , beware of dry galvanized fixings that can almost pass for hot spun , Sheradized , passivated or chemical blackadized - depending on where it is used and what it is liable to be attacked by. You need to learn how to identify finish, locate at lowest cost , and isolate dissimilar metals with messy chromate paste or a plastic washer barrier - too time consuming for Solihull assembly , this way you should stop your aluminium returning to white dust oxides. ------------ So , to get back to the point , if you wish your restoration project to last as long as yourself - all a matter of identification , depending where Land Rover used various qualities of fixings surface treatment.

They don't show the Contract plate (that is seen on the seatbase). The plate is the type that SV (Special Vehicle Operations - Solihull) use on a standard line vehicle Civvy. Spec. , more or less CL (Commercial Logistics) to keep costs down (look at the light fittings , headlamps , headlamp embelishers) . Seems standard civvy spec. 300 tdi , hard-top, other than the Wolf style wheel rims (that could have been done at a in-service tyre replacement) + NATO towing pack. Similar procedure as S3 CL's (and a few specials). Seems to have had the TUAAM mounting plate added in service - probably for a local radio antenna mounting. A good clue is the use of VRM "AY" , long after introduction of "Tri-Service" registrations. I suspect use by RAF Regiment for security, on a base used by the USA with a nominal RAF title.

btw , for what it is worth , I have known a few main-harness burn outs where the loom passes through a square hole about 1.1/2" x 1.1/2" in the bulkhead. I always dress any sharp edges & give a bit of extra wrap. I don't know if ever was a part number (never looked) sometimes you find them and often you don't. It is a 2" cube of firm foam that you stuff in the square hole to stop movement on the loom. IIRC I use a bit of 22mm Climatube (copper tube insulation lagging) - probably better than what Solihull used.

Project IKEA ShedHeads are very boring people , esp. if they are "Timber Engineers" and not carpenters..

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?20709-Lightweight-land-rover-parra-recce-vehicle Follow this thread , Para Lightweight (in service) with SA80 on bulkhead !!

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?17175-Gun-clips-what-weapon Have a read of this thread , there should be more info. forthcoming on this subject from those who are better informed on weapons than I am. The shoulder stock folds under on the Sterling SMG , however IIRC stowage is possible in the leather lined "universal" clips that are quite close together at the centre seat position on a Lightweight. A S2A Land Rover (not a Lightweight) could also have SLR clips mounted on the dashboard (not possible on a S3 plastic dash). Now then - there is a bit of choice on a S2A , the mounting brackets are the same IIRC - BUT you could mount the "universal" (identical clips , pair of 348943) or the specific clip for rifle butt 308807 and the specific clip for the rifle barrel 308808. There is a special instrument panel in fact with the slot - nick already cut out (certain contracts standard) - this is to aid securing the bracket for the barrell, it is off-centre (nearer a RHD steering column) , the butt clip is at the top of the dash abt. 6" from the door. You may even find a third clip (butt) - this must be for optional SMG stowage. A Lightweight bulkhead is not so good for mounting clips for a SLR because the screen wiper motor cover is in the way , however there is room for fitting a pair of brackets & universals BUT I don't recall having seen this done or evidence of holes where brackets have been mounted.. Small arms clips other than the "Universals" - you will have to look hard to find , I don't think they are the FV numbere3d ones in the earlier thread link.

The subject of Pioneer £ valuations cropped up on another thread. I posted the following :- Re: Scammell Pioneer s/n 4977 Scammel prices / desirability , I am aware a Pioneer is WW2 era and that has some additional advantage, so some opinion would rate more cashe. However a Explorer that I suppose is better described as post-WW2, to some may have lower valuation (for what is a mighty fine truck). When this Explorer came on the market several weeks ago - only 1 bid & sold at £10,000 , is this a benchmark to work from for all good ?? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISA...407706&afsrc=1 Opinions please.. ==================== Quite correctly there was another post that this should be raised as a totally seperate thread, the subject of thread hi-jack had crossed my mind. So here we are, I have to say - I was sort of aware of the Explorer (based just off the A1 Northumberland) , I had a watch on the eBay thread and expected a few final £ snipes , there were none , this set me thinking that I had the wrong valuation of this quality / type of truck in my mind. Or is it a sign of the times ,,,,, Now then - apparently we have asking prices for blitzed Pioneers well in excess of scrap £ value. Taking into consideration the material £ cost for a full restoration. Of course the time taken is to be considered a pleasure time , things don't seem to £ add up. This is the reason that I would like to see a few IMHO in open forum....

2nd pic. ISO container - from about 1965, The EAC brand - is the best good clue. White bs paint is not normally wasted. Black hull with white band below gunnels = P&O Lines (2 white bands = British India. Steam Nav.) pity the badge is not shown fully at the sharp end. Therefore I would stab a guess at East End of London or Liverpool only because they would spend more time there. Dock crane - typical Stothbert & Pitt , anywhere UK or colonies in main. Yes - that particular tread does look like a copy pattern Petlas use now , so not that old

http://www.derelictplaces.co.uk/main/showthread.php?t=12638

All is not so simple, and you seem to have some error in any case, I have not seen a good listing of the Fiscal Year dates.. It depends where the "Fiscal year" starts / finishes. It was not always Jan to Dec. eg. With Land Rovers :- Generally KE would be 1985 The 1986 fiscal year - started from Jan. 1986 - so all KF would be 1986 (most probably)

1974 rhd ford escort rs2000 , the only one by Ford in copper/bronze, FFR - probably for NI ,where else in '74 ? , hardly tactical covert - most strange..

What is special about a Lightweight 12 volt battery platform ? It is the same platform as on a 12 volt civvy Land Rover - measure one up & fabricate. All bits easily made from 3mm / 1/8" plate , the struts are easily folded. A good modification is to notch out the front centre with a 3/8" or 1/2" dia. rat-tail file , this is so you can use the later plastic acid spillage tray that has a stem & plastic pipe to get any spillage below the chassis