ruxy

Try replacing the first phone socket in the house (filter socket) . A MK one from B&Q is about £4 - worked for me.

'Waikaha' a very important Chevrolet now at IWM.. http://wdrg.org/album/displayimage.php?album=1&pos=0

I have had them and a IT savy person can get rid of some easy. However the one that seems to be very malicious is called "Antispywaredoctor" - it is in fact a rogue antispyware application (rogueware).. Apparently the free version of Malwarebytes can sort out many. Antispywaredoctor wrecks your machine from a very early stage by what are known "redirects" , every keystroke you make it - it informs you and suggests your computer needs its treatment. Normally malware is less vicious. . It is a international crime - demanding money with menaces. In my case - to get control of my computer again - I enrolled for Spyhunter4 (from USA) , it costs £33 every 6 months , the cost may not be very clear and they add VAT although they are US based ? . Of course Antispywaredoctor wants you to sign up for their treatment (apparently Russian ) , I don't know how much it costs - but of course they get your card details. I Gooooogled up on "Redirects" , and they can be very common , apparently Google were challenged , they can stop it BUT they stated they were not prepared to. It is all about sales commission - if you were to buy goods via. a re-direct. What it seems to boil down with - these Search Engines you use - there is no such thing as a free lunch..

That is the self & same tech. data sheet that as far as I can determine is on their present web-site ,, seems the person at Thompsons who answered the enquiry does not know what they are talking about. Two years ago I emailed Ronseal (Sherwin Williams) and asked if their metal paint (similar to ICI Hammerite) contained silicone oil - they said no.. A few weeks later they contacted me again and stated in fact that it did contain silicone oil. A bit too late as I had used it , quite high in silicone oil I would say but it seems to wash off the surface after about 1 year exposure..

BUT - in their Tech. Data Sheet as far as I know they never ever stated it was suitable as duck proofer. They sell treatments for brick walls !! They would not suggest suitable for anything outside their control.. I used to use Grangers Fabsil (fabricsilicon) on tents , then I joined a sailing club and was advised nobody used Fabsil for Lake District sunshine protection - everybody used Febsil (FEB Building Products , brick silicon sealer) , because it was the same stuff. I don't think it is in the FEB range now ? Everbuild Superseal - will be the same stuff (just had a perusal of the tech data sheet). I have used a few of this type of product on tentage duck and heavier type canvas - no problems. I have even sprayed tilts with cellulose OD paint - and it has never attacked the polyester stitching..

http://www.thompsonsweatherproofing.co.uk/products/product.jsp?id=1 They still do the spirit based original. the "Ultra" is the Aqua EU Compliant water based..

NO !! Under OSA it is still a top secret.. http://www.secretscotland.org.uk/index.php/Secrets/X-Craft

I try and stick to colour coded containers for lawnmower , cement mixer etc. but have made the odd error. I have noticed over the last few years that it can be harder to tell the difference between unleaded & DERV , pour some in a jam jar & look at it in good light - the final check for oilyness between fingers is not so easy now.. The two fuels do seem to be getting closer - is this because petrol multi-point injection and a modern diesel fueling system have so few differences ? Or is it just a minor tech point at a light -end cracker where at one time it was quite fixed - the % diesel /kero/petrol that could be drawn off ?

For balls you need the gun as well !!! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/L118_Light_Gun I presume they just hooked it up at the castle and went walkies for a few hours..

http://www.edinphoto.org.uk/0_buildings_g/0_buildings_-_greyfriars_bobbys_bar+field_gun+van_077627.htm

This is why they sell pre-mixed , I always use it for first fill after flushing - then only top up with neat. I once had a company car supposedly serviced at a franchise dealership and logged as AF changed at last service. Going up the incline on the A19 River Tees in heavy traffic at -10C I heard the pump start crunching ice , it boiled up before I could find a safe pull in near Middlesbrough..

Comma probably manufacture more AF than anybody else in Uk. The technical datasheet for the industry standard Super Coldmaster , states Alloy / Iron. Are you afraid your engine has some sort of inferior aluminium alloy from WW2 ? If you don't by a off-shelf product - who is going to mix you a drum to your specific requirements ? Seems no get out clause to me , why don't you send a email with a specific question or to , specific query = specific answer.. SUPERCOLDMASTER APPLICATION • A Mono Ethylene Glycol (MEG) based engine coolant / anti-freeze concentrate. • Suitable for use in all types of vehicle requiring an MEG coolant. PROPERTIES • Protects for 2 years. • Helps prevent winter freezing and summer boil over. Also improves heat transfer. • Pure glycol formulation contains no flammable alcohol or methanol. • NAP (Nitrite, Phosphate and Amine) free. • Suitable for Ferrous and Aluminium engines. • Meets BS6580 – 1992, ASTM D1384, D2750 and D4340, SAE J1034. TYPICAL INSPECTION DATA Appearance Clear blue liquid Specific Gravity @ 20°C 1.123 Boiling Point Min 155 °C Protection levels Supercoldmaster (%) Approx. Protection (°C) 25 -11 33 -18 50 -34 DIRECTIONS FOR USE • Dilute with water, as recommended by your vehicle handbook. • Minor spills should be soaked up with oil absorbent granules, sand or dirt. The spillage site should then be washed with soapy water and dried. HANDLING • Wash off any spillage on paintwork immediately. • Keep away from foodstuffs and oxidising agents. • Store in airtight container. • Avoid galvanised containers for storage or dispensing as they will corrode and contaminate the product. SHELF LIFE • 3 years from date of manufacture. • Manufacture date can be identified from a five figure code printed on the bottle. The first three figures indicate the consecutive day of the year, the last two figures the year. md 14/04/2009

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/270751631638?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp5197.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D270751631638%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1 dunno looks like it went down a slip at Chatham

The main harness - it passes through a square hole in the bulkhead (to the instrument box). this hole has sharp edges (best to dress as best you can).. Also the Solihull factory used a 2" cube of firmish foam jammed in to stop harness movement at this position. To reduce the risk of chaffing of the braid & sheath PVC - this is in fact one of the best bits of protection against a burn out. Did you find one of these foam cubes ? ISTR I have never seen them on the parts lists and they are often missing. IIRC I have one safe as a sample on the garage window sill - will have a look & take a photograph.. The first time I found one - I almost threw it away !

The main bulkhead harness is the thinghy of value - the loom down the chassis for rear lighting is no big deal as standard S3 88" , I would have to check the part numbers IIRC exact same - so the plug goes straight into a L'wt main harness..

=========================== http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Briggs-Stratton-Fuel-Fit-Additive-Stabiliser-999005-/250753590439?pt=UK_Home_Garden_GardenPowerTools_CA&hash=item3a621424a7

These things go in circles - often before their time. This plant was at ICI Billingham , hardly ran from 1980 - probably chopped up for scrap.. http://www.scienceandsociety.co.uk/results.asp?image=10320664

Planning permission in conservation area , or if floor area more than 30 square meters, , or height more than 4m or eaves more than 2.5m.. Building regs. only if Planning Permission needed or if in front of house building line facing a main road or floor area covering more than 50% of garden England & Wales - basic rules..

Well - on the subject of "Toasties" - have you ever seen a in service photograph of a Royal Navy ambulance with one fitted ? 00 RN 23 ambi. conversion by Wadham Stringer , so who is to say that the rack was dedicated to 40A FFW's with rectifier. I need to do a bit of research into when the ambi. conversion was done , or did the sailors just nick one off a Royal Sig. radio truck to give it the distinctive military appearance ?

Check the seive on the bottom of the lift pipe inside the tank(s) not clogged. The cork seal inside the change over fuel tap could have dried out and be sucking air (common after standing) , check on eBay for Fergy tractor TVO change over tap (same - manuf. by Enots). If the pump is a genuine AC or good copy , there should be a manual lever on the underside for you to prime with - if OK then you should get a good gusher at the carb end - they don't need much to start & run LoL Beware of the non-genuine rubbish lift pumps..

The Drg. is also titled up as "1/4 ton" , whereas as you are aware a Lightweight nomenclature was always 1/2 ton (Except for the few Rover 1 pre-pros and they were in fact rated at 1/4 ton).. IMHO - winterization was a progressive project. The Lightweight winterization kits are complete but there is no insulation and it is not detailed on the parts schedule. A letter from C.J. Williams ISTR stated it was Plastazote insulation and not their concern , they stated they only converted some Lightweights at their Aldershot works (mine was not included on the list they had - so done by ABRO or REME). The S3 Lightweight winterized Army,RAF & RM all had a bit of variation on the level of insulation . I just suspect that if there were winterized before Lightweights then the insulation was a bit rudimentary such as ply sheathing. I will have to pull out all the paperwork , it is in the bottow drawer of a 3 drawer filing cabinet ISTR , however there has been a avalanche of stuff from on top of the two drawer cabinet - need a bit of time for a tidy up..

Read exactly what I typed. LOOK at the blueprints carefully. Due you see the outline of a Lightweight or the outline of a military S2A mark 6,8 or possibly 10 ?

As you know alloy is a good condenser & wood is warm. I have fitted 1/4" marine-ply myself in the past & have seen the odd bit of in-service linings but probably a unit or driver mod. =============== Early winterization ?? Look at the blue-prints here - what do you identify ?? http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk/Winterised.html I would have to hunt out the makers drawings and check all the amd. dates - that would be quite definative.. ------------- Having said that - I don't ever recall having seen any form of S2A winterization - but then I only started to take a interest in RM Rovers in 1992 , so probably did but never recognised what it was all about..

I very much doubt if your toastie was tropicalized , for "T" you would avoid wood if at all possible. I would suggest it was in fact a early "winterized" , before the use of Plastazote / Hardura.. Anybody who has driven over Shap summit at -15C in a Land Rover will probably add a 1/4" ply liner to the drivers door panel the next time. I would suggest all your tub was lined with 1/4" ply - check your doors for screw evidence too..

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-13430747