ruxy

Same as a British L'wt. Any nomenclature plate still fitted (if original). From abt. 1980 with International VIN , plate on bulkhead centre (under bonnet) Chassis No. front offside dumbiron (in area above front spring mounting bolt) Engine - UK nearside , front of BLOCK , machined face, (look in area of water pump / front corner of cylinder head - you should see it).

A trailer on plate - FL , would be about 1972 / 73 , having said that - a exception, IIRC some ambulances (101") were later DIS.

The last of the "narrow-tracks" , were built abt. 1975 , IIRC on a "GB" plate There are a few minor detail differences. 1. No brass baler hex. plugs at underside corners (to shut & float as dinghy). 2. The tub bodyside plates are "lay-flat" and spot-welded on. 3. The transom has a flap a) used for sticking a stand pipe for tap when a bowser tank fitted. b) reliably informed that this was in fact opened to sink the trailer fast when deep water wading off landing craft , Lightweights had upper tailgate removed to sink fast for 4 x4 , other Land Rovers had the tail-gate lowered & fitted with struts. Shortly after came the Mk.1 "wide-track" with tailgate , mechanically same as last of line narrowtrack , A frame , drum brakes , IIRC - same leg stands. === ISTR - the earliest 3/4 ton narrowtrack (Mk3) that I have had was on a EN plate. abt. 1964

Shot blast to SIS (Swedish Standard) SA 2.5 (white metal) - then use what the oil majors have used on rigs in the North Sea (for ever) Leighs , when climate conditions are correct. http://www.leighspaints.com/en/Default.aspx I would probably opt. for Epigrip zinc rich primer (pile it on) followed by whatever (probably because this is what I have experience of) , probably a Epigrip 2 pack finish of at least 40 micron dft. Probably best if you ask their advise for primer & a good oil & fuel (when dry) resisting .. You should be able to pick up a Elcometer museum piece for little £. http://www.elcometer.com/coating-thickness-gauge

IMHO (but I am not a medic) the material would have to be Titanium,gold, stainless steel. The zinc on the screws would be stripped very soon, water content in body = rust = tetnus . A pair of the thingies - they seem like horse shoe shaped paper clips , or are they for holding coffin trim ? Many of the bent bits could be industrial staples for chipboard / trim ? Some roundish thingies could be big buckshot ?

Does seem just possible :- 1937 abt. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_F._Phillips http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozidriv#Pozidriv

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/newstopics/howaboutthat/9618342/War-heros-cremation-leaves-huge-pile-of-shrapnel.html Hard to believe if that is the actual metal, some thingies seem like curtain hooks, were Pozidriv / Philiphs type screw heads around during WW2 ? Most strange..

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-19958588 Fine (in theory) , until loads of ££££ needs to be found.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2216013/The-Battle-Bonhams-Rare-chance-buy-iconic-WWII-fighter-1-7m-Hawker-Hurricane-goes-auction.html

Hhmm I have his "B" Series book and this one :- http://www.alibris.co.uk/booksearch.detail?invid=9368363358&qauth=Pat+Ware&browse=3&first=1&qsort=&page=1 Looks like appreciating as I only paid about £6 + P&P , 3 years or so ago - eBay close-out (Jeep book specialist).. Possibly he has given himself the task of all the military Land Rovers to date , missing out the Jeep & Champ this time LoL

MVS was 50:50 owned by Leaversley International (just down the road at Lichfield) and Marshall (Cambridge) , ISTR their involvement was something to do with loss of a ambulance contract (Pinzgauer portal axles could function in a Balkan winter). Arguably - MVS disposed of the S3 fleet and spares in a efficent manner for the tax payer , possibly no longer the case , presently a fork truck is used under the chassis LoL

It is interesting following a thread like this, my computer is now 7 years old , as long as it works - fine, however because I am not a IT person I am making a note of certain points. Basically I would not like to make changes on my existing computer in case I RAX thingies ul totally. So - it is a matter of timing , however you can not anticipate a failure and when it will be beyond economic repair. So considering a new computer, major changes to me will be easier at that stage , end existing contracts when new up & running & satisfied.. 1. My service provider for broadband is AOL , possibly I can get better & cheaper. 2. I use McAfee (additional fee monthly with payment to AOL) , it certainly slows the machine right down on a Friday when it does the deep weekly check , I am reliably informed that the FREE AVG is adequate ?? 3. However , the main problem I have experienced in 14 years on internet is not virus that I know of , early days I used Norton. The problem for me - it was MALWARE. This totally wrecked the computer , the way out was paying a ransom of abt. £30 6 monthly for Enigma Spyhunter 4. On a new computer - then I will discontinue the payment for Spyhunter 4 , I am reliably informed that the FREE MalwareBytes is adequate. Spyhunter 4 , apparently loads Windows in a different way , something to avoid Rootkits - IT people may explain what this is. Googling on Spyhunter 4 - difficult to get to the real truth about it , but as I say - my experience is MALWARE , how that differs from a Virus - I don't know..

The Land Rover : Workhorse to the World. by Graham Robson (1976) , I would say is correct. The very first prototypes were certainly not pure Rover, by any means ,, To save time, a Jeep chassis was used under the vehicle, mostly with Rover designed fittings ,, This is considered to be "the" 1947 "centre-steer" prototype ---- I would have to study up again :- The Early Years by Tony Hutchins and Land Rover : The Early Years by John Smith - I am certain between these books the correct story is present ---- ISTR , things are a little unclear and there is no true definative history at this stage prior to the "pre-pros" , IIRC considered opinion is there were more than one prototype and "the" "centre-steer" evolved into a normal RH steer and thus was lost..

80" twee , unsorted esp. steering ,design of steering tested by buyers 86" better , most things sorted, more usable S2 - I prefer slab-sides , early diesel set ball rolling + 2.1/4 pet & diesel , diesel OK if not in a hurry or live in the hills S2A - progressive improvements over 10 years I have a Rover 10 88" and a 109" , 109" 1961 & No.66 - both working pick-ups. The 109" is always going to be the better ride , a 88" is a brain bruiser but has a better turning circle 2A 109" chassis construction - probably better than the pressed clamshell S3 design. Mid 1960's chassis steel quality dropped off and again late 1970's due to BOSS LD converter steel (high scrap & thus impurity). The main thing with any metal dash Rover is that the cab is very open (unlike the S3 plastic dash where you are closed in - I have a 88" S3 CL) As I prefer slab-sides and military - it had to be the Lightweight , I have had all models & ages (and still do ) other than a S2A with wing head-lamp boxes - why when compared against a S3 ? Also I have not had a last of line KD - this was 24 volt but not FFR (bit pointless unless you are the RAF ,still plenty of time and I know of a good one) Best Lightweight - probably KA (abt. 1983) or newer , why - best gearboxes, best engine (5mb) 11" front drums (that you need) high level seat belts & anti-burst door locks , of course being Meccano you can DIY your exact spec. Oh ,, I do have a 90" Ex-MOD but hardly a true Rover. ps. The S3 steering is far superior to the earlier Series LoL IMHO of course - but you did ask ..

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/6140/ETC8442-CAMSHAFT-BEARING.html?search=90519054&page=1 S/S 90519054 S/S 519054 1 QTY. REQUIRED. Split sleeve type, spec. white metal on coppered steel backing , due to S/S the actual spec. may be slightly different , normally change to spec. / OEM then No. change. 1.843" ID x 1.972" OD x 0.968" long (wider front bearing , oil hole) == http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/2167/90519055-ENGINE-CAMSHAFT-BEARING-REAR.html?search=519055&page=1 S/S 519055 3 QTY. REQUIRED. Seems , this remains on Defenders from 1987 onwards Split sleeve type , -as above- 1.843" ID x 1.972" OD x 0.750" long -------- Obviously the CI block is line-bored on a transfer machine , the split-sleeve construction allows very easy insertion , they are very concentric and round, the thickness is accurate and will have no deviation beyond 0.0001". When fitted the inner dia. is correct. Obviously the way they are fitted (and care taken) over the 4 qty. beaings - you could get a very small misalignment, THUS TO REAM YOU ARE HARDLY REMOVING ANY WHITE METAL , probably only 0.002" at a edge of a bearing. Oil a old cam insert & turn and you can get this right , check with micrometer blue for any tight / high spot - remove with a small scraper. Try old cam for free moving (apply oil) , then do the same with a new cam. NB. A "genuine" cam is linished on the edges of the lobes & journals (they do a good job but expensive) , aftermarket replacements - seen a few and they are always as sharp as a blade - so stone off or risk damage to shells. If the new cam is still a bit tight (not often) , then this is where I use another old cam I have converted to a safe reamer (grooves ground journals) - de-grease to cut dry, does not need the care of the V.L. Churchill reamer and IMHO is far superior. No changes 3mb to 5mb block , there could be a change to bearings etc. on later Defenders , would guestimate of age of engine + your VIN to delve into the Defender parts book that are a total PITA for "change points" and I only have the 1987 to 2001 on , Cat. in any case if your are newer.

========= The camshaft PROFILES are the SAME - IT IS THE THREAD IN THE END OF THE CAMSHAFT THAN CAN BE DIFFERENT (as previously stated). Quite a involved subject , best to restrict to your own header :- Land Rover 2.5NA diesel cam bearings Help Please! ---------- In theory your cam is probably :- http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/6083/ETC7128-4-CYLINDER-ENGINE-CAMSHAFT.html?search=erc5475&page=1 Now - take note of all the part number supercessions :- S/S ETC8383 S/S ERC5475 S/S ETC8416 S/S ERR222 For simplicity - best not to go into this. The simple fact is this :- When the 5mb engines were introduced , later versions (petrol and diesel) were fitted with a metric THREAD camshaft (this was all part of the process of so called "metrication" - to the stage of what is known as a "fully metricated engine" (that it is not). At this stage the camshaft was stamped with a D (diesel) and was ERC5475 (now discontinued). So a person who purchased this metric camshaft (if he had a "imperial" or part metricated engine) - reason also these can be a huge difference in £ PRICE of imperial & metric "genuine" camshafts , then this person - he could not fit his sprocket securing bolt - to cater for this situation is the "Service Kit" RTC2957 kit , if you check your parts book - then this kit you will find consists of a set-bolt ETC4141 (IIRC with thread-lock applied) and a washer ETC4140 (original washer 9093 , tab-locker 9210 & original set SH606071L that was 3/8" UNF - THESE WOULD BE THROWN AWAY). Land Rover would sell you (or the successors to V.L. Churchill) tools to extract the camshaft LoL , they will even tell you to buy a special reamer. Land Rover will suggest you use this - as they will tell you to buy all sorts of special insertion tools and even special tools to withdraw the camshaft !! LoL. I can tell you that to set up on a horizontal borer and clock in the set-up would be a total waste of time. I have told how it is in fact done , carefully pull in the shells using your loaf ,if you have access to a lathe - make your own stepped bushes for the threadbar,use a old worn cam oiled to check alignment + a little swaging (turning) to correct any misalignment, micrometer blue check, use a old camshaft modified to reamer. As such the shells do not have a machining allowance LoL.

With the correct bearings , you don't need the big reamer , in fact - you will probably wreck the new bearings. You use an old cam (unless you intend to give loads of £ to V.L. Churchill) & your loaf - NOT the books , there is hardly any reaming allowance in any case. You fit the bearings using a length of thread-bar , washers , plates - whatever , using a old cam to swage any mis-alignment of the white-metal. Any reaming - Grind a groove down the faces of the old cam-shaft.

How are you ordering, a set of 4 is 3qty the same & one different dims. http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/2166/90519054-5-CAMSHAFT-BEARING-SET.html?search=90519054&page=1 === Only difference with a metric & a imperial cam (other than genuine / non-genuine is price) - it is the thread to secure the sprocket. There is a conversion kit

Gunnery was ship re-cycled more than you would ever imagine, or used as a shore gun , alternative was storage until ! Wards would sell you a complete cinema - if they could :- http://billward.eu/cinema_stonehouse/index_cinema.html There must be all sorts saved around the Uk

Apparently (I had a good wander around their yard when there on business) ,, Thos. W Ward Ltd Shipbreaking operations @ Inverkeithing - they had very early "green" credentials for re-cycling as much as possible by craning off & sale. Only what was real scrap went to the melt , then probably stock for more modern ships

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2192511/The-gold-plated-revolver-used-Hermann-Goering-surrender-allies-resurfaces-sale-30-000.html

You need to register at the ExMLRA & view this thread :- http://forum.emlra.org/viewtopic.php?t=4149&highlight=france Explains a fair bit of the Sankey specific complexity if you are a resident of France or Germany where trailers must be registered etc. This is as experienced by Forum members. As a tourist - traveling through - don't know !! ?

======== = spurious --- Timken = 359S / 354X Bearing/race

Wheel hub studs ?? There was a Widetrack pdf. Parts List for all Mk. on the Leo Mocce website , bit of an annoyance what ! Removed - his site has been taken off server for USA infringements - seems ripping off & listing for free to many publishing info. copyrite others.

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/20121/9501057-WHEEL-HUB-BEARING.html?search=9501057&page=1 ---- ISTR the Legacy is going back to "Narrow Track" Rubery Owen days and commonality with Austin FV.1800 Champ hubs & drum brakes , not Land Rover ,,. However it does X ref. with Rover & Unipart No. http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/10629/RTC3416-INNER-HUB-BEARING.html?search=217269&page=1 Obviously Timken or SKF , not Chinese for regular hard & overloaded use. Rather than a LM type grease for packing - I would probably use a better Rocol product