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  • Location
    Katy, Texas
  • Interests
    4x4, motorcycling, mountain walking,
  • Occupation
    Subsea Engineer, offshore oil & gas
  1. Sorry Clive I should have re read your guide before asking my previous question "Note that this is not some sort of 10-volt transformer or converter, it is simply a resistor. When the contact breaker closes a current flows through the ignition coil and the filter box resistor. The resistor is designed to produce a voltage drop so that 10 volts will be supplied to the coil. This voltage must not be siphoned off in an attempt to supply a radio or CD player. When the contact breaker opens there will be no voltage drop and virtually the full 24 volts will be presented to any accessories that have been attached to the filter box output."
  2. So I'm checking the circuit prior to hooking up my 24v trigger module in the distributor as I had a short on my first try and if I put my multimeter on the screened output lead core from the filer box with the ignition on I should see around 10V, but I'm actually seeing around 24V. Am I making a basic error or what is a typical failure mode for the filter box to cause this. Thanks
  3. Thanks Chaps for the insights, now I understand better what I'm dealing with the next challenge ideally is to integrate it with the existing hardware, which is where I'm struggling. The screened cables and connections do not lend themselves to easy modification. I'm a Brit living in the US and as such my truck is offroaded in the canyons and mountains of Nm, Arizona and Colorado, up passes in excess of 12,000ft as I use it adventuring. I'm not a purist who seeks to keep the engine bay 100% authentic, but I am trying to retain my perception of the OFFROAD robustness of the screened system particularly, but is there any merit in that really? Has any one adapted the existing military ignition system to maintain the robustness or just reverted to the civvy 12v equivalent coil and distributor. Thoughts welcomed Thanks Fraser
  4. I'm trying to convert my 1979 S3 Lwt FFR vehicle to pointless ignition by retrofitting a 24v magnetically triggered module, from Jolley Engineering, as I was under the wrong impression it would be a relatively easy task.. So I can understand what I'm up against I thought it prudent to seek any expert advice I may be able to garner from a site such as this one. I've been told that the ignition system is actually stepped down to 12v from the "black box" mounted on the valve cover to the coil and onward to the distributor. Can anyone initially confirm this to be true and if so point me (no pun intended) to any documentation which may show and explain the workings of this system. Thanks in advance Fraser
  5. Hey Fellas I've just bought a Snatch bull bar and wanted to ask if anyone has any detailed photos showing the correct orientation of the centre mesh section as it would appear it can be mounted the correct way or "back to front". I've searched the web but cannot find really close up shots of this assembly in service showing this detail. Then the second question is does anyone have the parts diagram for the tyre mount hardware they might share. Thanks in advance Fraser
  6. Thanks very much for the info. When you say at an angle to the engine what do you mean please and as I don't have the vehicle handy to look at where was the original air filter mounted? This vehicle also has a pair of Wolf side air intakes, do you happend to know if its just a case of attaching a large bore hose to connect them with a Y-piece to interconnect? Cheers Fraser
  7. I've just bought a Donaldson air filter which I believe is standard on a WOLF to retrofit to my recently acquired D110 fitted with a 300Tdi engine. My questions are of the two large hose connections, one concentric with the axis of the filter the other at right angles on the base which is for air in and which is for clean air out? Typically how is the filter mounted to the body as I've seen a photo of one lying horizontally on the offside side of the engine, by the injector pump? So should the filter be mounted vertically or horizontally? What is the purpose of the much smaller pipe on the filter lid which to me looks like a clogged filter bypass pipe fitted with rubber shroud, to prevent water induction perhaps? Finally what is the purpose of the very small externally threaded pipe on the base? presumably a drain, if so does the tube connecting it need to go anywhere particular or just allow drain off by gravity? Thanks in advance Fraser
  8. Richard What is your guidance as to the plug gap for the RSN12Y plug for the application previously described? Thanks Fraser
  9. Thanks fellas for the initial responses, the plot thickens as nearly always it does. I will be replacing with Champion RSN12s. The engine is the 8:1CR type. Cheers Fraser
  10. Can someone please confirm if the plug gap is .014"-.018" or .028"-.032" just the MoD user manual quotes both. As I'm about to ditch the old plugs just want to make sure I gap the new ones correctly. Thanks
  11. Greetings from across the pond, on a cool, but sunny day in Texas. By way of introduction, I'm an Brit and have lived out here 15 years and am the proud owner of 1/2t FFR Lightweight 18HF09 and soon to arrive 1986 TUM 110 with 300Tdi. Active as event coordinator in the local club www.houstonlandroverclub.com and keen on expedition travel in the US. For example have taken the lightweight over a couple of passes over 14,000ft in Colorado and plan to take the TUM into the Arctic circle in Canada at some stage in the future. Also enjoy motorcycling both on and off road, as well as back country walking as it is better known out here. Looking forward to being a member of the HMVF, recognised as an outstanding source of knowledge on military vehicles. Best regards to all Sincerely Fraser Gourlay
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