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ruxy

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Everything posted by ruxy

  1. This is all old ground (pressure) , one of the best basic references is from page 138 of OFF ROAD HANDBOOK with back country travel tips. by Bob Waar 1975. ISBN 0-912656-15-8 . Obviously an American publication but they are more into tyres (or should I say tires). Has all the theoretical , how to arrive at your "net-to-gross contact ratios" etc. Basically you ink the tire and lay a sheet of paper over a sheet of alloy or steel or ply or whatever and drive over it, no need for string at all..
  2. Hhhmmmm http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25-Pounder-Shovel-GS-1942-25Pdr-/320719708592?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D1043560908785011812&_qi=RTM742988
  3. Probably this one , there is a load more of it somewhere :- http://www.m201.com/ITM/ITM.htm ------- http://www.hotchkissm201.fr/
  4. I would expect on modern pumps with all the gubbins that it would have a volumetric flow rate meter (turbine in fuel line) BUT interlocked with something like a mass flow rate meter that would detect the presence of air at any point in the delivery and go to automatic lock-out..
  5. If you are taking a delivery of central heating oil , often it is on a long hose. The metered amount on the meter print off includes that which is in the hose. If you are not present to witness the content in the hose being blow into your tank - then a unscrupulous delivery driver can blow it into another tank compartment.. A bit like a lad I knew who worked in a garage , he used to brag he never put petrol in his own motorbike tank because he drained the U bend in the hoses after drivers left the forecourt.
  6. Unless a pre-determined amount is selected prior to delivery - then they can't use a metering pump as such (like with a central heating oil delivery tanker that blows the pipe clear (but I understand that can be frigged) , however they have a fair bit of kit inside the cabinet and with Trading Standard spot checks - if it was possible then I think it would have been highlighted years ago and pumps have not stood still , the £ advances at a fair rate but I mean the designs http://www.gilbarco.eu/en/product_1.aspx
  7. The washers at the rear of the switch for Lucar terminal blade staking - they seem to be tin coated steel , believe me this is the main problem (much more so than burnt out internals) , test across for high resistance , give the washer a light tap with a terminal driver & toffee hammer to shatter the dissimilar metal corrosion. This gets most of them away again for several years.. http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk/Infrared.html
  8. Have a look at Bob Morrisons book - for actual period photographs.. http://www.books-by-isbn.com/1-873564/1873564023-British-Land-Rovers-in-the-Gulf-Bob-Morrison-1-873564-02-3.html They used whatever they could get their hands on , every shade from "Light Desert Sand / Stone" to Banana yellow - YES BANANA YELLOW !! , also plenty of photographs of pink/sand tigerstripe dp .. Op Granby Op Telic would be better prepared for finishing - CARC finish Light Stone but probably others..
  9. Like I said - a bit mind boggling as to early late bracket & how mounted to late bracket , take a couple of Asprin and then read the following http://forum.emlra.org/viewtopic.php?t=5382&highlight=pdwa+valve as a "Initial" aid to identification if you wish to obtain the correct valve/switch/seal kit to fit to existing pipework or overhaul a old valve. Likewise if doing a full re-pipe - then always best to keep with the design of valve for that time-line rather than ad hoc - there are good reasons , one being that you don't want a total Pick-N-Mix of tubing nut threads & SAE / DIN flaring. None of the catalogues give accurate change points of design of valve or in fact cover all the Solihull as builds. Due to metrication (cylinders stayed UNF) - best to limit the changes to a minimum, metric to UNF at the bridge pipe (as Rover did)
  10. Oh - so yours is earlier ! I wonder if there was on published after the March 1981 version ? Have to check , possibly not as the Mid 1980 brake changes can / should be accessed from the S3 Parts Catalogues ( mine is June 1988 - but probably one between '80 & '88)..
  11. Yes Wayne. What Optional Catalogue have you there ? Rover No. & date ? It is a bit later (part numbers - some are s/s later) than in RTC 9842CB dated March 1981. Probably I need to update my book as the 11" front brakes & later braking is from Mid-1980..
  12. =========================== What you must remember is that all the way through the 1970's (until mid 1980) the civvy 88" and mil. CL 88" only had single line brakes. You could have dual line on a civvy BUT it had to be ordered and paid for from the "Optional Extras". Civilian 88" & mil. CL 88" after mid. 1980 had dual brakes as standard fitment. At this time-line the Lightweight and civvy 88" / CL 88" moved from 10" dia. front brakes to 11" dia front brakes. A 1 into 2 splitter was mounted on the front of the chassis to serve near & offside front brakes , from this point on the PDWA went from 5 port to 4 port. ------ With a early Lightweight having 10" dia. front brakes it is better to work in the main with the civilian "Optional Parts Catalogue" RTC 9842CB March 1981, if you have good mil. L'wt parts Catalogues - then you can also cross-reference as a double check. The Lightweight uses a manual "Brake Test" button / Warning indicator in the centre of the instrument panel. ------ With later Lightweights having "rationalized" axles having the 11" dia. drum brakes , then you use the dual line braking diagrams & parts numbers from such as RTC 9841CE June 1988 civvy parts catalogue. At this time there was a change in the bulkhead main harness for such as rear fog guard lamps. You lost the vacuum servo low vacuum switch and manual brake "Test" switch but gained automatic ignition start up brake check via. a additional FV relay.. Well - that is the basic bones of it - you have to take care to identify what you have , from shape of PDWA mounting bracket early or late , and if secured with one bolt or two , and switch to top or bottom. It is a pity you did not photograph the shuttle valve & pipe runs before dismantling - or did you ??
  13. Valves are available but they always have been expensive. Switches for 4 port differ from 5 port (thread size IIRC) the seak kit also is different. The switch for the 4 port is 64677381 (I suspect this is Lucas Girling part |No. LV6MT9/2530-99-822-6377 -------- Seal kit is SP2615 ----------------------------------------------- The spool never moves unless there is fluid loss on one line, in theory the seal should never wear but they can deteriorate with age so best to renew seals if you re-pipe. Fluid can get line to line , and leak line to line - I know somebody who lost all brakes like this.. Also (I forget if early or late valve) one is noted for fluid getting into the part of the barrel where the centering ball is - then it is possible for the fluid to escape via. the switch threads (Unless the switch is loose) - I suppose this must be a very slow loss. Some people do away with the valve - I prefer to keep it, when bleeding - if you press the pedal too hard - then you can displace the spool, just release a nipple on the other line & a quick tap on the brake pedal gets it in centre again to take the brake failure lamp off..
  14. Go to ARCO and ask for 3" Dunlop GACORD , the 3" is nominal bore - the actual will be 2-3mm larger and that is what you have measured.. GACORD is what is specified for the larger dia. Land Rover winterized water hoses..
  15. ======================== Take an Asprin or two first,, http://forum.emlra.org/viewtopic.php?t=5382&highlight=pdwa+valve
  16. http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=ru&tl=en&twu=1&u=http://twower.livejournal.com/568351.html This Russian helicopter museum looks interesting - the Mi-1 from 1948 looks quite sleek & modern for immediate post WW2..
  17. ============ There are a few variations of the Lightweight PDWA , in fact if you are into rivet counting on the subject I once posted a few ID photographs on the Ex-MLRA , ISTR on the BLOG of the build up belonging norcoatomique . There are thread differences IIRC early is in fact metric but the later is UNF.. The much later single end cap type IIRC uses the ISO bubble flare on pipe-work but the very early / early does not.. There are two early types (but you are not likely to see the very early version) , they have hex. threaded ends at both ends (easier to push the spool out) with 5 pipe ports and mounted with the switch on top of the valve. Secured to bracket with 2 bolts. The very early tpe was used up to about 1973. Valve Part No. 64066420 Switch 74660145 -------- The later type is from about 1975/76 is mounted with the switch on the same bracket but IIRC using only 1 bolt and the switch is mounted on the bottom-side. This has only one hex. machined & threaded end-cap (I would have to check - there may in fact be two versions of this valve). THIS SEEMS TO BE YOUR PDWA. So it is probably valve 64068853 and switch 64677381. This valve has 4 ports because there is a brass "T" splitter fitting on the inside of the front (No.2 Cross-member) - that splits fluid to near & offside front brakes.. In a way the PDWA is biggest puzzle on a Lightweight to correctly identify. However - if you have a Spitfire Mk. 1V / 1500 , TR6 , Maxi, or even a Marina - you can rob one off it.. The switch is probably a makers part No. (not a Rover no.) Girling ? seems dated at 4-4-1975 ,, or possibly not.
  18. Wasted taxpayers money on French deck launch obsolescence , Trident boats as a launch platform for the new F-15 Submerged Launch Aircraft
  19. http://www.strathspey-herald.co.uk/news/fullstory.php/aid/5232/Wartime_wagon__is_restored_to_former_glory.html Is the pole very short for display purpose or would a pair have been used with a long trunk chained to both ?
  20. http://www.iwmcollections.org.uk/dbtw-wpd/exec/dbtwpub.dll?AC=NEXT_RECORD&XC=/dbtw-wpd/exec/dbtwpub.dll&BU=&TN=Uncat&SN=AUTO8716&SE=5108&RN=2&MR=25&TR=0&TX=1000&ES=0&CS=1&XP=&RF=salResultsThumb&EF=&DF=salDetails&RL=0&EL=0&DL=0&NP=1&ID=&MF=WPENGMSG.INI&MQ=&TI=0&DT=&ST=0&IR=0&NR=0&NB=0&SV=0&BG=0&FG=0&QS=
  21. Both Landys - look at the one with the red bumper, the rear tub cappings are coated with paint over galv. factory finish , to my eyes could be dusty DBG or OD
  22. Try replacing the first phone socket in the house (filter socket) . A MK one from B&Q is about £4 - worked for me.
  23. 'Waikaha' a very important Chevrolet now at IWM.. http://wdrg.org/album/displayimage.php?album=1&pos=0
  24. I have had them and a IT savy person can get rid of some easy. However the one that seems to be very malicious is called "Antispywaredoctor" - it is in fact a rogue antispyware application (rogueware).. Apparently the free version of Malwarebytes can sort out many. Antispywaredoctor wrecks your machine from a very early stage by what are known "redirects" , every keystroke you make it - it informs you and suggests your computer needs its treatment. Normally malware is less vicious. . It is a international crime - demanding money with menaces. In my case - to get control of my computer again - I enrolled for Spyhunter4 (from USA) , it costs £33 every 6 months , the cost may not be very clear and they add VAT although they are US based ? . Of course Antispywaredoctor wants you to sign up for their treatment (apparently Russian ) , I don't know how much it costs - but of course they get your card details. I Gooooogled up on "Redirects" , and they can be very common , apparently Google were challenged , they can stop it BUT they stated they were not prepared to. It is all about sales commission - if you were to buy goods via. a re-direct. What it seems to boil down with - these Search Engines you use - there is no such thing as a free lunch..
  25. That is the self & same tech. data sheet that as far as I can determine is on their present web-site ,, seems the person at Thompsons who answered the enquiry does not know what they are talking about. Two years ago I emailed Ronseal (Sherwin Williams) and asked if their metal paint (similar to ICI Hammerite) contained silicone oil - they said no.. A few weeks later they contacted me again and stated in fact that it did contain silicone oil. A bit too late as I had used it , quite high in silicone oil I would say but it seems to wash off the surface after about 1 year exposure..
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