===========
QUOTE.
"reversing" the sateen fabric in order that the duller (inside) was on the outer
----
And this is where you are going wrong , if you are going to write a book - then I suggest you consult with such as a Textile Technician.
The "sateen" you mention refers to the surface finish of the cloth , the long strand probably on the outside of the shell and the duller (this is the cord that is on the inside , but may not - I think it is decided on the wicking required ).
In my book , from my limited knowledge of cloth - sateen or satin is a totally different fabric , a term given to a relatively common lining material or bedding sheets.
Such as Grenfell cloth or Ventile cloth is in fact a expensive long-staple Egyptian cotton , processed and woven for wind-proof quality and a certain amount of water proofing but remaining breathable by natural means when worn.
IMHO , the post-WW2 MOD jackets (the subject of this thread) were a similar but inferior and thus cheaper cloth.
The last U.S.A. manufactured Alpha Ind. M65 jackets were 65% poly / 35% cotton , I understand the genuine Alpha Ind. M65 jackets are now in fact manuf. in PRC and are from NYCO.