ruxy

---------- This was a tester on a cheap , obsolete Bromwade Compair "Automotive" range , maide in Taiwan , sort of copy of a Trelawney. I normally use expensive Swiss manuf. anti-vibe scalers. Crusty rust but under hard on ,but also some sound paint that was harder to bray off , I allowed 15 min per wheel inc. a quick go over with P40 production paint. Performance almost as good as a true industrial scaler , for 1.1/2 hours work - I would prefer to do it that way as setting up for shot-blasting & clean up after would take longer. My moto - never blast if you can needle. btw , don't worry about rubber tyres the needles just bounce off (same as shot) LoL

Some primers are intended to key on better to a "flash rust" or a bit of mixed surfaces - rather than white metal, probably you should enquire about this.

Title Re: Paint removal - needle gunning -------------- A needle gun is useless for removal of good sound paint, you are expecting too much off the wrong tool. You need rust scale between sound metal and the paint. You can with chisel points clean to SIS Sa2.5 / 3 (mechanical means - because the standard allows the option) BUT it is obviously going to take much much longer. Normally you would stop short and sweep blast - if you require white metal. With the right primer - you hardly need obtain white metal standard in any case , you would aim for "near white metal" - abt. Sa2.5 / 3 . Blast cleaning rust is far quicker than blast cleaning off sound paint, unless you have the very best gear available. Often a matter of interpretation - most often not in ideal place / circumstances.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-22721897

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2330258/Tank-sale-Nazi-war-tank-discovered-drug-dealers-garden-police-raid-auctioned-5-000.html

I know of 1 fatality because no precautions such as cage were used , abt. 1980. ==== According to ATS - Euromaster :- Our current experience is that we have 1 truck tyre explosion per 21,000 inflations. Using HSE's tolerability of risk model (HSE 1992) that is 'negligible'. ------------------ SOURCE. Our Approach to Safe Truck Tyre Inflation - Preston City Council http://www.preston.gov.uk/GetAsset.aspx?id... Our Cardinal Rules include truck tyre inflation and they outline the hierarchy for inflation: – In a tyre safety cage. – Bolted back onto a vehicle. – Restrained using ...

Possibly the premesis are subject of PUWER ??? http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1998/2306/contents/made The words "risk assessment" come to mind.. ,, because of course - nothing specific in HSE Publication HSG261 Purchasing a NEW cage , then one would consider they come under the "Machinery Directive" , BUT some may & some may not. Purchasing one NEW , then one would assume it would be "CE" marked , BUT that means little without close scrutiny of all documents to back up that claim of suitability for "CE" marking LoL (Declaration of Conformity AND Instructions in English language at minimum). Constructing own , then "design assessment" comes to mind and this could be very expensive. I doubt if there is any British Standards or E Conformity , DIN or anything. Buying used of unknown origin or known origin - that all the words preceding apply..

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/history/world-war-two/10067006/Visitors-flout-ban-on-wearing-Nazi-uniforms-to-WWII-event.html

DM (up-dated) http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2324672/Idiotic-pair-pick-unexploded-2ft-bombs-washed-ashore--sell-scrap-metal.html

Well ,, it goes to show , even on a Forum like this where you would expect a early agreement on positive identity - not so ! Clearly a need for warning notices to be observed , I just hope those concerned are soon identified - the police should be able to find some just cause for a appearance in a magistrates court ???

Could be electrical or mechanical. Could be dry & stiff belts on rusted Vee pulleys if it has stood a while. A pair of new cog belts will help in all respects & polish up the Vee pulley grooves a bit. User manuals state bearings are packed in grease XG271 on assembly and require no additional lubrications between major overhauls of the unit. The front bearing is bigger and a spl. by Prestolite / Leece Neville. However :- Seel Items 15 + 16 LoL , described as - aluminium washer & screw plug. First - what I suggest is - remove 15 + 16 , add a few drops of gear oil , if the noise reduces , then mix a slury of Ep90 & CV joint grease and get some in.

WW2 history has many facets, lottery cash does not come easy for projects. We now have the Google Blitz census map for London :- http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-2243951/The-astonishing-interactive-map-EVERY-bomb-dropped-London-Blitz.html Depends on what you consider is WW2 history worthy of preservation. In NE where I live (S/W Co. Durham) there were quite a few incendary & oil bombs dropped - no trace today other than the odd IB casing in private hands, you see the photograph when a local owner takes it into a primary school history lesson. Myself - since teens - I have been interested where the HE bombs landed , info. often only available word of mouth Tthat generation are now dead) any trace left ? - not often , at best a deep water filled hole with a stock-proof fence around. ---- The house I have lived for the last 20 years , when digging the garden I kept picking up bits of metal , pondering the curved shape & ragged edges , muttering - no bombs dropped around here & kept chucking them in the beck LoL Then one day I came across this :- http://www.ne-diary.bpears.org.uk/ In particular :- Monday, 28th/Tuesday, 29th October 1940 N422 00.40 .. Co Durham.. Howden Bank.. One HE fell at Howden Bank leaving a large crater. No injuries - windows of the local Police Sergeant's house broken. I had a sinking feeling , my sons - I once heard refer to the private owned pair of semi up the hill as - the police Sergeants houses (because the locals still did) , also that they had swimmed in a deep pool that is fenced off . This hole is incorrectly described on post WW2 O.S. maps as a colliery reservoir ! So - here we have WW2 history that has looked after itself for the last 70 years at no cost , probably never be filled in . Possibly in 50 years time - may need a lottery grant for preservation as the last known WW2 bomb hole left in Co. Durham !

ISTR this was mentioned last year , now it seems - serious action. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2318808/Last-surviving-Second-World-War-Dornier-bomber-raised-watery-grave-70-years-biggest-recovery-kind.html

Generally - I would agree , you will get the die-hards who stick to SAE 30 in winter & SAE 40 in summer. It took Volkswagen until about 1977 until they officially approved multi-grades in air-cooled engines. btw - you still get twits who believe SAE 30HD is in fact 30 (in High Detergent form). ============== However the arguments still go on QUOTE. Modern dispersant additives keep combustion chamber contamination suspended in the lubricant, allowing full flow cartridge filters to remove it. Early oil filtration, usually in the form of a mesh gauze or strainer, is not efficient enough to remove this suspended material. Golden Film Motor Oils are low dispersant oils and allow the suspended matter to drop harmlessly into the sump. from :- http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/scripts/prodview.asp?idcat=114&idProduct=165 Remember how you remove the strainer on a VW Beetle & types, clean the bottom plate of fine grey debris (ground up metals) LoL , new plate / strainer gaskets & copper washers. A straight 30 or 40 weight , in theory may be better, although a more modern high detergent oil (into a already clean engine) should retain all the £rap that is removed in full at next sump drain.

The doors do look on that sort of scale , a bit big for a S1 Landie. ISTR a Forum member bragging he had the contract to open & shut them. Now who was it ??

Many thanks Ted for the photograph of 53AM69 , dated at 1972 - obviously the truck was brand new so the pic is datable abt. IMHO - that is a RAF BLUE grey tilt - and that would confirm at that period in time such a hood existed.

You should have no charge at tick-over , the cut-out disconects. When revs increase and the dynamo voltage is larger than the battery voltage (approx. 13 volts) = you should be charging. Whilst on a alternator 15 volt should be considered overcharge (regulator inoperative) - thus danger of fire. With a genny - you need to be looking for a terminal voltage of 16 volts at full charge. To get something into the battery at this state - you need at least 18 volts from the genny. With a accurate voltmeter , remove the battery float charge (leave headlamps on for 3 to 4 min) . A good indication is to raise the revs - when the genny voltage is about same as battery voltage ( that you now know) , the charge warning should go out. This would indicate the genny is healthy , if your battery is going flat - then there are several causes that should be investigated before blaming the genny. You would more or less have to disconect the battery leave it overnight . If the voltage is low in the morning - blame the battery. If not , then re-connect the battery - if it is low voltage the next morning then you have leakage to earth somewhere , involving isolation of circuits to eliminate - then final zero in to the fault.

Are you certain the securing retention plate has 3 qty. little screws (2BA x 1/4" long) are present tightened fully home . IIRC the Britpart cable drive end was triangular , not square or &/or too short to engage the drive ..

BRITPART brand speedo cables always were a problem at the gearbox end. So easy to copy the original exact & yet there were a few detail differences that caused lack of drive , possibly ones of more recent manufacture are better - they must have had loads back for warranty claim LoL

=================== Nice photograph - I have saved it. Not able to date the "AA" VRM just now. Looking at the truck rear X member , etc. - I would say a Rover Mk. 6 (S2 (prior to 1961 approx. ). The external fill - also indicates a S2 Contract , NOTE the petrol / diesel nozzel protection patch (PVC) stitched to the hood (as civilian). So civvy spec. hood construction BUT there would be no civvy type part No. for a colour of RAF Blue/Grey ..

The Rover / MOD Parts Books are fine but in isolated locations are a bit dis-jointed and Hoods / Tilt thingies are one of these area. As far as I am aware , the duck & trim for RAF blue/grey has not been around for a good while. Possibly only Undercover Covers have any ?? The civvy blue would look truly awfull. In later years , there have been three shades of duck used for Army / Tri-Service Contracts Khaki, Olive Drab and Green , generally (but not always) these come lumped under the same Land Rover Part No. with a label Green (this is the case of genuine Land Rover trim-shop products with labels) - in any case they wash out & fade once the dressing with colour has gone - they all end up more or less faded to sand. I have a few genuine tilts (new) I keep for reference , some I have had for over 35 years and they are S2A, I have a note in a book somewhere with part No. & colour labels stapled in. The only other info. I have is on similar NOS S3 tilts , such as Sand , other labels just state Green (I would say Olive Drab) , the numbers tie up with Factory build up sheets I have that are 1979 / 1980 when the truck would be NATO green Tri-Service. Then you get such as :- FULL LENGTH HOOD See Pages 27-16 and 27-17 in RTC9009C (E1206) Hood Complete (27-14) 1. qty. Part No. 320876 (AD) (= additional) That would be a std. 88" FFR radio type hood I would suggest , if ever they had a new factory RAF blue / grey hood , then it was only when they left Solihull , after that it would be a olive drab one that may / may not be emulsion painted in RAF blue/grey.. That is probably the only practical solution. ------------ As you are aware the Army Parts Books had :- Army Code No. --- FOR USE IN THE ARMY ROYAL AIR FORCE Unless there was some supplementary parts book for sole use of RAF (that I doubt) , then they would have no Part No. to order on . Most such books don't even list Sand hoods for Army.

============= Not with Landie but with VW Beetles , the speedo head design will be similar. Speeds started to be indicated higher than actual , then needle zoooomed up the clock LoL Decided to investigate the speedo head, what I found was there are two metal discs (rotating) with a air-gap , one disc is part of the needle mechanism IIRC with a torsion spring for damping. What I found was that grease had got from drive cable Bowden and a little had entered the clock and got between the disc(s) , therefore there was no air-gap , just a part direct coupling to the needle with variable slippage , until there was too much grease and then the neele is solid & zooomes to end of scale..

As you are aware , the webbing & duck colour was available :- http://www.surplusandoutdoors.com/shop/army-surplus-uk/37-pattern-webbing/geunine-raf-small-pack-446140.html Documentary evidence of hoods available by way of Rover / MOD Parts books & literature - not so easy for me to come by. RAF (in service) - photographs are not easy to come by , esp for Lightweight

69AA79 tilt has not been emulsion painted , if it had - then the duck would be same colour as the seam tape ,,,,

Remains of shed extant - must have been a woody