ruxy

Must be a Hyster ? that era. Teledyne Continental was most popular.

I think with any flatty , in fact any old classic - I would be a bit extra proactive to eliminate possibility of trapping any air when filling with coolant - the overnight stand will assist this , I would treat like a known difficult head job (like a Fiat Punto). 1. Trickle the coolant in very very slowly , just like re-filling a power steering reservoir (do the bleed procedure badly and aerate the fluid or by bad filling , a overnight stand will clear the trapped bubbles). 2. Work the pump impeller , turn the Vee belt by hand / starting handle. 3. Remove , spark plugs and barr engine over lots with starter motor before firing up. 4. Jump up and down on the bumper and rock the car port/starboard. Of course , you don't have to remember the most important bit , you don't have a heater LoL

It may pay you to drive to a garage with a combustion gas leak detection kit + radiator pressure tester , could save a lot of hassle. Assuming no cracks , lots depends on maintenance of the block deck & cylinder head surface milled finish if found to be flat , you need gasket grip. Was it a good gasket - I think I would have gone for something USA , like a FEL-PRO (Federal Mogul) ? If somebody has cleaned faces with a drag scraper or similar rather than a soak-off , then a better budget job chance would be a modern gasket with elastomer sealant beads + clean head/block faces with meths. What type of gasket construction did you use ? Regardless of deck / head RA finish , both fresh or a mix fresh cut / old , a chat on the subject at Cleasby Crank counter may pay and let them supply the head gasket . With modern cars due to time / cost if it goes wrong , I normally use a genuine manufacturer head gasket or the OEM if established. BGA Automotive from factors normally supply good aftermarket stuff in their kits but I doubt if they supply side-valve Jeep , arguably in odd cases some of their stuff falls short. BGA also supply top manufacturer OEM parts at low cost too. There are total rubbish Chinese cardboard head gaskets out there on eBay etc. as well as brand rip-off.

You have to count Part 1 , this means 6 days this has been running. Benefit of doubt , then consider as "Primary Source" however there is only hearsay , no primary evidence - despite people asking for auction details of plate lots sale - zilch . andy brown is capable of doing a Google search on military M6 or better still for images , he should never be tech. info. short as he presented. If andy brown considers the response by Degsy in any way substantiates these claims - clearly it does not. IMHO it is time for a moderator to shut this thread down because it comes across as a discomfiture to read it , if andy brown is ever able to return with Part 3 with the slightest form of actuality , then fine by me. I expect incoming - like you don't have to read it , yes that is correct..

https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/485216/pmho0402bgsh_e_e.pdf

Chatted up by the cyclist on a tandem

1947 making between £70 and £140 pounds , that was a lot of money (certainly buy a house in the pit village I originated , or was that a street of houses ) , hardly a domestic or commercial model and what with petrol rationing. My old man must have spent most of his de-mob payout by then - he could only afford a Norton 500cc side-valve , he must have saved ££ for the side-car that came in 1948 along with my elder sister (I arrived 1950) ,,

You know , there are some people at this very min. watching for overnight frost - on lunch break from furiously mixing concrete for foundation preparations for a type 24 , that will double up as a paint / oil / thinners store.

http://www.scran.ac.uk/database/record.php?usi=000-000-128-484-C

Scroll down to bottom for pic of the Dutch Beaverette on display http://panzerserra.blogspot.co.uk/2013_09_01_archive.html I should have taken more notice of the Cobbarton Museum exhibit when I was there years ago , liked the slab sided appearance , but probably unaware at the time of the history. Post WW2 - I suppose the RAF fleet when chopped down filled the role as low cost glider tugs quite well ?

What the owner is implying is that there is hidden value , otherwise you and others would not be enquiring about purchase. That being the case then I want a share of that vale to be released at some time in the future because I don't sell at undervalue. This is common on land sales near villages where land is sold at "agricultural" fee simple BUT if at a later date years down the road that same land is sold for housing due to planning permissions being obtained - then he (more probably his offspring) receives a top $ cut. Of course depending on the vehicle , work done etc. - there may be a profit , of course if some jobs sent out (shot-blasting / painting/ engine reconditioning - somebody does get a profit). THe fact that most projects done fully "in-house" , there is not a profit , if there is then it is inflation paper - does not enter in the negotiations .

I would tend to agree with this , my understanding is there are some N (national variations) , this is to protect bridges - that all were supposed to be reinforced on certain class of road for 44 tonne gross before a certain date). The rest of EU - all based on "open borders" Schengen Agreement ?

From Brussels / Belgium it will unfold for HGV's - like the petals of a flower , to the other EEC countries (Stage 1) , Stage 2 will be to all cars , (probably limited to manufacturer factory fitted) rather than retro-fit ,,

Where is Adolf's GOLD , not on a burried train in Poland for starters ,, http://www.dailystar.co.uk/news/latest-news/497152/Adolf-Hitler-Nazi-Germany-Austria-conspiracy-theories-billions-stash-lake-Auckland-Island

IMHO , not a durable paint for vehicles that are climbed over . More classic car type finish , that ages with a good patina and then can be cut-back and compounted. This was / still is a accepted new final finish technique. ISTR that there was also a Belco cele "clear over base" (varnish) to finish , I recall my old man using this before metallics on such as silver. In later years (from abt. early 1970's) you would obtain the final gloss "from the gun" by using a premium finish "Supergloss finish thinners" , this relagated what became known as STANDARD thinner to primers and undercoats + gun-wash if you ran out of reclaim. Probably chipping would be due to the technique of a flash and then double-header in the days when STANDARD thinner was all that was available (laid on too thick, rather than the better several thin coat applications) . Pigments , resins , driers - wtf - they don't matter because they are all more or less the same amongst automotive finish - the difference is the aromatic that vaps off or water you stove off. I doubt if ever cele was ever used on any military vehicle ex- manufacturers works , it would be my last choice . Having said that I have used it for over 45 years and continue to use it on Land Rovers in DBG . Max. matting base (50%) , not bad on Nato Green / Olive drab finishes , however they are always best done in a full "lusterless" - you are talking aircraft refinish there. FV's - as I say , far better paints are available for the application. PS btw , I have known cele to be used in engine plants , where such as block and head castings are painted prior to machining , a quick single coat of primer or primer / top mix and then a quick stove , then on to the transfer-lines , you can't easy do that with other paints.

Cellulose certainly has lots of advantages , if it chips easy then there is probably something wrong with the ground prep or application. I often read this comment about cele , I don't know how it originated. My old man was a spray painter , in a misspent youth I took no notice and ended up teaching myself to spray using cele. I have never experienced chipping , even on VW Beetles where people fitted a nappy on their bonnet lower parts (that scratched the factory paint) , I ran beetles for well over 100,000 miles after cele respray - my lower bonnets never chipped. However cellulose would NOT be a good choice for a small, medium or large wheeled or tracked FV

1 pack transport polyurethane - agreed, it was / is also called FLEET ENAMEL , not so often used since aqua 2K A PU paint would be used on a lorry cab livery , better performance against washing detergents , sunlight , dust abrasion etc. etc. Rest of vehicle to save cost - A bit lesser IMHO would be a Machinery Enamel (sold as Tractol) then a traditional "Coach Paint" (such as Tekaloid) (Tractol & Tecaloid - now the same firm) . A machinery enamel would be oil and fuel resistant when through dry (count on 1 month approx) - so I use this type of paint as chassis paint. WARNING - you can even get Bitumen paint sold as cheap chassis paint by the gallon. Down to price , any of the above paints - ball park of £20 / Litre , bit cheaper in 2.1/2 or 5 Litre cans. If you are buying a paint at £25 for 2.1/2 L , then it can only be some sort of cheapo Alkyd , Dulux finish may be as good / cheaper ? My local paint store DIY for home , the prop. has Dulux on the shelf for punters BUT tells them all that most of his trade painters buy Crown or some of the others. He had his extensive shop front done with Crown , possibly he has a good discount rate ?? -- SORRY amd. It is not Crown that this long standing paint vendor advises , it is in fact Leyland TRADE paint , just noticed a can in the Utility ..

This is the only Forum where I would sort of fess up to having a collection / private museum of Lightweights only because others have similar multiple collections of same basic type(s) armour tracked or heavy haul , only lack of £$ stops me. So there will be a few who understand - architect / builder of my own lunatic asylum. I have several up to HF , for some strange reason HG was a good financial year BUT the oddities start. Just the odd KA when I must have decided 5mb engines and rationalized axles were best (and a few minta were available at MVS) - so I seem to have concentrated on KB & KC , as yet I don't have a KD 24 volt (non FFR) , I know of a good one , always a possibility if ever I find the time LoL 1980 , lots of good Lightweights and 88" CL were demob early 1980 , this was because of frustrated export Contracts for the middle-east that ended up as extra L'wt placed with the British Army , these were the HG's. I was reliably informed by somebody at Solihull that this was the reason of changes to seat base , cushion retainers and loose locker lid over fuel tanks. Iran would not accept alloy lids screwed to the cushion , then the new idea became standardised on future Contracts.

Sorry , can't get Photobucket to rotate right or left for me just now. 300 build FVE22A/87 Item 3. RHD , 12 volt GS , built between March and June 1979 . I have 23HF86 . DIS July 1978 , I obtained 21/3/1989 , so it did only 10 years in service. Yes, I am quite confident I have the record for the Lightweight longest in private ownership LoL 23HF86 was purchased at a time when few L'wt. were being demobbed , prices were high , it cost me the most I ever paid at auction £3392.50 , that included for some strange reason £442.50 VAT (normally only FFR's were vatable as commercial they said). It was exceptional and still is at 46,169 miles , got it home , had a bit fiddle and blocked and sheeted over - you will not believe this but I have not had a peep at it since. I started a notebook , little in it , never done a history search , this is all I know :- Label affixed to bulkhead Ex-Lionheart Enquiries for this should be made H.Q. REME TA Borden Tel. Borden mil 34 Borden 3611 EXT. Only marking ORD stencilled inside of drivers door Union flag @ rear N/side (It is painted NATO/black DP) Gearbox marked with felt-tip pen Gearbox - 26 DIST - WKSP. - is "S" marked (I think meaning service exchange) & I made a note it was a "D" suffix box. --- I have a note that front springs appear recent fitted and are 7 leaf (that were originally only fitted on FFR's) Also a note that the cylinder head casting was a HRC 1303 , and I identified it as a ERC5266 , I would have to check that one - I think that would make it a fully metricated head that would not be fitted new to a 3mb built 1978 That is about it - all I know and I don't have a photograph of it that I can recall - would need a long search in a few shoe boxes for that LoL

Hi , and welcome 10FM68 , did you drive 10FM68 in service or did you own it / still own it ? According to the MJC book is seems to have been a FFR Lightweight . From the same Contract ( WV11140 ) I have owned 19FM65 for almost 36 years , a 12 volt GS , wife's car for 20 years then laid up , she did over 100,000 miles with it - so can't sell it - still a lovelly truck just needs time for a engine rebuild / or change , main gearbox rebuild , bit of work on bulkhead & vent panel , then another cellulose DBG glam job. The 1979 Series III 12V GS airportable , it should be more or less the same , what I call the "hybrid" axles did not start until Sep. 1980 , leading on to the rationalized axles that I am no great fan of but the 11" drums up front can stop you better..

M8,5/16 UNF,5/16 BSF you should be able to make a educated guess by comparison. You probably just have a strained thread , if it were me - then I would just roll the thread better using a HT bolt , S grade or 8.8 may do it , a cap head screw would be better , gear oil on the threads , enter and screw it in tight. If it fails - then re-tap.

It is very common on modern cars to find fine metric threads esp. on suspension components , and the fine pitch selected varies between manufacturers . Often "flange washer hex. nuts" are used , some with integral (but loose until secured) washers of the Bellville type or serrated locking type. The hex. heads of the nuts are smaller than standard metric fixings where you would use - the common size 13mm 17mm 19mm spanner / socket. A Peugeot 10mm flange nut would need a 16mm spanner , IIRC a Ford 10mm flange nut would need a 15mm spanner , also you will find a use for a 18mm spanner ,, small car exhausts (Fiat for example) - often 12mm spanner , bigger car exhaust manifolds etc. 14mm . So - you can see - a full range of sockets / spanners in metric do have a use

OK , Kinross must have been a single outlet then (can't think of another possibility now) , possibly ADT just had Aston Down ? , my memory recalls they were a little odd compared to the two big auction groups BCA & CMA - something about the Auction catalogues having candy-stripes on the covers , may be wrong there too. Just the fact S/O + Kinross , then it must have been auctioned at that site.

Yes , that is more or less the conclusion I came , I "believe" the first date to be the Solihull "despatch in" date (vehicle was transferred from production line to the despatch department ) BUT it could also be the Solihull "despatched out" date (actual date vehicle left despatch department). There could be quite a interval between despatch in / despatch out it would not be a despatch FIFO system on the parked up lots, although I suppose the production line would be more or less loaded on that basis, however they could be building up more than one contract at a time . The efficiency as to notified decision exactly the Ordnance Depot to be delivered to , I understand most left by rail but some would have been by road , all scope for record card confusion - I suppose the main date has to be the date the Ordnance Depot actually signed for as "cursory inspection - undamaged in transit" , probably there was a quarantine area. The logistics reminds me of factory production planning dept. loading boards with plastic tablets with sticky plastic coloured code dots - long before computers ,,

Almost certain it was Aston Down , they would just move it to nearest disposal site once authorised. Many were returned from Norway to Arbroath and then to Kinross - so a mixed bunch. About that time there was about 30 101" disposed of , very low mileage (best seen at auction) , the rumour was they had been stored at a RAF hangar somewhere up there in Scotland - they were Army.