ruxy

There is a 8 stud water pump , BUT AFAIK - no aluminium timing case cover. 8 stud pump = 501041 you will only find it on a true S2 era. Solihull fitted engine (Rover 6 in 88" w.b.) - 12 volt only contracts S2 Contract(s) were pure civvy based with bolt-ons (based on civvy body parts) . The S2A MOD spec. types (Rover 8 in 88" w.b.) factory fitted engine , 12 volt + 24 volt contracts , 7 and 9 stud pumps were S2A These had military spec. tubs (front spine to secure Jerry not spare as bonnet mounted, steel reinforcement rear wheel arches + front wings for antenna support mounts etc. etc. -------- - a 8 stud timing casing = 501039 ----------------- 7 stud = FFR & 12 volt fitted with twin belts & 8 blade fan ------------------ Late , such as 5 mb Lightweights without oil cooler would have 9 stud pumps

There is always the FOI request , and I suppose if a person could be bothered a follow up on the person making previous FOI , assuming they did not wangle a nom-de-plume I wonder if Mr Lee Rolf ever penetrated the MOD conspiracy ? He seems to be searching for a complete buried WW2 vehicle museum ! With County Council waste disposal responsibilities - this seems to open a environmental avenue of research - records kept , how about ground-water contamination ? https://www.whatdotheyknow.com/request/sheepcote_valley_vehicles_buried_2

I would suggest , don't even look at sales of Series 1 for at least 24 months until the dust settles , every chancer is trying his hand , every 'Classic' auctioneer waffles on about a / the (arguably) most basic utility being a work of art. JLR / Jaguar Land Rover , have been recovering / sourcing bits all over , chassis / wrecks - dozens from dry climate Australia, over the next 12 months or so these will be "restored" and sold (the last I read) betweeen £60,000 to £80,000 depending on w.b. This is just for production continuity since Defender production ceased and the new model rolls off the line , BS - continuous production of line-built for 67 years + , £millions small beer in the BIG picture for JLR So expect all S1 to be asking top$ for a while yet , if you don't ask high £ , you don't get high £££££££££££

Part 3. (no continuity) - to avoid answering queries in full ??? You know where they are , possibly they are the very self & same tanks ? If they are then there is effective means of establishing proof. The A1073 between Spalding and Crowland sits on top of a very high bank. Because the soil is mainly silt, the banking was made stronger, with X WW2 tanks. I have seen photos of these tanks, in some photos, an old timer showed me many years ago, so that myth, is a true story, and not a myth. Reason , steel reinforcement of a road embankment - supposedly (witnessed by old-timer who apparently has / had photographic evidence). So , what would there be to hide by removal of manufacturers plates ? - tanks under a public highway of course if IF SOURCE. http://forum.keypublishing.com/showthread.php?129369-Not-Spitfires-but-buried-U-Boat-and-whatever-else/page2

DLI Museum grounds is a V-Good event , nice location , good parking (non-eventers) , and will probably be the very last ever this year . http://www.nemvc.org.uk/events/index.htm Location probably only bettered when ever there is a event at Cragside , Rothbury..

As I stated , that is a surface mount type , applicable to Lightweight and Station Wagon rear door , actually in some cases ISTR the other type designed for tail-gate is in fact used on front wings too. Your door is correct in all respects , along with rear roof panel (other than bkt. "C" being bent) , as stated - been there done it and I am certain the correct tool is the No.2

================== The 'traditional' pick-axe bracket fitting is designed such that it can be correctly mounted over the central spline of a TAIL-GATE (other than a Lightweight split tail-gate) - it is bolted on with a pair of 5/16" dia. x 1.1/2" bolts http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/2333/337981-PICK-HEAD-SUPPORT-BRACKET.html?search=337981&page=1 The L'wt type is surface mounted using pop-rivets , same as when used correctly on a stn. wgn. side-hinged door. Bracket "c" , when not bent is designed such that a shovel of incorrect lenght can not be fitted , because if you do this - then your rear quarter panel gets bent - as yours is , because you can't fully open the door. It is normal for a tail-gate (inc. L'wt. type) to have the pick helve + shovel extending well beyond the width of the tail-gate , BUT not a door. To repeat - all this is correctly designed by Solihull , you select the correct parts for the application and only mount suitable tools.

----- It is going back a few years now, I had a look at a few spades in the garage. I think I got in a bit of confusion due to a badly stamped NSN , I think I Googled around and determined there were other national NATO numbers for what was the same spade. Due to my re-paint the numbers are now difficult to read - but all seem 910-5934 & the ones I kept as Ideal for Lightweight , pointless having earlier dated when S1 enthusiasts must have date marked wheel-rims to match their vehicle date of manufacture :- Bulldog 1985 Elwell 1965 ( became part of S&J group) S&J Spear & Jackson 1986 Bulldog 1991 , later forged version where a welded on heel-bar is used. ----- E & W Lucas Ltd. 1954 , no NSN , just broad-arrow + 112353 ------- I don't think the CES actually states the style spec. of the spades , the buffer rubbers accomodate the variation on pick-axle lengths - IIRC abt. 2" No problem with Lightweight spade loop on hinge , the rest of LR's - as you can see there is a choice of three brackets for spades that all look the same but differ in dimensions. It is a case of identify according to the parts book and if the late'ish forged spades don't fit - then try a No. 2 shovel.. ---

Defender Wolf , spade / shovel (shovel No. 2 - I think to be correct) when mounted to front wings. The bracket for tool blade = RRC8370 / 78248 / WC702101 The above according to official Land Rover Parts List for Defender --- So , three different sizes of bracket , hardly 1" between the length of all three (fixings IIRC to vehicle are same) - so fit the wrong bracket , try and mount the wrong tool - it does not work & appearance is wrong..

btw 'Triggers-broom' , replacement wood , there are TWO versions , taper-socket and a similar eccentric taper-socket (by abt. 10mm) - re-shaft with the wrong one and your spade/shovel will not fit the "gardening tool mounts" , it will probably be 2" out . ISTR strapped should be eccentric taper , you will find the WW2 era. pressed steel blade tools are straight-taper - hence if you can get them to fit and secure the webbing straps - they will not appear correct. This I see is the problem probably in this thread - same with modern similar civvy tools ,, the L'wt normal spade can be called a Infantry spade (I believe going back to origins of WW1 , 3 men - two carried spades and the third the pick-axe) , not to be confused with the post WW2 shorter drilled for webbing 101" type shortie (rabbiting spade) .

I can show photographs of GS spade (small shovel) branded with NATO numbers , manufactured by Bulldog , strapped , forged , T handle dated in quite recent years - the NATO branded numbers are in fact for NATO counties (IIRC one being only applicable to Norway) that does not include UK (ISTR was result of research). Other than the NSN branded - all these shovels identical in all respects , ISTR the Norway ones ? I purchased were / still are brand new & unused issue.. The GS shovels , identical but presses steel - normally are dated WW2 (still being released) , the angle is different - hence they don't secure well . The lengths of the WW2 era (still being demobbed) can vary a bit amongs manufacturers (often 2" shorter than the accepted length IIRC 28"). Try a few searches on the EMLRA Forum - all described with lots of photographs ,, however - I did not get around to the No.2 SHOVEL ,, I think you will find that Spear & Jackson website describe their NATO as a 'service spade/ shovel'

Been here LoL , ISTR The bracket for blade , there are two sizes , as fitted to a 109" or Lightweight tailgate - this is for a "NATO service SPADE" , T handle (never D) strapped & not socketed c/w forged blade. However , there is a second size of bracket , normally fitted to such as Defender s/w back doors , mil. types and sometimes front to wings (civvy - also to such as Camel Trophy) , this is for a No.2 SHOVEL , that should be strapped c/w forged blade T handle . This Bulldog is near but is cheaper and weaker socketed. http://bulldoghandtools.co.uk/bulldog-shovels/round-mouth-shovels/bulldog-round-mouth.html If you don't have the correct tool , then your thingies don't work proper.. ------------------------- SIZE is ALL ,, https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=22576 Series , leafer --- http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/5098/395111-SPADE-RETAINER-BRACKET.html?search=spade%20bracket&page=1 Coiler

Well , if the docs are according to that data plate on the seatbase - it is a ringer & where is the main nomenclature plate photograph + it should probably have a Leyland Cars VIN plate under the bonnet . btw Lightweights were never chassis pre-fix 901 , BUT somebody could have moved all that bodywork over to a early S3 88" civvy petrol.. There are other rivet-counter dating features remaining. IMHO - RINGER

You will find the odd in service (IIRC in the main RAF Regiment) photographs during the Gulf War conflict(s) , picture books by Bob Morrison - British Army Land Rovers in the Gulf. However , I can't recall any in service photographs of 109" Recce , other than TA on summer camp , sticks & hood off + doors off at times but still minimalist. However - I find all in service Land Rover photographs quite RARE , try and find Lightweight "winterized" - they hardly exist , the evidence is more on extant hardware (neglecting all the so called reproductions). Lightweight Recce - the real ones , probably all details (many) are known , down to the fine detail differences on about 6 L'wt in total ,,

"KC" abt. 1985 , just scale up 1/1 Junk the Larkspur for Clansman TUAAM , and reduce the decking of the radio shack - Italian Walt model That extra 21" in the wb would slow down a quick reversal at times LoL

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3594579/Engineer-claims-Adolf-Hitler-s-secret-NUCLEAR-BOMBS-German-cave-warns-decay-Chernobyl-hands.html Of course anybody with a C&G in magnetic particle crack detection can see the GPR results are the bullion trains, the Nazi nuclear bombs will be directly underneath them ..

The season approaches for the pensioner historians :- http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2016/05/18/german-pensioner-claims-he-has-found-nazi-nuclear-bombs/

------------------- RARE weapon saved by remote location , deac proof house certified ??? spoilers if it is.. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-glasgow-west-36255867

----------- Just last week , I was reliably informed by somebody who should know Club official Morgan (pre-war Austins 7 + 10 / 12 etc.) he advised that testing for roadworthiness of trailers, caravans and cars (presently exempt from MOT) was still on. He then stated that ££ prices were depressed on the Austin front, as there was a lot of fear. I doubted this , he then stated - when you get home Goooogle around the word ' roadworthiness' , this I did but was unable to come across anything significant that he was describing. We sort of agreed that all that was real buoyant on the local valley(s) front - tractors. You have just reinforced exactly what he stated , he certainly had fear as his stock is quite high , then he went on about the club's "re-manufactured" blocks for a 10 , not so slow movers at £4000 + who would be buying in the future (I question that price - his reply , I see the paperwork and only the foundry is making a profit) . He was a bit iffy about a radiator rebuild with new core costing a few hundred , under the circumstances he should / could have stuck with the bodge repair by PO , rather than the annual spend with cottage industry specialists to raise the overall standard.

----------------------------------------------- I don't think this is all quite correct. AFAIK , most EU Directives have National / Local variations - look for a N inside a circle in the marjin of such documents this N = a National variation to the EU wide Directive. With vehicles / trailers - there could have been loads of problems :- http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/news/9758494/EU-backs-down-over-threat-to-classic-cars.html

7 qty. , that all , must be a newby , must try harder.

It is std. 88" short journeys - frequent £ bills for box/ tail-pipe but not too expensive, DIY a few simple mods to make changing quicker. Flange stub pipe & tail-pipe welds will go long before a good silecer box , you can gas weld sleeve reinforce. I have tried a few Stainless box / tailpipe - never found a good one that matches a OEM spec. MS box. At times I have found that "genuine" left-hooker silencer boxes are the cheapest of all ,, just that you discharge on the pavement & in shop doors. It seems they had large gaps of years between revision of prices OK if you do have a left-hooker kept original. Depending on your motoring a int. pipe will outlast the silencer box , a front pipe will outlast the Int. pipe. Invest in stainless steel front pipe + Int. pipe. Only use a mild steel std. box. Genuine , Bosal , Klarius - all perform about the same , Walker were nasty but now use a aluminized weld. All the small thingies - rear hanger brackets - Bosal did a kit in front of catalogue , IIRC now expensive , but IIRC never contained the steel bushes for the rubbers. Shopping list to franchise dealer for several of everything with a ££ 40% stock order discount. Manifold studs - 3 qty. standard from Bosal cat. or off eBay ALWAYS cover the manifold studs with BRASS manifold nuts , you can still get them 1" long - if you search well , or use a pair of double-depth BRASS nuts to cover the threads. In fact at this position and the manifold studs to heads - the military Solihull factory spec. was a full stainless steel hex. nut. Civvy received a reasonable mild-steel nut , Unipart spares period changed it to a rubbish BZP nut , LRP changed it back to a Rover MS nut. Front-pipe to Int. pipe + Int. to silencer box , you could use a SS bolt BUT never use a SS nut on a SS bolt , use MS hex or best is a double depth brass hex. nut. on SS or MS bolts. Depending on the box/tailpipe life-span - just a MS bolt & MS hex nut or std brass nut & torque to crunch.

It was Hobson Industries. ISTR they selected the pride of the 110 fleet ,15 year old trucks with rust free chassis LoL coated them with black clag , fitted a Wolf hardtop , new Exmoor seating and fitted a Roll-Over protection bar . The objective to stretch the life-span by 20 years as a rear echelon gap-plug at low ££ , yet just a few years later they started to drip out of Withams in undamaged serviceable quality as well as scrap.

No RTV or SORN , it is a articulated trailer , no I may be wrong on that , IIRc you don't want to be a agricultural implement cat. (you don't wish to have another speed restriction) , it would be bad form to unnecessary slow down following traffic by 10 mph in any case. In practical terms it is the mass and braking of the towing vehicle + boost from any dolly braking (that is in fact negligible on the steepest hills of England , Scotland & Wales) , "some" have actually carried out brake functional tests to the dolly limit.

Sorry , no , never try and tow or dolly a Series with the Transfer Lever in neutral , it is intended that the neutral is the best handbrake - better than the transmission brake , this position is for PTO and some winching purposes. On a dolly , if you drag the rig with T box in neutral , then you can drive the Rover off over the front of dolly , depends on the horses & where your eyes are. Not a lot of people know this fine point , "some" learn the hard way , after using a Junior hacksaw on the last two flange bolts, wiring up the prop and only then using their brain LoL