ruxy

The orange screw in oil filler on rocker cover started long before 5mb engines , standard civvy. spec. from abt. 1978 ,, the only certain way is the reinforced block casting or check the engine Ser. No.

There are several 36IV manuf. over 50 years , the diecast name gives a clue to age - they are all slightly different , most are easily sorted. The Solex 36IV - I suspect were MOD Contract purchase - I have only known them come on recon. cartridge units. Zenith / Solex UK sold out to Burlen who do a good 36IV The last ones I know of out of genuine Land Rover boxes was the 36IVR (Suffix R - I believe = Rover) not purchased a genuine boxed sonce Y2K , the 36IVR I found was probably the best , I suspect it was contract manuf. by a european manufacturer , probably not by Burlen. The ones manufactured in India have the letters PA on the casting (BUT - not all) - not had one in my hands - various reports. Most of the cheapo (cheaper ££ than filling the 10 gallon tank) are made in PRC - probably at just a single Chinese factory , you would be hard pushed to tell many components from a genuine Zenith. The main difference / only mod. IIRC is a metricated volume screw. Obviously some of these can be a problem , some run well straight from the box. -- The Weber 34 ICH conversion kit normally used , very nice quality obviously , a few pros / cons. However - get any 36IV running on song and it is a well matched carb to the Rover 36IV IMHO and to a late S2A or S3 was Solihull factory fitted , and that matters to many people..

btw 95107993A , manuf. abt. 1973 & fitted to a Lightweight --FM--

If the machined square face approx. 1" x 1" , central position near carburettor has no brand - then it is probably a 7:1 cr The 8 is more like OO and abt. 3/4" high. Much later during 1980's - you could find a smaller code such as 5412 (in stamps abt. 4mm high). Heads get changed , swopped about , normally you can tell from foundry marks such as Qualcast and casting No. Prefix 951 Suffix A , I would expect to find a military timing case cover , machined platform at top with four tapped holes for mounting a 24 volt genny. Probably the oil filler tube and cap at the top (cap similar to a radiator cap) , the water pump would be a military 7 stud type. Guide trumpet thinghy spot welded to crank starting handle dog .

http://www.cnbc.com/2016/08/24/explorer-no-train-or-tunnel-at-search-site-for-nazi-train.html

http://www.haaretz.com/world-news/europe/.premium-1.738304 Aid to Poland tourist industry (until end of 2016) - or what ? !!!

It seems 50% of chosen excavation pits completed = 50% chance left ,, http://www.reuters.com/video/2016/08/20/treasure-hunters-uncertain-about-fabled?videoId=369625794

Drone camera zoom footage is poor , the controller seems afraid to fly lower - possibility of 'AA' fire ??

Horse shoe luck https://www.warhistoryonline.com/war-articles/drone-video-shows-tunnel-entrance-nazi-gold-train-gold-train-dig-day-3-update.html

Digging deeper (note , states the dig may take 10 days) , probably reach Oz before they find anything ,, http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3745340/Nazi-gold-train-dig-captured-drone-footage.html

http://imgur.com/gallery/AZgaTEw

Near the start of the thread , I mentioned I had a 5l container of 'Ultra' type , purchased in error . Did not use because it is not spirit based (it is water based). This is in fact what you mention - the improved version by Thompsons , I understand it has better penetration on stone / clay bricks (abt. 10mm) However to penetrate cotton fibres esp. if there is still wax dressing contamination - then it takes a spirit carrier..

Actually , I used the word brick 'sealer' , they are not a sealer - they are 'penetrant water repellents' and silicones are 30 years old hat , there are better chemical types now.

The canvas will stay drier , the water will ball and run off , I suppose when that ceases a re-application is due (I have never done more than the single proofing) The secret is to let the manufacturers wax wash off the canvas first , about 6 to 12 months service , then the sealer can penetrate better. I understnd the silicone brick sealer contains a greater concentrate of silicones in the carrier spirit than the purpose tentage silicone sealers (better . As I stated , the first time with a Land Rover hood , I took a risk as it was only. abt. 12 months old (most of dressing off , you know black wax on screen) . I had used silicone brick sealer on tentage . Kept checking the polyester stitching on the hood for years until I could see stars through the roof LoL . The newer water based silicone brick sealer may be better and less to attack polyester stitching - just I have never tried it , have 5L unused aqua.purchased in error in garage still.

For heavy tarp. the traditional way is Boiled Linseed Oil thinned a fair bit with Turps / White spirit , or a blend of BL Oil / spirit and Beeswax

Well years ago , the campers always used FEB (building products) , IIRC the product was FEBsil , a silicone brick sealer , better than a similar product than by Graingers and cheaper. You use large sponges to apply (gloves on) I have used it on best quality Blacks of Greenock / VANGO 'Egyption cotton' and tentage also Land Rover hoods , it must be spirit based (not tried the newer water based products). The spirit does not attack polyester stitching on such as tilts. I would have to check in my garage - I have a unused 5 litre of a brand purchased in error (Ultra IIRC the version) - this was water based - purchased the wrong one. The only good point of such as Graingers Mesowax , is cheap canvas / wearing thin - the wax fills and prevents driving rain penetration for a while. Duck / canvas - the water proofing is just wax. This is the type of stuff I would use if the dressing has washed off the surface , so you are able to impregnate the cotton with a spirit based product :- http://www.everbuild.co.uk/building-products/surface-treatments/408-Super-Seal The tech Data sheet does not state such , BUT it must have silicones in suspension.

Things are certainly starting to get hot on the media coverage , just need the circus opening performance now ,, http://www.news.com.au/technology/science/archaeology/dig-set-to-solve-polands-nazi-gold-train-mystery/news-story/9f316f73139d796438fe25cbf5770c09

I think they are 'Likely Lads' because of ersatz truck ,, I just can't think of what the truck is , something from the 1970's methinks , fibre-glass based on VW Beetle floorpan ? Not a Munga (first consideration) , certain it is not a genuine WW2 Kubelwagen . http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3729111/A-police-force-forced-delete-offensive-insensitive-tweet-invasion-two-men-pictured-Nazi-uniform.html - please assist. Just being nosy LoL

IMHO The exterior re-finish will be CARC British MOD have used this stuff for quite a few years (IIRC spray with brathing air only). It stands up better to sunlight fade , the interior is probably the original alkyd IRR.

I think only a 'green-fleet' vehicle would be on Merlin. If it were 'white-fleet' , then new 1986 IIRC it would be LEX (and at the time that would be Halifax Bldg. Soc. now HBOS) Solihull 1986 - then that would be the old paint plant - so more or less a stoved enamel. ISTR the new contract 'aqua' paint plant started up about 1993. I have never been convinced that the colour NATO Green as ex-Solihull had the IRR component(s) content. A few photographs may resolve , also check the under-bonnet VIN plate , there should be a paint code.

I can't from the pic. tell if the Sankey is narrowtrack with rotating eye or widetrack with fixed eye , however I wonder if the owner failed to conform with the golden rule of Sankey(s) - somethingie of the draught must rotate , otherwise this is the result. The wheelarches seem to be fitted with spats as if wider than std. tyres fitted. Narrowtrack - you set the pintle to non-rotate , widetrack you set the pintle to rotate. Easy with a Rover with DB NATO pintle , however this Russian job may have had a fixed hook and the trailer was a bog-std. widetrack - bad news..

This is a extra BREL plate they did rivet on ,,

btw , the pre-fix S is not just military , common civvy too - I believe it stands for 'Service Exchange'

IIRC all the Base Repair plates I have seen have been secured with 'splined drive rivets' , I don't like to see this done on a water jacket. All the ones that I have seen by contractor BREL (British Railways Engineering Ltd) the plates have been bonded on , can come loose & fall off. I saved one just in time , it seemed resin bond , a thick application on top of the engine laquer - not a good idea ,,

538693 , that is just the bare pump casing casting , in the L'wt Parts Book 538693 - there is no NATO part No. just NP meaning Non-provisioned , so you just select & fit the complete assembly. You can get new replacement (non-gen) spindle / impeller assemblies and bearing sets very cheap (probably Bearmach the best) to recondition up a old casing. The impellers are a shrink fit and CI so easy broken. Likewise the drive flanges. The different drive flanges for different belt pullies , a 12 Volt GS Lightweight with 8 blade fan has a twin belt set (I suppose belt & braces where you can) , , on a FFR there is just a single belt for the 8 blade fan vee belt pulley as you have a pair for the genny. S236 , 236 is S2A L'wt , S = reconditioned , there is a 237 , ISTR that is a 24 volt cartridge unit , I have one crated & prefix S - it has a new block & the No. is carved in with a die-grinder , bench dyno test doc. states rocker shaft WBS & reversed , rockers faced , I will change them. Hardly a gen 236/237 BUT it had all new genny, dizzy,coil etc (that I stripped off and they worked out cheap + I still have the bare motor)