ruxy

Yes , there are references back to the origins Bantam . MA etc. The name "Peep" was because it was a "reconnaissance" vehicle. The are a few good reference source. Brooklands Book JEEP 1942-1954 Reprint "Peeps Under Test" Motor magazine 25/11/1942 is one example. Apparantly the Yanks did not like the term "Peep" ========= Another ref. http://www.willys-mb.co.uk/jeep-pics.htm

Check out the wiring colour code keys (BS) at Disco2003 website , the nearest schematic that I can think of is :- http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk/Images/Electrical/Rover%201%20Diagram.jpg The only thing missing seems to be the Warner socket loom. ------------------ Quite a good diagrammatic of layout of all parts inc. clips etc. can be found at :- Land Rovers 10 & 11 ILLUSTRATED PARTS CATALOGUE Army Code No. 22007 April 1973 ------ In conj. with the last civilian 2A wiring diagram - you should sort it.

I expected to find it in the book Armoured and Heavy Vehicles of the RUC by David Dunne - But no - could it be from Eire ?

If you wish to make up a NLA replica or such as a rivet counter convincing / fooling screened harness or whatever , then you need to be looking at components from : TT Electronics (AB Connectors) http://www.ttabconnectors.com/ or Amphenol http://www.amphenol.co.uk/

If only life was so easy ! It is in fact a good tool to have , probably if requested the makers would run a batch off for BSF , BSW , BSP etc. The alternative is to have a good supply of taps & die-nuts as a double check. Put two supposed same M&W thread pitch guages together and there is often a error, Starrett are much better in that respect. In the real world on cars - you will in fact find you are using your 9mm 11mm 12mm 14mm 15mm 16mm & 18mm more often than you would expect , often 16mm & 18mm are found on fuel injection fittings. 11mm 12mm 14mm and 15mm because cars tend to use flange bolts and hex. nuts requiring a smaller smanner size than nominal for the fixing thread dia. - so spanners are not a good guide. You often get cylinder head stretch bolts having a dia. of 9mm , they don't all have a Torx head - often they are a hex. flange head. A few years ago I was foxed when I came across a 7mm bolt. Then of course - on older metric cars - the so common 8mm dia thread standard bolt - in fact used the 14mm hex. spanner (that was slimmed down to the now accepted 13mm). Even to this date - you will find metric hex. head sizes against nominal bolt head (plain sets & shoulder bolts) can vary depending on three common metric standards German DIN , NFE - Nationalistic France has its own National Euro standard and Sweden with its SMS Swedish metric standard.

It seems the PO has moved the batteries to the tub to free up the centre seat space , no big problem but you will need the battery cover 7 wing nut fixings. He seems to have maintained 24 volt because you have the two batteries and the control panel is still in situ. ---------- What he seems to have done is to remove the "Shunt box" , aerial co-axial connections and a load of wiring & flexible conduits. =================== No huge problem - I would watch eBay and try and get a job lot that somebody has stripped off in good condition to sell on , control panel (a spare is always handy) , shunt box and most important the conduits and cable that can be difficult to obtain as loose items in good condition. Try and view one fully rigged & take a few photographs to study against wiring diagrams.

As mentioned previuously - you need other publications for the Marshall body parts. This is OK for mechanical parts but suspension upgrades (anti-sway bars) are subject of upgrade publications

It should have one under the bonnet.

It has nothing to do with GS or FFR. The change point was 1979.

It would help if you stated the age of your vehicle to get you onto the correct diagram. With these FFR's it is best to just disregard any comments unless it is from people who have some experience , you need a logical approach. You can not expect somebody to zero into the exact problem over the internet (sometimes it can be done). One of the biggest problems after they have been in private ownership is wiring bodges , fair enough a good conversion to a true 12 volt ignition can be made but lighting services IMHO are best maintained as original specification , probably only consider shorting out the IR switch because it can be problematical and affects all lighting circuits. Probably this is a good diagram for you to work to (the 109" diagrams are very similar to the Lightweights of same age) :- http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk/Images/Electrical/mine%2012V%20circuitNewA.jpg'>http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk/Images/Electrical/mine%2012V%20circuitNewA.jpg'>http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk/Images/Electrical/mine%2012V%20circuitNewA.jpg First - check you have a live feed from the fuse to the hazard warning switch , then you need to understand the operation of the Infra-red circuit and how the IR (6RA) and Aux. (FV) relays work. You could have a problem with the Aux. relay affecting feed. Obviously this can be negated by shorting the IR switch but it is best to confirm all services are operational before making this change and then check the results after to confirm. The Hella Flasher unit and hazard switch are normally quite reliable. The Infra-red switch (the one with the latch inhibitor) is known as a weak point but I have isolated this to a dry joint caused by corrosion on the rear washers that are staked NOT to any internal fault. A simple resistance or bell test on the switch folowing the instructions and a gentle tap to this washer will restore the connection. If you wish the IR switch can be shorted out and this will isolate parts of the circuit that you are never going to use and make fault tracing easier. Probably it is best if you have a friend with some auto-electrical experience to read through the electrical and wiring sections of this site before proceeding :- http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk/

The good news is that it is probably worth 4 or 5 times that of a Sankey narrowtrack in similar condition.

Your Sankey trailer - is a BROCKHOUSE trailer , with the standard NATO draught eye messed about it seems ..

Your fingers would soon be itching with "vibration white finger" .

Yes - that front blind could be the type fitted to a civilian bodied S2A or S3 winterized because the type I have seen fitted to a L'wt (two positions set by hooks on grille panel) is tensioned by the two tension springs (see the blueprint) - on to these hooks on the dumb-irons Of course on a civvy body Rover the front apron would be in the way of the tension springs - so yes it possibly was used on Civvy body (but I have seen furled canvas type on these bodies as well) . Defo. genuine in service kit - but how many had it - it seems a bit late in the day for finding out. Tony

I corresponded with C.J. Williams back in 1992 , they sent me a blueprint of their front blind - so this is defo. REME or RM. The grill panel does not have the four hooks that a winterized with canvas blind would have and there is no evidence of holes having been drilled for the hooks. I don't recall having seen a front blind like this before , you can see from the correspondence - converted by MOD not C.J. Williams

Royal Marines "Winterized" -------------- This truck has all the hooks for securing the snow/ice blinds - other than the front panel. The front and rear blinds are a ruberized type fabric (possibly Hyperlon) rather than the normal duck canvas. The front blind is secured with press-studs rather than the tension springs on the canvas type. No evidence at all of any stitching marks on the tilt of the front screen and door top blinds ever having been fitted. As part of this project I am preparing another L'wt with a C.J. Williams (Aldershot) winterization kit , slave start and pukka internal thermal lining material. I would be very interested to view any winterized L'wt photographs readers may have - in particular any showing the real FULLTILT. Regards Tony

============================================ They were created (possibly by Marshall of Cambridge) for the Falklands soon after the 1982 conflict. I forget the quantity - ISTR about six.

ISTR - the Ruddington disposals catalogues always had a entry about the Geneva Conventions and use of red cross. When private auction disposal sites were used - this was not the case , possibly just one site in the Uk made a mention.

The Sykes-Pick with turret is good - I have one - quality only comes at a price. The one I prefer is the Ratcliffe , the 3/16" spare punch is in fact a SP part - you can use it with the dies and it works just the same - so who designed it first ? The double headed anvil - you place this in the vice first and wind it in to push the dies into the taper to lock & secure (it also positiones the pipe exact at the end of the dies). However as explained earlier - there is still a knack to be learned , not to vice up too tight or slack with the anvil piece.

The OP1 (ball end) is designed to be taken up and then crushed slightly to produce the pressure seal , this is often the case with brake slave cylinders , to do OP1 & then OP2 then there is absolutely nothing to compress - muppets often use cheap flaring tools to produce a single flare then tighten up so hard that they almost strip the threads in alloy cylinders. Generally - from what I have seen these cheap flaring tools only produce a cheap simple outwards flare with single material thickness , not the two material flange thickness that OP2 does (a correct OP2 gives some compression to provide a good fluid seal). Also you can find if you look inside such as brass "T" fittings a circular ridge that to provide a correct pressure seal needs a OP2 flare that has the correct inner taper clearance before tightening up - the inner ring form then impinges on the pipe inner taper. If you have renewed many brake pipes - then you will know that because of this reason many pipes have a OP1 flare at one end and a OP2 flare at the other end. I may have a few photographs available I can show correct OP1 + OP2 and the cheap tool "universal" flare that is a potential hazard. regards

The Frost tool is a dead ringer of the Sykes Pickavant that I have. The SP is very similar to a Ratcliffe (in fact the dies and punches can be used on either). Even with these better sets there is a knack in getting the 1st OP just right - in particular with cupro nickel. There is a setting tool anvil to position the tube exactly at the end of the dies but it depends upon how much pressure you have used to close the dies up to grip the pipe , when you get the knack of rotating the closing vice handle (Ratcliffe) or lever (SP) just consistent and correct it all comes correct. You may need to try dry & with a bit of brake fluid on the tooling.

The last WW2 era reserve type stock that I know of were the WC54 Ex-Norway ambulances. A friend had one - he obtained it IIRC sometime between 1995 & Y2K. ISTR there were also some CCKW's released , or were they early 1950's Deuce & Half's ? There were Land Rovers , AFAIK out of reserve , returned to UK from Germany mid to late 1980's. Stored in RAF hangars and sold by invited tender only in batches of 30 qty.

Over 30 years ago I worked out a truth table for continuity check across the numbered terminals of these 6- way switches. Just follow this with your AVO. Swith @ 12 o'clock - OFF , always feed from terminal 1 to 6 (fuse in steering column fusebox) Switch positions :- Conv. - feed 1 to 2 (Convoy lamp) S. Conv. - feed 1 to 2 and 4 (4 is front side lamps + panel instruments light switch) T - feed 1 to 5 and 6 (5 is tail & 6 is feed to Aux. relay) H.S.T. - feed 1 to 3 (3 is Headlamp) + 4 + 5 + 6 The above should also work good with all / most Military Land Rovers. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE CONTINUITY ACROSS TERMINALS AS ABOVE - THEN THE SWITCH IS BLOWN ! regards

Not to bother then Clive , all history now (well almost for me - and I still havn't needed any of those fuel pipes , just as well I purchased them).