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I have 43 GF 07 off Contract WV.11706 as you will know , so the build spec. is known. One thing you could do as a line of research is contact C.J. Williams Ltd at Aldershot , they manufactured the winterized kits and they did retain records of the VRM of trucks they converted. They have records of heat exchanger serial numbers supplied to MOD (not part of kit) - although of no use to you. Always good to know who did the conversion. The lining fabric they advised me was "Plastazote" by Zote Foams, this was wrong although years earlier it may have been correct. What you have will be "Hardura" - good - there are two or 3 manufacturers , different thicknesses , I have samples and no problem getting. The flooring mats on winterized are extra thick , ribbed switchboard type matting bonded to sheet "Sorbo" type rubber sheet about 5/8" thick - all no problem from Arco (as with the Dunlop Gacord 1" dia. rubber hose for heat exchanger). The tailgate rubber may be identical to switchboard matting in thickness (you don't buy it with the certification - that costs loads). I am not up on markings , at least on RM you get more than Army. You need to be brutal about this - you need a good donor for all the other difficult (and expensive) bits you need. You may be able to get a new bulkhead for about £600 , or a good one to re-build footwells (bits from Les Crome) - yours is well past it. You need a vent panel , a copy could easy cost you £300 - you are better off with the real thing. I know you can still get a good L'wt in bulkhead and ventpanel but in need of a new chassis and body all good for about £1000 - just a mater of patience. AND YOU TAKE A CHANCE ON ALL THE OTHER BITS THAT ARE OF VALUE. In your case - you could get a good heater, two good genuine doors (copies are poor) , all good electrical 24 volt parts - you may find your main harness is damaged but get one for free (price a new one). You will end up with another set of alloy panels - start unbolting and you will find dissimilar metal corrosion - you may soon be searching for better wings etc. This is where the brutal bit enters , don't get sentimental about breaking Lightweights - they are not so rare, bide your time - you may get a winterized with cream crackered chassis and get all the winterized bits foc. To be honest - I would not try and save this truck without scrapping another.

Obviously RM 3CDO , a search will probably reveal disposed of by private auctioneers at Aston Down or Kinross during 1992 when the RM received blocks of 90". There were a few scattered in other regiments , the RAF had quite a few but mainly as hard-top , it seems loads of variations across all arms. Once in private ownership the winterized stuff seemed to soon be removed. Few left complete but there are a few around with kits disposed off in 1992 - kits are unobtainium so you will have to collect bit by bit, actually new steel rear battery boxes for FFR versions still keep turning up on eBay !! The correct heat exchanger - watch eBay - they do come up. I don't know of a FFR L'wt winterized fully kitted still but there are quite a few still around , obviously waste of time raising to full spec. unless you are going to get a Unitary Kit & a amount of radio gear (you could go for Larkspur but plenty of cheap Clansman would also be in keeping for truck age). So THIS ONE - for a "diamond" - realistically you need a FFR donor not hacked & sound in the important tinware (they do exist) BUT - I would go for one with a knackered chassis (minimum est. £1000). new chassis (about £750) but at least you know it is sound. A truck this age would have a underwing toolbox (underbonned type from about 1979/80). There were in fact 4 qty. slightly differing lower tailgates (yours originally would have had the No. Plate on a hinged flap). Mud-flaps are genuine Nil Rover No. (they have a NATO number though) - John Richards has some (expensive for what they are £30+) That type of radiator blind is rare (2nd I have seen) - the bar across the dumb-irons - uncertain. All in all - quite and expensive project by time you get to the tilt having all the trimmings , .

Used up to late 1970'S

A Malpassi "Filter King" (or good copy) would give you a extra final filter and pressure regulator - solve everything.

It can be difficult , the engine pre-fix determines the build but cylinder heads get changed or machined to change the CR. There are many casting numbers - in particular late 2A & S3 (S3 gets very complex for casting numbers - they may be the same as the part number at that time but often not), designates slight design changes or change of foundry (gives treaceability). Often the cylinder head casting number can identify what it was originally but this does not always follow with late S2A and S3 heads where the engines were fitted with a 36IV carburettor. ========== The "general Rules" Look at the center head bolt between the carburetor and the valve cover. The surface of the head under that bolt may look like the other head bolt mounting surfaces or it may be a raised flat surface about 2.5 cm (1 inch) wide that goes between the valve cover and the edge of the head. If the mounting surface under this head bolt looks like the surface under the other head bolts, you have an earlyish 7:1 head. If you have the raised rectangular surface look carefully to see if there is a number stamped on that surface. If there is no number or a 7 stamped there then you have a late 7:1 head. If there is an 8 stamped there (This 8 will be about 3/4" high and most often looks like two zeros that are stamped to make an 8) then you have an 8:1 head. Heads with the raised flat surface that have an 8 stamped on it are genuine 8:1 heads. However there are many copies of cylinder heads from all over the world , one of the better ones that I have seen is from Brazil - IIRC the manufacturers name is Roniceli but this is not marked. I would have to check a head - ISTR they follow the same 8 brand procedure. Some of the worst copy cylinder heads - try to copy a genuine head exactly BUT they are rough - very rough - often originating in Turkey, Iraq or India. The above does not follow for very late S3 or 90" / 110" heads - there is no 8 branded - you need to look for four very small branded numbers (approx. 3mm high) to identify the head CR and if hard seats were fitted (in the case of 90" / 110").

Mark cook is 1617 3100 and a moderator on the Ex-MLRA forum with his own Section ref. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Half-Ton-Military-Land-Rover/dp/1903706009 Earlier trucks on WV Contracts (Wheeled Vehicle) - the Reg. Nos. normally follow the chassis Nos. on a full block. Later FVE (prefix) contracts have a / and follow with a Item No. Normally I am not so accurate with these because it turned out such as 109" Item numbers can be mixed in with Lightweight Item numbers all on the same contract No. Mark has done plenty of research and has access to printed off Solihull Dispatch records. All I go on is trucks I have purchased - e.g. I have 1976 Chassis. 95104109A and it is 43GF07 , that makes you 167 trucks away (the numbers work like on a speedo head)

Contract WV.11706 1976 Code 1625.0778 I make the VRM to be 44GF74 (my maths) - but best to get Mark Cook to confirm.

Even with pukka hose clamps - you will damage many modern hoses as they have a built up construction cover sheath, braided ply and a nylon tube fluid liner (that you will crush damage). Have you measured the drum dia. (in theory you have very little permissible wear). There are many makes of cheap shoes that are illfitting - even in a new brake drum. Frankly - there are new rubbish drums and shoes being sold as well as hydraulics. It could be that you need more fluid displacement that than the master cylinder can supply on a single stroke ? Because of this , at this stage - I would put a small G clamp on each brake slave cylinder to reduce the volume to minimum (rather than hard adjust the shoes outwards on to worn drum surface). If you still can't get a solid pedal on the first stroke - then it is the master cylinder.

Shuttle valves are normally not a problem (they don't do much) - the overhaul kit for yours is Rover No. AAU1714 , would have been best if you had at least re-sealed. Does the brake test illuminate as early warning you have moved the spool ? If you do just release the other end pressure and tap the pedal until centralized (bleeding by foot - pump very slow) You should have master cylinder 569671 (with 10" dia. drums front & rear) , I was just wondering if you had managed to couple up a early S3 109" No. 90577520 MC. You should have 1.1/4" bore front & 1" bore rear slave cyls. ---------------- Worth checking pedal height & wear in pedal box, but would have to be well out to do this. With new linings , even on worn drums - you should easy get a firm pedal. With the pedal going straight through - I still think it is a master cylinder problem. Normally with 10" and the so called dreaded front 11" - I bleed with a assistant on the pedal but sometimes use a Gunsons Easybleed. Normally if you are taking air in somewhere - then a pressure test with your full weight on the pedal will show a fluid leak there. I think I would be getting a new genuine master cylinder.

What is the truck VRM ? Is the master cylinder a genuine Lucas Girling (TRW) ? Any ID on the master cylinder box it was supplied in ? Have you changed any pipework at the master cylinder ?

Probably the best details of a genuine recce L'wt is the one belonging Rogan (search through all his postings) on Ex-MLRA , there are photographs of the extra bracketry on chassis for the special shelf tailgate. This recce is shown when in service in Mark Cook's book. http://forum.emlra.org/viewtopic.php?t=5047&highlight=rogan http://forum.emlra.org/viewtopic.php?p=33228&highlight=#33228

Probably phrased it badly in reply to Tony B , I find it hard to swing a hammer at the relay body underside when the truck is wheeled - this is why I rely on a pneumatic hammer but I have split one in situ. you can screw a thick round plate on the relay bottom - to bray on. I try to avoid pulling gear as you can easy bend up the X member & the last thing I want is more work than welding a new liner tube in , normally I try and work weeks in advance by squirting diesel down the chassis hole - normally makes things possible.

For bedtime reading you need this :-

The problem of hitting it with a hammer is being able to hit it in the right direction - normally that is only when the truck is stripped and you can roll the chassis over.

It is possible with a fair bit of hassle , even in a vice you may need to make your own spring compressing tool up - so just another modified tool with shorter handle length etc.. There are other issues :- 1. The ongoing problem with certain replacement shafts manufactured from inferior grade of material. Hard to believe that a safety critical part are / were supplied on aftermarket suspect - but that is the case. 2. If water has entered - other parts will be rusted and need replacement, there are often slight size differences on parts pattern/genuine. In fact some pattern relays are designed / built slightly different. 3. Genuine Rover parts expensive (if you can get them) . You may have difficulty getting a OEM / genuine relay complete presently. 4. Probably better and more cost effective to get a new relay unit from a reliable source. ----------- Relays are in fact quite a loose fit until bolted up - often a new bottom location flange washer is a loose fit on the machined dia. of the relay , people often get a good solid one turned to suite or convert the bottom flange washer to a pinch nut (to eliminate unwanted movement).

Good luck with these CD's - I hope you have a very late repaired version (apparently there is a recent patch). I have 3 qty. of these CD's and they are all a problem. There is a legacy problem on newer platforms - they freeze and crash the computer (XP). Most find any Adobe newer than ver.8 a problem with XP - best with a Heritage operating system.

You need plenty of "shock" from hammering on the relay cast body - a pneumatic hammer helps. Often the corrosion is the X member liner tube (you will probably find it perforated through) not the cast relay body. The relay spindle is also a shock-absorber against spring loading on Tuffnol cones - so a copper hammer on spindle does zilch. . Probably best to dismantle in situ. (the spring is not that strong - but take care) - water could have entered past the seals and the spring may be rusted up in any case. Once dismantled - you can play a propane torch on the inner wall of the relay casting , cold shock with water - and then hammer away.

NB the bit about post war replacement bodies manufactured by ESKANOR , this name in fact to me does not sound Germanic - more Danish , Norwegion or Swedish ?

http://www.m201.com/ITM/ITM.htm

The Phillipines is the place for the repro bodies (as once imported to UK by such as Foley). The Bemark plate - is that a export plate for such as a Besinger Bemak body ? http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b/Tech/ReproTubs.html https://www.dlbensinger.com/bemakexcl.php The rest - the correct description is probably Hotchpotch

Yes AFAIK - the two 109" UK registered in BB are the one at Elvington and the one owned by GavinL Another good photograph of it with trailer in BB http://forum.emlra.org/viewtopic.php?p=24605&highlight=#24605

More photographs , ISTR there is another UK registered 109" in BB that is not the one at Elvington - need to do more searching. http://forum.emlra.org/viewtopic.php?t=1752&highlight=berlin+brigade

ISTR they are to stop a 9' x 9' tent blowing away

Hard to say , the removal of lead was pushed through too quick. The FBHVC more or less collated results , chemical additives are here (bottom of link) :- http://www.fbhvc.co.uk/fuel-information/ A few more such as Wynns & Texaco introduced products but I have never seen any update on FBHVC website - the best type to go for , Castrol & Millers apparently.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-1180896/RAF-fighter-planes-used-super-fast-fuel-U-S-win-Battle-Britain.html What do you believe , where do you start. First find if a Mr Henry Broquet was in the employ of the RAF , what was he a specialist in , did he go to Russia. I suppose if you are so inclined - you could search records held by the RAF