Stormin

Military defender door tops! Best modification I ever did to my Series III. Got a pair for £100, no rot and no moss ever again. I know it's not original but who cares, no more drafts or drips! Well a few less anyway.

That explains the large diameter holes in the flange as well. Thought they looked a bit over the top for simply holding a halfshaft in.

I did actually guess it was a half shaft end cover plate but didn't want to spoil it for anyone else. What suprises is me is if it's just a blanking plate why does it have small holes for what appear to be puller bolts to screw in? Surely there's not much force holding a flat plate on especially in a short term temporary situation or is there as I suspect something more to them?

Buy two and sell the other for profit! I've seen people trying to sell them around the 5 grand mark about twice what they go for at Witham's. If you can do that it's effectively Buy One Get One Free as the Lancashire Hotpots would say. I got a mint very low mileage one for £2000+vat in tender sale but that was 2 years ago. It depends if you really want one you see or are prepared to wait. I put what I thought was a low bid in and was very surprised to get the vehicle for the money. Lot's of others were looking at it and another one, the best two by far in that tender. As Chris says you've really got to go and look, definately still bargains to be had and much better value than buying one of the refurbed ones in my opinion.

What really surprised me is that the HGV plating test at VOSA is cheaper than a standard car MOT!

Is it still in Phantom of the Ruhr livery (port side) for this year? I saw it later on on Saturday as it passed over Saddleworth War Time weekend and it looked darker than I remember from last year.

Surely just registering the vehicle as a private HGV means a tacho is not required? I know you can't register until tested but there's a box on the first test application form were you put taxation class as private HGV.

Nothing to do with the Antar clutch is it?

Yes you could fit a lock but it's not exactly secure just a small turn buckle. Probably best to fit a better lock, but then what's securing the main tank from theives? Not sure about the logic of carrying jerry cans horizontally either, it's asking to lose some expensive stuff to leaks.

No MOT and not registered for the Road? Save yourself over three grand and get one from Witham's next sale. Plenty available and probably lower mileage even better condition. Just make sure you go along and look what you're bidding on. Better still buy this one:- http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?t=13813 all ready to go and very very low mileage.

Second what Poptopshed said about using heat if doing it in situ but be ready to replace the bottom seal, they're usually leaky anyway, if not it'll leak anyway after you've so much as looked at it. Best field fix I saw for removing one when no puller was available was to remove the steering box and apply two simultaneous blows from large hammers to either side of the arm. You need good timing but I've never seen a more effective method of removal when done right.

Good to see you are thinking ahead. Got my Ward driving around a few weeks ago. I intended to take seat bases from my 101 for temporary use. Forgot and ended up sitting on the removed dynamo on top of the seat box to gain a bit of height. Not very comfy at all. Looking forward to seeing a few more photo's when you have them.

I know of three very large stone properties within a mile of my home have recently been sand blasted all by the same company, no sheeting or attempts to contain dust. Yet if I decide to use sand to blast a small component of my vehicle it is deemed illegal!

There's no problem using sand for blasting. It's the object that is being blasted that makes it illegal. Generally buildings, bridges and inanimate objects are fine. Things termed as articles, i.e. components and vehicles are illegal if sand blasted in an open space. There are many other alternative blast media besides copper slag which can do a better job than sand. http://www.centurywise.co.uk/content/pdf/Guidetoblastcleaning.PDF http://www.hse.gov.uk/foi/internalops/fod/oc/200-299/273_18.pdf

You'd need an army of friends to needle gun a 432 or a few years doing it yourself at twenty mins a time.

You can try to reduce the chances of grit getting past seals by taping over them a being careful with the direction and quantity of blasting in vulnerable areas. Get someone else doing it and that won't happen. Better still is to remove wheels propshafts etc completely to protect bearings. If grit can get in there's a good chance paint can get in as well when spraying, lower pressure but finer media and nearly as destructive in some cases.

Driving postion looks awkward to say the least. Pick a gear and stick with would be the order of the day unless you have very skinny legs. Is the handbrake meant to be applied after the driver has left the cab? Looks like there's a link missing from the cooling system between the heads! Apart from the above looks a very good truck, buy it now!

Are they limited to 20mph except on motorways or not allowed on motorways due to the 20mph limit? Surely the likes of CVR(t)s are well upto keeping with traffic on motorway?

I would've thought they are still classed as track laying therefore MOT exempt.

You'll need over 100cfm of air to get decent progress on sand blasting. Nothing to beat it for speed and a clean metal finish in all the nooks and crannies you can't get with any other tool. If it's large realtively flat panels (432) other methods may be nearly as good. Down side is dust and noise, but you get that with any other method of rust removal. Be careful around bearings and oil seals. Blast media will find it's way past even good seals into bearings. My past experience with getting someone else to do blasting is they always missed bits. I assembled my own kit so when I miss bits I've only myself to blame and it's easy to catch them again later.

Plenty of torque from the Gardner, 1 gear permanently selected should be enough. Go anywhere ability should limit the need for reversing. What type of wood did you end up using for the flooring? Will you use the same for the back body repairs? Are those new rollers for the winch guides or seriously cleaned up old ones? I can't remember back to when you last mentioned them.

Having a REO will exclude you from some camps not being WWII, but should be cheaper to run. Multifuel / Diesel engine should work out a lot cheaper than shoving petrol in a Jimmy. Being more modern should mean better reliability and parts availability. They do sound very nice with the whistling turbo but not sure how that'd go down on a long journey.

Never been to War and Peace so can't appreciate the scale of the event, but plenty of sites up North I can think of as suitable for a large event. Manby show ground near Louth, Lincolnshire used to host the wheels event years ago and steam rallies still had plenty of room for expansion. Flookburgh airfield near Cark, Cumbria. I was there for the second year running and this large airfield was no-where near full for a large mixed event so should cope with several hundred MV's no problem. Plenty of hard standing at both sites as they're ex airfields. A reasonable off roading area at Manby too.

Another first class bit of maintenance then eh?

I didn't think you could downrate the Daf 4 tonne 4x4 as the basic weight was too high to still allow the minimum 2 tonne payload. You must have it stripped down to the minimum no side boards and no canvas.