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Stormin

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Everything posted by Stormin

  1. My MJ had an almost new engine in. Oil as clean as new. It used to smoke a lot on start up from cold. It cleaned up once warmed up thoroughly. Diesels need to be worked a bit to warm up properly and have the turbo spinning to thin the mix of fuel into the engine. The Bedford lump is well proven and durable so don't assume the worst just yet. Work your way through the list as given by Swill, and also look at the turbo hoses for holes, collapse or oil contamination.
  2. Show's how much I know then. :embarrassed: I thought the heavy plowing was done soon after harvest, harrowing and seed drilling in spring.
  3. Yeah which farmer goes plowing in Spring? It should be done much earlier!
  4. Sorry to hear you couldn't access the site. Has anybody else been today and seen the rest of the show ground? I was intending to visit with family on Sunday, but if it's too muddy we'll have to give it a miss. We've got a pram to try and push round and get back in the car at the end of the day, if it's full of mud it'll be a nightmare. We also usually rely on a sit down on the grass for a rest and picnic at these sorts of events. I thought Chipping was a well established show so would be free of these problems. It has poured down this past week or two though.
  5. Just checked in the manual and here it is: "NOTE: On stripping an engine the cylinder head bolts should immediately be wire brush washed in 3M Solvent No. 2, manufactured by The 3M Company Ltd, 3M House, Wigmore Street, London W1A 1ET and availbale through normal trade channels in the British Isles and overseas. It is not available from Rover Parts Dept. If the bolts cannot be cleaned immediately, it is essential that they be stored in a bath of trichlor-ethylene, petrol or paraffin etc., which may also be used as a cleaner if 3M Solvent No. 2 is not available, otherwise the sealant used on previous assembly will tend to air harden, making subsequent removal very difficult. After four re-assembly operations renew all bolts. When re-assembling at any time, renew all bolts if more than two bolts exhibit evidence of elongation. If one or two bolts are elongated they must be replaced."
  6. Locktite generally goes off once not in the presence of air. I.E. when the bolt is fully tightened in a blind hole.
  7. No need to remove head bolts to remove cam or rockers. Got to admit I've never heard of the air embrittlement case before. It's not like the bolts are in an air tight environment when installed so I don't see how they can be affected for the short time they'll be out of the engine.
  8. A friend once told me that Rover made 200 variations of the V8 over it's lifetime. A lot of parts from other variants will fit. If it's a genuine unmessed with 101 engine, it'll be very low compression (8:1), small valves and small oil pump gears. The engine is basically a Rover P6, specification. When the SD1 was introduced in 1976, compression was raised, valve sizes increased and oil pump up-rated. As far as I know all 101's were built with the P6 style engine. Gearbox, clutch and transfer box are common to early (pre 1983) Range Rover. The 101 has lower ratio gears in transfer case which are easily swapped with Range Rover, for speed and economy improvements, though a better solution is the fitment of an overdrive if you can find one.
  9. Forgot to add that rocker shafts should also be renewed. These tend to wear bady on the bottom. If they've been messed about with and turned over expect the worst allround. Rockers should also be replaced along with the shaft as worn shaft metal embeds itself into the soft inner bearing material of the rockers then wears your new shaft away quickly. All these extra soon start to add up and it get's difficult to know were to stop. Valves, guides, head skim, all next down the list, but if your going to the trouble of doing it, it's worth doing it properly.
  10. If your changing the Cam shaft you'll want to be changing the hydraulic followers (tappets) as well or you'll quickly ruin your new cam. I've only done mine with the engine out for a full overhaul,but it shouldn't be to hard in situ, once radiator is removed. Obviously inlet manifold, timing cover and water pump have to be removed as well. The camshaft follower pre-load has to be set within a certain range which is the tricky bit by constant measuring then shimming under the rocker posts. Explained here: http://www.v8engines.com/engine-4.htm#pre-load May as well change timing chain and sprockets whilst your at it, there cheap and wear badly due to lack of oil, causing backlash in the timing.
  11. Just had a quick look at those list of files, not seen them before. You'd have thought the MVT would've spelt `Scammell' correctly!
  12. Different number plates front and rear, obviously for dodging speed cameras, or the LEZ!
  13. I believe the Leanne Booth explorer was for sale at Banks Rally Southport and shortly after appeared on Ebay. It was quickly removed from Ebay as I believe the Booths decided to keep it,but I may be wrong and it's still available. Not cheap though, but a very tidy example.
  14. Good to have you back Madrat. There's been a shortage of Scammell restorations on here. Be a shame if you have to part with the Pioneer, surely it'd have to be the Stalwart that goes first, you've got less time and effort involved in that one. New Project with twenty ton winch ehh? Don't tell me you've seen the light and bought a Ward La France? In all seriousness good luck with the restoration, hope your new found spare time re-fires your enthusiasm for it. Looks very clean before applying rust preventer. What are you using phosphoric acid? What have you used to clean up, surely more than just the steam cleaner there?
  15. Only what is written in TM9-796, section VIII, pages 83 to 98.
  16. Is that the 5ft length one for mounting on the boom, or the 42inch one for in the long toolbox? :readpaper:
  17. Not setting myself a date. I feel quite lucky to have got any time in at all on the truck with the recent new arrival in our family, so just taking it a step at a time. Weather will also be a governing factor I think as it's mostly outside work. Not sure I'll ever be able to sat it's finished. All those items of tool kit to try and collect.
  18. Well you wouldn't have struggled in a Gypsy, nice and light and four wheel drive, I was thinking of the heavier civilian stuff and transporters. Nice tidy vehicle by the way, haven't seen many in ex military guise.
  19. You could resort to blasting to get to the inside of those rails. :whistle: Trouble is when you start getting things clean is stopping yourself from using it everywhere. Don't you get fed up breathing through a mask all weekend? If it's not dust it's paint fumes.
  20. Good selection of large armour there. Looks like the going was getting a bit soft. Must have got a little interesting for the non military stuff come leaving time.
  21. I used to find it was all in the shoulders! Get your body over the wheel whilst manouvering and keep the vehicle rolling. The wheel won't move at all whilst it's stationary, not without excessive force, not good for you or the steering components.
  22. That's the final colour, but not the final coat. I've spot primed the nuts and bolts and done another few top coats. May go over everything again once things are all boted up underneath but I'm a bit wary of paint getting into joints and partially seizing them. The paint is a satin finish or semi-gloss. Looks very shiny for a few days then settles down to a more matt finish. The chassis pictures were taken 2 weeks after painting.
  23. Put the S cams in the lathe to clean them up. Also got the broken spring bracket welded up. All brake parts are now painted ready for reassembly.
  24. Been busy inside finishing off the brakes. New diaphragms in place. New nuts and bolts holding chambers together and newly made studs holding the chambers to the mounting brackets.
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