Stormin

Sorry Jim, Can't answer either question but just wondering if you are going to re-build the back body and lockers? I was told they had recently been done when I enquired about the truck, but on viewing they looked distinctly the worse for wear. Not beyond repair, probably, but in need of some work. Surely it should be the same timber allround?

Looks like he's even give them a going over with the Brasso before sending them on to you! Is it just the photo or is the threaded section bent slightly on the left hand one?

For leaf sprung vehicles the major damping action should be on spring rebound and not bump. If it's the wrong way round that'll lead to a very harsh ride.

Militant MK3 recovery. Plenty to keep you occupied there. I considered one but was put off a bit by the complexity and the propensity for rot in the cab areas.

Thanks Vince, They both look a similar and simpler way of doing the job than the frame hanging out of the rear. Last I recall seeing Mark Heliops had the frame though?

Soldering is the way I went with the K seal as a back up just in case I'd missed anywhere and as a guard against future leaks. Not sure how much is still in there as my waterpump is still leaking slightly.

Quite possibly! I did notice when I viewed the truck that the radiator was empty. Can you still get those round still tube type cores for the radiator? Wouldn't look right without them as it's such a prominent feature of the Pioneer. Would hate to think of the cost. I was quoted nearly a grand for a plain core in my Ward La France Radiator and opted to repair it instead. You could try the K seal stuff and see if it does the trick.

I assume the hydraulic extending jib is easier to control and possibly slightly longer reach. Just noticed that Mark's Ward has a similar modification around the rear winch to mine albeit with longer rollers.

You're correct. Although the base colour (gloss) is the same the shade tends to vary once the matting agent is added. Very hard to match two different batches of matt or satin paint. The solution is to get a large batch mixed and split into seperate tins for long term use. This is what the larger suppliers can manage in the commonly used colours, just look out for matching batch numbers. Smaller suppliers or less common colours lead to shade variations. The other ideal is to do a finish coat to the vehicles all from the same tin.

Bit more information on Wilson lathes here: http://www.lathes.co.uk/willson/index.html and here, http://www.lathes.co.uk/willson/page5.html but no mention of military use. I know lathes were commonly fitted to ships maintenance rooms. Could be a different explanation for the tide line?

Not heard of any of these but have you checked your firewall, anti-virus and other internet security are up to date? Sounds like maybe some card details could've been harvested off your computer. Alternately it may be someone you've recently dealt with has the lax security and have let your card details slip to someone unscrupulous. Have you cancelled the card with the bank/card company to make sure no further transactions take place? They don't always automatically do this now despite you complaining about fraud. Sorry to hear about this and hope you get it sorted with no loss to yourself.

Jim, Are you sure it isn't a split pulley and there should be shims inbetween the two halves? The long taper of the faces effectively alters the belt running diameter and tension. There's a similar system on the Cummins engine on my Ward. Had me baffled how to adjust compresor belt tension until my friend explained. The way you're progressing you'll have it out at one of this years later shows I suspect. Pioneer looks great. Every time I see It I wish I'd bought it but couldn't have done such a thorough job as you are and certainly not in the same timescale.

So that's the two new prop's he's been going on about!

But if the idea is to preserve the original look, then surely the charge wires should still run to the redundant control box (still in place) and bypass the internal workings. I would asume most people would require the ammeter where fitted to also work.

I don't think you'll be getting a 432 in a 20' container unless you break it down into pieces. The width of a 432 is 2.8m, a standard shipping container is 2.44m wide outside.

What happens to the control box (voltage regulator?) when wiring up an alternator is it bypassed or kept in line?

Gear ratios will vary greatly from truck to truck depending on weight carried, tire sizes to be run etc! The main ingredient of modern trucks speed is the power of the engines. I remember less than 10 years back a friend buying a Foden for heavy haul use 50-60 tons and speccing a 400bhp CAT engine. Was about the most powerful available at the time. Nowadays I believe 500bhp is not uncommon in run of the mill 40t artics. Contrast this with military vehicles from not too long back and 200bhp would've been unheard of. What I'd give for 200BHP in my Ward La France! And a few spare gearboxes...

Quite agree. Without the bodywork you get to see so much more detail. Looks very solid as well, will probably last forever as it is.

No! Solar panel for hybrid electric power! Still Scammell way ahead of their time.

Good find there. This one looks almost ready to go.

Thanks Andy, Already made the fatal mistake. I've a Land Rover 101 in pieces in the garage that hasn't progressed in the ten months I've had the Ward La France. I posted a few photo's of motors at Astle park including your very nice Diamond T on his thread. http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?t=13627

Catweazle will be disappointed! He's missing his smoking.

Just nod if you can hear me...

Dare I ask the cost? Just in case I ever need one of course.

Good job. As you say in the vid not helped by the lorry driver driving and varying tension on the rope. Looks like the bystander nearly gets a face full of rope as well when the tension goes back on. Explorer sounds well, with minimal silencing I suspect.