Richard Farrant

A photo of the Rush Green Antar on post #22 of this link; http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?19331-Rush-Green-Motors-on-fire/page3&highlight=rush+green+antar

Hi Tom, It looks like the stop lamp was not fitted after chassis no. 206400

Hi Ron, Your post has just reminded me that I have a couple of Austin tilly parts books, just dug them out and one is dated 1940, with stop lamp and the other is a 1945 Master parts book for all Austin Tilly contracts, it gives chassis numbers of when lamps were fitted. If you send me your chassis number I will work out what it would have fitted. regards, Richard

Hi Ron, I think the "no stop lights" was common throughout British built MV's during the greater part of WW2. There was a provision to switch the rear light over to convoy, but I cannot recollect seeing brake lights or switches to cancel them on most vehicles of the period due to blackout conditions. Richard

Hi Hans, Well done, looks like you have got a nice project there. They are a lovely truck and quite fast on the road, considering their age. Look forward to seeing you progress. Richard

Hi Hans, Do you know more about the last entry on the Ministry of Supply Repair plate? Reason I ask is the "Restore" has the number of a contractor from the long gone Army Auxillary Workshop / MTRS scheme run by Min. of Supply, and also the stamping on the whole plate looks like it was done by the same person. There were blank plates still around in recent years. regards, Richard

Hi Duncan, The last time I had one apart to reseal was about 20 years ago, while working for the army. I beleive the seals are not easy to find now, they are rubber and leather rings fitted alternatively, unless you have an early one which has a bladder inside. I knew a Saracen owner who was a marine engineer, he sent his away to a hydraulic company and they modified the piston to fit lip seals, which should be more reliable. regards, Richard

Hi guys, I have been charging accumulators for years on Saracens and the like, even Routemasters. If you need a charging head, a normal Oxygen one from a welding kit will work, but do not use oxygen! Originally the army used dry charged compressed air, but nitrogen is easier to obtain, try HSS tool hire shops, you can hire a BOC cylinder for a day at a reasonable charge, better than paying rental if you go direct to BOC. The hose and connection to the accumulater Schraeder valve might need a bit of inginuity if you cannot find the correct one. As for checking the pressure, a hand held guage capable of at least 600psi is required. regards, Richard

hi Tony, Like the nearly empty bottle of 30 year old Blue Hanger here, that was full once Best wishes to you all. Looking forward to an arc welding demo at W&P Revival with the Murex welder. Hope that is not putting too much pressure on you John? best regards, Richard

Hi Jack, Well, not quite right. I did buy a WW2 jeep about 15 years ago, had it for a few months and sold it on, no plans to buy another Yank vehicle though. Chris has already joined the dark side a few years back when he restored a Bedford MW and took it to Normandy. As for Snapper, I saw him running past me and he did not look back. All the best wishes for Christmas, regards, Richard

John, your garage is far too civilised

I was wondering if it was an adapted QLW Tipper chassis as they were split and bolted together, could have had some sections inserted. They had a short overhang behind rear spring hangers. My handbook for the tipper is not to hand at present, but your late airportable cab is another clue. They did have a mid mounted winch, but that could have been removed. Difficult to say from photos, without having a nosey around it. There is a number on the brass plate, where it says Contract, difficult to read but longer than a wartime contract number.

Hi Bill, It looks as though the chassis has been lengthened, between the axles and I think that I can see some bolts in the chassis between tank and cab, is there a piece been let in there? The front propshaft looks longer. The reason some QL's have two tanks was that the bodies were right up to the rear of the cab, there fore the standard tank and wheel carrier on a QLD cargo could not be used and twin side tanks were used on certain models. That brass palte is a postwar fitment giving the post-1948 army number at the top. This might be traceable at the RLC Museum, Deepcut. The chassis number on the plate does not point out what body type was fitted, you will find the chassis number stamped on the passenger side of chassis just behind the cab, on vertical face. It will start, QL, then next letter could be D, R, C, depending on the version. Richard

hi Ade, Welcome from another Kent member. Hope you enjoy participating on the forum. regards, Richard

thanks Hutchie. I came across a thread you started on another forum several months back and someone posted up photos of the unit in question, I think they could well have been taken in Italy.

The point I was making was that Algeria may have been the location of the workshop, unless of course he tragicly died at sea.

The engine weighs in the region of half a ton (or 500kgs for younger readers!). The flywheel housing is alloy and size of studs are, I think 3/8". The best way to work on one is to have a rotating bed where the block is mounted at back and front an evenly spread of load. I have done them on a low bench and using a engine crane rolled them over to work on. I would not use a stand as shown for an engine of this size or weight.

It could be Algeria, check this link to a war grave http://www.cwgc.org/find-war-dead/casualty/938758/SHACKLETON,%20RAYMOND regards, Richard

Glad to hear that Bill, nothing like a 28hp, bit slow on hills but good fun to drive.

Does it have a different engine in it? The radiator looks slightly further forward. :undecided:

Absolutely, in other words, if the drive gear does not come out with the distributor you cannot do this trick. Another method would be to have an external oil pump connected into the gallery to prime, just like the old Meadows 27.5kva gennies, where you pumped a handle to prime the system before hand cranking.

I see what you mean, but some engines have the drive gear on the distributor, so once removed the pump is free to be turned.

Hi Tobin, They are called Drive Screws and if you look that term up on google you will find suppliers. When I was rebuilding engines with MoD we used them to attach the rebuild plates to the cyl block.

I have been watching ..... Don't think that is a cattle body, no ventilation on the sides, looks like it has some sort of spreader attachment at the rear. Hope it is not a cattle body as there will be a lot of corrosion, you should have seen an Austin K6 that I cut up, it had been used for that purpose for years.

David will be missed, but I don't suppose he will be far away, you cannot give up an interest like that. He was always very helpful with any enquiry I have made.