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thefoxhat

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About thefoxhat

  • Rank
    Private
  • Birthday April 21

Personal Information

  • Location
    Bradley Stoke, Bristol
  • Interests
    Restoring classic cars for years and currently several american muscle cars plus the Willys Jeep
  • Occupation
    Commercial Manager, Nuclear Decommissioning
  1. The Bristol area has been sadly lacking in Car shows for several years but that is about to change. On 2nd and 3rd August 2014 the first ever South Gloucestershire County Show is being launched and a major part of this is the Murco Motoring event, to which all classic car enthusiasts are invited. The event will be held on a 170 acre site at the Windmill Fishery Showground, Westerleigh, BS37 8QZ The County Show has an enormous amount going on over the two days, a music festival, a mini balloon festival, fishing, shooting, golf, cycling show, a farmers market, lots of stalls and local groups
  2. I want to send my late fathers collection of bayonets to my Brother in Vancouver and I'm not sure if this is allowable and who would ship them? Any advice would be welcome please? I have used Interparcel to send normal family items to him. They are a website 'broker' who come up with rates using a variety of the normal shippers like UPS etc and they said they couldn't ship them. Also tried FedEx and they said they won't ship them or any militaria............
  3. After getting both front wings to fit properly they were all sprayed Olive drab and then we finalised fitting out the engine bay with all the pipes, accessories and wiring, lighting, etc Then work commenced on bare metalling the windshield, applying the primer and painting it and then fitting the gun rack. By this time we had also fitted the proper combat rims and new tyres which really did start to make it look the part again. All the new canvas from Worthings was fitted along with all the other little external accessories and then it was time to get the stencils done..
  4. Blimey, can't believe a whole year has flown by since I posted on here.... Well the Willys is now finished but not running very well.... Anyway after fitting the body tub back on the chassis I started finishing off all the remaining bodywork. Rear end needed the most work and both side but we got there in the end All the while we were fitting various bits to the engine bay, plus new wiring, the radiator, hoses, etc and finally got the front sheet metal all fitted roughly in place...... At this point there was definitely something wrong with the fit of
  5. Got the paint from Warpaint (RRServices?) and they just asked what year it was and sent the right stuff, but I seem to recall seeing on the label it referred to it as Tony Sudds Olive Drab. The pictures are deceiving though because of the camera flash and the fact that the paint definately changes colour quite a bit as it dries out over a period of a week or so... Well I'm sure most of you are probably well educated on here about how a MB/GPW Jeep comes apart and goes back together, but as my first venture into the MV world it was very interesting. This forum provided many useful links and
  6. Salvaged the original triangular strengthening plates from the old metalwork that we removed and these were blast cleaned, primed and plug welded back in place Here's an underside view of the new steps welded in place to the bracing/tub and then seam sealed prior to painting. I know its not 'original' but most joints will be seam sealed so that this Willys will last for a little bit longer on our roads ! Being keen to get on, the underside was also sprayed in a couple of coats of red oxide and then covered with the gloss paint before I realised that I had forgotten to weld ba
  7. With the tub upside down and the new rear panel tacked in place, the rear floor pan and wheel tubs were all plug welded in place after several hours of ensuring that everything was square and level Then the front floor pan was fitted again and finally welded in place. It didn't follow the contours of the old bulkhead join very well but with some careful welding and using a hammer & dolly it all came together much better than I expected. We just need to pull the front flanks in a little with a tie-down strap to get it to all fit very snug... Now we could put the tub right wa
  8. Now that my Willys Jeep is nearing completion (but not on the road yet) I made contact with John Wheedon, the area secretary of the Severnside Area MVT just before xmas and he mentioned their road run on Sunday Dec 30th. The day started out pretty wet, cold and miserable so I wasn't expecting much of a turnout but we popped along to see if anything was happening and found a hardy bunch of souls stood in the rain ! The rain soon stopped so we introduced ourselves and what a great friendly bunch of guys they were. Couldn't have been made to feel more welcome and it was great to have a look aroun
  9. Thanks John - I wouldn't disagree with what your experience tells you. The pics were taken about 12 months ago so the restoration is actually nearly complete.... however welding up the tub on a flat concrete floor, and checking for squareness and level throughout all the welding, the final tub actually fitted the chassis very well. I was expecting to have to do some elongation of holes and some stretching / bending, etc but it all lined up really well. However there is a small problem now in aliging the front wings with the grille shell as one wing appears to be about 12mm longer than the othe
  10. After 20 months of restoring a 1943 Willys MB (which has been very interesting and rewarding) the moment finally came today when it moved under its own power for the first time... What a momentus occasion - well it was for me and my son ! The jeep was bought as a non-runner so the condition of the engine was unknown, but it checked out OK, was cleaned up and put back together. Gearbox was rebuilt by Jeffrey Engineering but other than that everything else had been done by myself and eldest son working one day a week on the project on average. The restoration pictures are being slowly poste
  11. With the chassis complete, more work is carried out on the body tub... Whilst the tub was upside down and missing the floor the opportunity was taken to red oxide and gloss paint up inside the cowl area. Just makes me feel better knowing that 99% of it has a decent coat of paint ! Front floor pan now in place and ready for welding. Rear floor and the new wheel tubs plus new rear back panel are also clamped in place to ensure everything fitted together as it should. All the repro panels fitted pretty good and didn't require to much fettling to align which was a nice surprise !
  12. Thanks for all the suggestions.... We assumed no oil pressure because the oil filter canister never filled up and no oil came out the feed pipe joint to the pressure gauge, plus it sounded pretty awful.......... HOwever over the course of this week the pump was packed and refitted, the oil ways filled via the oil gauge flexi pressure pipe and via the valve cover. Today, the engine was cranked with no plugs/ignition and we got 25 lbs pressure on the gauge (oil also dripped all over the floor as we hadn't tightened up the connection on the back of the gauge either!). After fitting the plugs
  13. Well we did a quick search at the time but I didn't find anything definitive that supported what we found? Will go have a look again ! Yes been looking at G503 and that has been of immense help. Funny how things change because I started out to simply restore a jeep to a good standard that was to the best of my ability but not really bothered about it being 'original' or authentic down to the last detail. However as you find out more about the history things start to change a little and I became very keen to keep as much of the tub as possible, dents & dings included - that m
  14. Well I guess I might have been conned then into buying more paint ! We got the stuff from Warpaint and thats what the guy said we needed when we ordered the red oxide and olive drab. Pain in the rear spraying three colours so you reckon we could leave out the gloss green? Too late for most of the work now anyway !! We live and learn......
  15. You need to gloss paint over the red oxide and seal it. Olive drab sprayed directly on red oxide is still porous as its properties are the same as primer..... later photos will show everything sprayed in Olive Drab. Chassis plate number is 213788 which is Feb / Mar 1943 I believe? There was a number on the bulkead triangular gusset plate of 116022 Engine is not the original from what I can work out but not sure what it actually is. Any help here is welcome; Engine number is 140006 stamped on a flat horizontal area above the water pump head is stamped 640161 and the block castin
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