Richard Farrant

Don't forget, you are sitting in a metal box with bevel boxes fixed rigidly into it, and the transfer box behind although in rubber mounts still give off a lot of noise, then there is the fan. Sounds great doesn't it

Here is the link to a previous thread; http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?22199-Modern-units-for-Butler-type-headlights&highlight=%27Modern+Units+Butler+Type+Headlights%27

Malcolm, Brake manufacturers supply a special rubber grease for this purpose, it will not harm seals. I use some from Lockheed but there are others. Here you are, a bit of info for you; http://www.redrubbergrease.com/

Hi Mike, I have never seen chrome plated pistons in a Ferret wheel cylinder and have worked on them for nearly 40 years, however they do have a coating of some kind. Reason I was not sure about sleeving on a Ferret was due to an occurrence where a client called me out to say his Ferret was a bit sluggish for about 10 miles then seemed to go better after that, the on the return journey, same situation. I jacked it up to find 3 out of 4 wheel cylinders seized and brakes tight. What was happening was heat from brakes was eventually transferring to the cylinder allowing expansion and freeing off the pistons. Not uncommon but this particular case sticks in my mind.

As Ferret wheel cylinders are an alloy casting, I would be apprehensive in sleeving with stainless steel, due to varying expansion rates. Normally they can be polished inside and resealed. It is the pistons that cause the problems, usually because the previous person to work on the cylinder has not used a rubber grease around both pistons. There should be a gasket between cylinder and backplate to prevent water ingress and also condensation has to be considered. making new pistons from stainless would be a better option.

Looking from an organisers point of view, they are trying to keep the duration of the show the same but accommodating the needs of participants to get away in time, so they are back at work on Monday. The busiest days for public attendance will always be Saturday and Sunday, and even then some have to work on Saturday so Sunday is potentially a bigger attendance, so the organisers are foregoing opening to the public on Sunday.

Hi Clive, Don't know if it is significant but the book with the orange cover has the Queen's Royal Coat of Arms, rest have King's.

Larry, The only people who can answer your questions are the organisers, I would email or phone them to get the correct information.

Hi Jim, I am not advising going 2wd, it has been done by private owners in the past though. The weak link is the hub planet carrier. When in they were in service I saw more of those failures than bevel boxes. REME had regular instructions to check security of hubs.

Jim, I know people who have removed front propshafts and having driven one like that, I have to say it handles better. there is debate by some that you are putting more load on the rear hub and bevel boxes, but having had a long experience of working on Ferrets, I say the wheel stations driving are under less load, due to no presence of wind up. Ferret hubs have a certain weakness in that the bolts and dowels securing the planet carrier, and thus hub, are know to shear, due to the stresses of wind-up. It all depends on how you drive it, if you drive like a demon, then maybe stick to 4wd. Also if you envisage going off road at times then it would be embarrassing to get stuck. There will be someone who has gone for 2wd and had a bevel box fail, saying that is proof they will not take the load, but I have seen many bevel box failures when driving all four wheels. Your choice!

Maybe someone has fitted an incorrect rotor arm as it should not touch the cap, unless distributor bushes are worn badly.

Sleeving with stainless steel is what Past Parts do. I have dealt with them for 20 years and never had a problem from the scores of cylinders they have done for me.

Steve, Take the cylinder to Past Parts at Bury St. Edmunds, they make a superb job of reconditioning them and price is probably not far off a NOS one.

As far as I am aware, APGA was a prefix for Clayton Dewandre part numbers. Clayton Dewandre now come under the WABCO banner (was Westinghouse Brakes) and they could well recognise this unit and provide parts. Don't think that CD were ever in the AP group ..... but could be wrong.

Ah, OK, I can see it more clearly now, reckon you will have to adjust the end with a thinner or thicker copper washer, unless it can be tightened a bit at one end. Thought the hose was like the Scout Car, but can see it has different fittings.

I think the other end of the hose is like a bulkhead fitting with a nut retaining it and a metal brake pipe attached, you need to fit this end last, ie. fit brake cylinder end, then secure other end of hose. Unless I have misunderstood your question ..........

Hi Jim, I will jump in here, I am sure Richard Banister has stock of these senders, 01797 253211, thought I saw some there on Friday. regards, Richard

That spanner was supplied in the army Bedford tool kits as well, along with another special spanner for the manifold bolts.

Paul, A similar one which could be used is this one: https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/422-bulb-holder regards, Richard

Hi Mike, When checking a head for bow or low spots a precision straight edge and feeler gauges are the normal way of checking. regards, Richard

Sounds like elder pith is used in repairs of instruments, clocks, etc. Just found the following link, look at post #10 : http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=15340

I believe it could be used for holding specimens when working with a microscope.

Hi James, Good to hear from you again. The answer to your question is this. If you have reset the bus bar heights you will go through the sequence explained in the EMER (workshop manual), where by you mark the position of self adjuster nut, unhook spring from one end and turn nut back a quarter of a turn. refit spring and select the gear, push pedal repeatedly and watch to see self adjuster working. I should stop at the position you marked on the nut, if not then adjust the square headed bolt, in or out as required and repeat the operation until nut returns to the position it was marked at. Best of luck! regards, Richard

Thank you Jim! It is always good to hear positive feedback. The nut needs to be free on the thread, so now you know how to get the adjustment, I suggest you run it up and down the thread a bit with some penetrating oil, although I cannot imagine it is rusty. best regards, Richard

I hate to mention this but looking at your photos I would say the linings on 2nd gear band are well worn. The proof will be when you get the nut adjusted correctly and if the male thread is near the top of nut or protruding then the band needs changing.