101 Ron

To replace it you should be able to remove the pin for the lower wish bone. You will need to make 2 wedges to hold the upper wish bone connected to the torsion bar up out of the way. The wedges are hand made to a certain size and fit between the hull and the upper wish bone suspension stop.. With the steering rod ends removed and wheel removed you should be able to pull back the wheel station enough while it is hanging on the upper wish bone to pull the bronze hull tracta joint out of its housing. The trick is getting it all back together. You really cannot do this job with out some one who has done it before or a full work shop book which will have the drawings for the wedges that need to be made. If you are just going to drive the vehicle on hard roads etc and there is no oil leaking out I wouldn't worry too much about it. Here is my story of doing that job and learning the hard way. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/118657-ultimate-fc-53.html Ron

Go to the local office supply shop and look at the different sizes of spring loaded paper clamps advailable. They are cheap and a good source of spring steel. I find the spring steel in them can be rebent or reworked to a degree into different shapes. As is you should be able to find one that can do the job. I needed to find some flat spring steel strip for some Stalwart hatch door locks and purchased some very large paper clamps and cut out what I needed........all at little cost and purchased locally. https://warosu.org/data/fa/img/0067/71/1377497685628.jpg

I believe the GMC has a reduction ratio in high box and well as low box........so not really a overdrive effect so to speak.

Not a Wiles kitchen trailer, as they had turntable steering. The wheels and hubs look to be Australian Ford manufacture. Ron

Correct only for early closed cab Studebaker .......to the best of the information I have. GMC I don't know.

For high tension lead I used the old fashion copper cored stuff purchased from people who restore old stationary motors. The connectors for the sparkplugs I used NGK brand as they are quality and seal around the sparkplug giving semi water tight qualities.

Go for the electronic conversion as once set there is no more stuffing around. If you are carefull all wiring for the electronic conversion can be hidden inside the original metal conduit and housings making the conversion undetectable. I used normal BP5ES W8DC N9YC protruded nose sparkplugs as they are self cleaning and cheap. I did away with the ignition lead shielding as it takes much energy from the spark thrown at the plugs. I use the old leads and fittings with electrical shrink wrap to keep things water tight as possible. I now run 25 thou spark gaps with out trouble. I now have a stalwart that doesn't back fire and never needs its plugs out to be cleaned , even if the motor gets a bit fuelled up. It starts first time every time straight away without any choke.

Aussie/James I have not tried this job yet and watch your threads with interest as one day I will end up doing the same jobs. I do have some very good books on my stalwart for this, but I should imagen you have the same for the saladin. I know the workshop books are not easy to follow. Are the dowels removed from the inside of the housing...........the one that locates into the slot on the inner tracta joint......would that dowel stick though to the bevel box housing some how. Would you be able rub the corrosion off with engineers emery cloth feeding it around the bevel box housing . Could you borrow a porta power kit or purchase a chinese one and use that instead of a jack as you would be able the push the bevel boxes apart more accurately and with more force .....2 tonnes of the screw jack , verses 10 tons of a porta power cylinder. Is there any other dowels locating something inside....I think there is.......and would that dowel protrude though to the out side of the bevel box ?..............what locks the big special bearing nut inside the bevel box ? I hope my thoughts help . Ron

Since the Saladin is a total rebuild job and access will not be a problem, why not look at the set up used on the stalwart. Join all the breathers together without pressure valves to a central point or tank. The advantages are great as any small leak that does occur will not be too much of a problem as it will be topped up all the time. The set up saves much time as you do not have to go around and check oil in hubs or bevel boxes before a long trip. If any water enters anywhere just drain the hub or bevel box and new oil will come though. Sorry Aussie I was the one who took the last of Tims tracta joint ball seals. I think the UK is going to be the only place to get new ones as any seal supplied locally from a bearing supplier will not be shaped correctly on the lip of the seal to work correctly on the ball radius. Ron PS you a doing a great job and hope you the best .

Mazda versions are imperial and had the distributor central ???????and usually had VA cast in side of block and are 2 litre capacity. A smaller version was the UA and is of about 1500cc capacity..........they are direct knock offs of the British engines but with better distributors, carbys and better built.

The motor is a Vangard and widely used in many different vehicles. Mazda made it too and called it a Mazda VA. The last production of it was for Yale/Hyster forklifts........Model GPO50RC./H2 50XL Look for forklift suppliers if the distributor is Japanese........the Mazda forklift version still has parts widely and cheaply advailible. Ron

If you ever get down to Nowra way come and see me. We may be able to exchange notes. I have for the last 2 years been going though a learning curve with a Stalwart. I have been using garnet for blasting and then normal red oxide on to the rough surface as the grip for the red oxide is good. I have been using protec enamel for the final coat with a hardner added. Check my restoration site http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/118657-ultimate-fc.html Ron

Looking at the pic above, your suggestion of drilling the slotted plugs would work and On my Stalwart those plugs are not slotted, but allen head plugs( may be a improvement). Yes impact driver is the best bet , that doesn't work then drill out. Just to remove the bearing a bearing extractor tool could be used that locks into the bearing itself using half round ball type legs after destroying part of the bearing cage, but I can little point in just removing the bearing. One other thing at may work is to use a slide hammer on a plate made up to fit a plate made to go on the 6 protruding studs and nuts( like the hub cap taken off previously and the slide hammer shaft threaded/attached to the middle of it.

I have been running a Jolley kit in a B81 Rolls Royce ( stalwart) For the B series engines this kit is light years ahead of the standard points system. It saves having to time the twin points set up and using a sector tool etc. The electronic ignition throws a better spark which is so badly needed on military screened systems. With the jolly system the 24volts on starting can be left as is or may set to run 12 volts all the time. To get the full improvements from the electronic ignition removing the screened ignition leads and running civie protruded nose sparkplugs at a wider gap stops the B series sparkplug fouling problems and the civie plugs are cheaper and self clean. The extra wire (power supply wire) can be run totally unseen inside the standard wiring tubes and housing, but is difficult to pull this wire though to do this. The wire can be if it is too hard to run the thought the standard hardness etc can just be run to the distributor in plain site just to save time. Electronic ignition is very worth while on the B series even if the cost is a bit high up front , it will save time and money in the long term. You will no longer need to set the ignition timing again.

Tim has all the seals and those special bolts and has been going though his large store of spare parts and located everything needed. Now is the time to ring Tim while he has everything fresh in his mind after chasing the same parts for me. The O rings are off the shelf items , I think the common P/Ns were 214 and 221. Tim also has the spacers that carry the O rings if needed. He seems to have Hundreds of every item. The seals for the big ball joint are special items. To remove it you just carefully support the bronze housing between some blocks of wood and get a very large screw driver and place the tip of the screw driver behind the seal and give the screw driver some hard taps with a hammer. I am going to carefully try and knock in a new one with a flat plate or block of wood. One of the workshop books shows a drawing to make a seal fitting tool with appears to be a round plate and a bolt pulling down on the new seal pressing it into place. Ron.

I nave been running my 101 for years with a aftermarket electric fuel pump mounted on the chassis. more reliable than the standard pumps in the tank. Much cheaper too.

I have to do this job on my stolly. I think the shaft may have a step in it and it will only come out from one side and not the other ????

Before and during the early part of WW2 popular makes of civie bikes were impressed. The later part of WW2 WM20 BSA and WLA Harley were used.Early 1960s small number of 250cc BSAs were used( the same configuration as the later 350cc B40 BSA)used along side WLA Harley until late 1960s.From 1967 BSA 350cc B40 used( had special gearbox ratios) similar spec to British army ones used until 1975.Last of the B40s sold from army auction with parts about 1982.!974 Suzuki GS 400 used in a general service and MP version until about 1990.( the Suzuki had extra electrics and lower gear ratios than civie versions.)Yamaha XT 600 used after that, many different jap bikes used since.

It takes awhile to get to know the workings of a stalwart, but when you do you find they are straight forward to work on and easier than the Saracen/Saladin cousins.

Rust is the big thing. look for rust in the body work near the mufflers, inside of the hull above the wheels( have to pull the floor plates to check correctly), rust in and around windscreens and roof hatches. Look at what the vehicle has been used for.....paddock basher ?????. has the stalwart been in regular use.......sitting around a lot is just as bad as been knocked around a lot. Is oil leaking out of wheel stations, are the filler plugs all aligned on the hubs indicating the bevel boxes are OK. If you want to swim it , does it have all its swim gear and are the seals and side doors in good condition ? Does it have all its fittings. Has the rear body work been open to the weather and the hull allowed to fill with water , or has it been under cover ? Is the hull full of oil, indicating transmission oil leaks ? The rolls in the rear tends to be reliable, but will burn oil if the motor has been sitting for along time. They are a lot of work and you need access to good plant equiptment workshop. They need a good understanding of the how to service and look after as they are different and does the current owner have the know how to have looked after the vehicle correctly. Do the brakes work ? Ron

Tim Vibert has the muff couplings in stock for the drive shafts.

On my Stolly I had just over 3000kg hanging off the crane just off the side of the vehicle. It leans a bit, but the atlas crane is set up so the vehicle will not tip over. At full reach the capacity is 1449 kg at about 4 mtrs.