101 Ron

The head lining is a card board type material with a brown smooth surface on it like a old card board school case. The head lining is sewn together above the doors so the card board type material can be the correct shape to follow the roof line. The door seals are rubber internal with a cotton outer bead.

I have a very original studebaker.........I will take some pictures for you. Ron

I am tradesman qualified MIG,TIG,Stick.....shouldnt be a problem for me and I have a good MIG. Just time poor to do the work.

Go though the pages on this site......it has turned into my restoration thread..........you should be able to acess it.http://www.aulro.com/afvb/fcs-military-variations/118657-ultimate-fc.html.My progress has been slow, but steady.I have not touched any of the rear body yet and this is where most of the rust is.(under tool box and exhaust/ plate above wheels too)Windows,very front quarters near parking lights, support bars for floor plates, sides of cabin under windows and triangular support pieces behind battery between the cabin and cargo area above wheels are the areas in the cabin.I am trying to currently needle gun the worse of the flaking paint around the area between the cabin and the cargo area around the fire extingisher system etc.(been using a vacuum cleaner to suck up as much as the paint flakes as possible.)I need to leave my stalwart mobile as I cannot work on it inside the building it is stored in.It appears to be good mechanically .Get the Jolley electronic ignition, it made a huge difference to mine.Needle guns in this country can be expensive, the cheapest option is to buy a air chisel at $40 and then find a tool shop which sells a needling tool attachment for a air chisel for $40 making $80 dollars in total.To buy the dedicated needling tool would cost me $250 dollars.The needling tool works well on the stalwart, but is extremely nosiey and you need to be about 400mtrs away from anyone. Im planing when I find the money to purchase another 24volt bilge pump while the cabin plates are out to replace the hand pump and place it between the parking brake drums as the stalwart (mine has the crane) appears to be nose down on both land and water. Removing the hand pump would make access to the front of the hull easier too.RonPS google You tube.... Alvis Stalwart Nowra and my photo bucket site which ishttp://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/#!cpZZ16QQtppZZ16

I am currently trying to do this with my stalwart. I have limited time to work on it so progress is slow. My stalwart has many coats of paint and much corrosion, but luckly it appears I will not need to replace plates in the cabin, but the windscreen glass will have to come out at some stage to treat the rust and re water proof. I use a needle gun, while it does not leave the smoothest of sufaces to paint on , it does move the rust and provides the new paint with a grip. I find the needle gun is reaching all the important places with only a few missing out. Every thing I remove a plate , or cover on my stalwart I find more and more work........good luck and thanks for showing your work and giving me more incentive to work on mine. Ron

The stop light switch on my stolly was not working, so I pulled it a part. It took a while to figure what the real problem was. I found the contact points bar bends back slightly and the points do not make contact correctly. That contact bar gets hot if the points are dirty and melts the plastic behind it and allows it to bend out of the way more and get hotter still, until it fails. I think I filed and cleaned things up and placed a small piece of plastic behind the points bar. Its been working well ever since. The body of that switch looks the same to me as a Leyland Boxer truck item. Ron

The pics has a Impco system and the small brake diaphram chambers are for the shaft disconnects. I personally will use different impco components on my Stolly when it comes time to put gas on it. Impco has made LP gas components for large engines since the 1950s. A 460 Impco mixer would work much better on the B81 rolls The conversion is easy , it is the fitting of gas tanks without cutting up the vehicle is the issuse as well as hull ventalation if a gas leak develops.

The body work on my MK2 limber appears to be much wider than the hubs. I think the track, tyre centre to tyre centre is 2 mtrs. The hinges for the side gates is the widest part. I think even if you removed the hinges and the brackets, you may be just very slightly over width. Thanks for the thread catch 22 as I am looking to do this soon to my stolly keep up the good work. Ron

My Stalwart is missing its plate. If I dont get lucky I hope someone else does. Ron

I am watching this thread with much interest. My stolly has been patched many times and I am at the stage of where I do a fully replate job or to keep patching it. I am worried about if the welding distorts the metal enough to affect the position of the side gate hinges etc and the size of the job required to completely replate the sides. No stolly body parts are advailible in Australia...ie side gate seals. This site is of my progress of going into stolly ownership and where i currently am. Ron. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/fcs-military-variations/118657-ultimate-fc.html catch 22 good luck with it all and please show me the way.