101 Ron

I was given this generator today. It looks to be reconditioned. I have no need for it, and want to find a home for it. It was saved from the scrap bin in the 1960s from Albatross naval air station in Australia. The man who owned it is selling the farm and was having a clean out. Some of the markings are... HA BRUSHES P/N SUA/188 generator LX Type LX RX27945 12 volt 750 watt. 1766/703 the tag with it is dated 1954 Any ideas???????

I am trying to remember and therefore may not be correct. loosen the four small bolts in the centre of the pulley as they lock it ? one pulley sheeve turns one way.......Left hand thread and the other pulley sheeve turns the other way Right hand thread. I think a special spanner is suppose to have been used to turn the sheeves in what way you needed to turn them to get the adjustment correct. I managed to do it by hand and by turning the fan blades. If coming loose.....the four locking bolts are not doing there job. I heard lazy mechanics would do the old flick them off job with a big screw driver when the engine was idling....not recommended. it is possible to fit them on that way too.........not recommended. Ron

Richard as you implied for tax reasons English motors of the time had small bores and valves. Another reason for a F head design on the B series was the need to keep the bores small to keep overall length of the block short as possible on the bigger 8 cylinder motors. I find the B series motors interesting from a design point of view . The more I learn about them and why they designed things the way they did......................every part of these motors was well tested and reseached.

Richard you are correct about exhaust valves getting hot on side valve motors and I wondered this myself. In fact very high outputs with side valve motors tends to distort the cylinder bore with heat from the exhaust valve. One of the people who helped designed the B series worked out the exhaust valves could be made to last longer and cooler if a F head configuration was used with a wider than normal water jacket between the valve seat and cylinder . During design much adtension was paid to cooling water flow around the exhaust valve seat. It should be noted one of the reasons why the combustion chamber is so long on the B series is the need for the cooling passage between the valve seat and the cylinder. The B series as far as I am aware as given little trouble with exhaust valves,but I never worked on them in field and as Richard implies that may not have been the case. One of the reasons for the B series high fuel use is that long combustion chamber and the heat losses into the cooling system overall..

If the bushes themselves are advailable it would be possible to machine out the earlier type shocks and press in the later type bush with a bit of drama.

Hi Aussie. I found this problem with my Stalwart. There are a early series type shocker and rebound unit with smaller bush and pin. The later type has a larger pin and the O ring either side of the shocker its self. If using the later type NOS replace the O rings, as they look OK ,but you will find when you remove them they are melted though old age. The metal ring on the outside of the O ring will flick out with a screw driver and tap back in with a hammer. I think on the earlier series with small pins there were some detail differences in washers with the O rings over them. Tim Vibert did have both types of shocks Ron

Just one another point about the B series and what I have noticed about my B81, that it is the easist motor I have ever owned petrol/diesel to start hot or cold...........retarded static timing may be a factor in this ?

It should be noted before the days of pollution control Vacuum advance was for improved fuel economy during light loads and cruising speeds as more ignition advance could be had under light load conditions. Light cruising load rarely happens with military vehicles and the little bit of extra fuel burn was not a worry to the army and therefore vacuum advance was not needed.

In the research I have done on the B81 Rolls is the ignition timing is retarded static ,to allow hand crank starting without kick back. Soon as the motor runs.........ie idle speed the ignition timing is normal and then though to normal ignition advance at higher speeds.............I understand the distributor advance to be set up that way. I understand to static advance the B81 more than TDC will over advance the motor overall. The combustion chamber on the B series is long and narrow with a long cylinder stroke. The side exhaust valve was purposely done that way for better exhaust valve cooling and the long side valve like combustion chamber with long stroke to give broad power delivery over the rev range as the F head design breathes reasonably well too. It must be remembered too that the B series designed for indifferent fuels and temperature extremes. I would be happy to be corrected............it is what I have around with my research so far on the B series motors. Ron.

Alvis must have found a easy way fitting wheel stations at the factory.. One day someone may tell or show us.

Just Two more things I though of. It may not be paint friendly but a super big pair of locking multi grips or locking pliers they now use on engine oil filters on modern cars is handly to rotate the wheel station on the housing over muff coupling to help align up the bronze housing on the the steel button inside the bevel box housing. The design of that wheel station Tolley jack adaptor is important. The drawings for it are over complicated and everyone made tends to be different. Mine supports the wheel station reduction hub in the groove around the hub cap ??,so I can push on the tolley jack and the wheel station and hub will want to move around less. The susport for the tracta joint end is slightly lower than it needs to be and I find it is great as I use small pieces of wood is packing to correct the height during fitting of the wheel station. Other tools to think about is a huge rubber tyre fitters hammer and mechanics round alignment pry bars.

I found I used a combination of both a trolley jack wheel station support and a simple lifting bracket on the wheel nut studs. I used the lifting bracket with a jib on a forklift, but there is no reason why you couldn't use it with a cheap engine lifting trolley crane. I found with the forklift I could .......say support the wheel station with trolley jack alone and then place the Tyne of the forklift on the wheel station hub and have it idle in gear which places a steady pressure on the wheel station in towards the hull while I shook the wheel station and tried to line things up. I was fitting the wheel stations by myself, outside in a gravel yard (tolley jack wheels didnt want to turn) and it took much trial and tribulation. Get someone to help you. You know my restoration thread have a look again. Ron

Another thing I have learnt the hard way is every single pin/part try fitting it where it should go first before the actual fitting of the wheel station.. Some thing as small as a flake of paint can make the fitting of a suspension pin extremely difficult. I ran a adjustable reamer lightly though the holes to ensure the pins were free. Remember the bronze plug / housing with the cork seal on it must have its slot correctly aligned to the steel button in the bevel box housing.............if the bronze plug /housing is tight you may have trouble feeling if it lines up correctly.

I have struggled refitting Two wheel stations now. Both times I ended up splitting the drive between the tracts joints instead of fitting the whole lot in One go. Fit the tracta joint on the hull first as it is easier to line it up that way. The last one I did I use expoy glue on the surfaces between the drive fork and tracta knuckal to ensure it did not move during the lining up process. The glue will break and wear off when you use the Stalwart. I then fitted the wheel station, but you now have to align the muff coupling when 3/4s the way through fitting the wheel station...........I did it after getting the top suspension pin started. You have to get the muff locking pin and access holes aligned and think about it all alignment wise before the start of fitting.( including timing to the other wheels) You use longer than standard 3/8 UNF bolts to help pull the to halves together and add sealant as a back up to the small O ring just before the halves meet. The draw back to doing it this way is the splines on the muff coupling/tracta fork drive shaft can get end float while siding together and the pin hole may never come into view even though it is correctly timed and lined up................ensure the muff is a easy fit over the splines. It may not be the correct way above ,but so far it has been the only way that worked for me.

If it is a Jeep..........a new starter,battery or cables will not help you if the bush in the bell housing has not been replaced. The bush may look good ,but if slightly worn will cause what ever starter is fitted to pole out and draw excessive current and crank the engine over slow as well as leaving little voltage left for a good spark.

On my stolly I found the wires on the guage had been moved on purpose. The engine oil level change over switch has a fault in that the rivets in its construction cause the switch not to work. the switch is then by passed the best way the mechanics think possible. A small amount of solder on the switches rivets fixes the problem. I still have to remove the fuel sender..........and check it out. Ron

Read though some of the pages on this thread and it shows some of the interesting features of the fast stalwart and the set up of the sliding muff couplings. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/118657-ultimate-fc-61.html http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/118657-ultimate-fc-62.html http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/118657-ultimate-fc-63.html http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/118657-ultimate-fc-68.html

Raising the transferase gear ratios requires Four large gears to be cut with lots of time ,expense and effort which is not a option for most people. The decrease in ratio was something like 40% and its first gear is now somewhere between the first and second gear of a standard Stalwart. The 60 mph is done at comfortable RPMs and on LPGas. Steering improves with the front and rear wheels disconnected. The real issuse with the 60 mph Stalwart has been gear train noise and much insulation has been added.

The shafts don't have to be supported by a extra bearing. You machine the existing muff coupling so it supports the shaft without driving on the splines. You also add a ring onto the out side of the muff coupling so a engagement fork of your own design can move the muff coupling. Extra support can be added by fabricating a threaded sleeve to replace one of the bearing locking nuts on the bevel box and the sleeve is long enough to support the outside of the muff coupling engaged or not. The drive disconnect provides much better performance on road and better steering due to the reduction of wind up. Here in Australia we have a Stalwart that cruises at 100 kph with transfer case gearing mods and a standard motor. It is only possible to do those speeds due to the reduction of wind up with four disconnects fitted. The disconnects used do not have the drive shalfs supported with a extra bearing and they spin much faster than a standard Stalwart. This 100 kph plus Stalwart has done thousands of kilometres on Australian highways and can run odd size worn tyres front or rear. The extra bilge pump is worthwhile as is checking out the speedo and parking brake.

While you have the tanks out you should consider fitting some sort of drive disconnect on the front drive shafts. It is impossible to do with the tanks in at a later date for the front. It is a very worthwhile mod and lifts the machines performance on road and saves wear a tear. Google Empire trading for Tim Vibert Australia for the ball joint boots. He has much ex Hong Kong Saracen stock much of which inter changes with the Stalwart. Ron.

I got a full set of boots from Empire trading too. Get a extra boot as it is a good fit for the gear stick too.

MK 1 stalwarts had grease nipples on the ball joints and it is easy to convert MK 2 ball joints to grease nipples. Judging by the photo from my thread from another site used earlier in this thread you should have the information to do it. Just ensure you drill dead centre on the back of the ball joint as you have to miss a spring inside the ball joint. Grease will take time to completely get its way around the working surfaces of the ball joint, so little grease often is good. The ball joint filled with grease will water proof it dust boot or not I used 1\4 UNF threads and grease nipples as they are small and the rest of the vehicle is UNF Ron

The seal on the end of the bevel box is removed with a seal remover, which is a hook like device with handle. It gets under the seals lip and and kind of flips it out. Tim has new thin locking nuts for the bevel boxes in stock. http://www.gettoolsdirect.com.au/kincrome-seal-puller-325mm-13-8060.html?gdftrk=gdfV26854_a_7c442_a_7c1200_a_7c87515&gclid=CJLV54_ek8ACFZcnvQodtisAIQ