Ron
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Everything posted by Ron
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PS I did mine like this. I just fancied something in a Desert scheme! Ron
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Never seen the white ones Stef. Have you got a picture? Ron
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Trev/Andy.The slot needs to be there for the correct cable to be installed as the adjuster feeds from the outside. Here they are on my 3SW and 3HW. Same thing on the 5SW I am currently restoring. Ron
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I don't know what the post war boxes are like? But all the wartime boxes I've seen have a slot in the cable lug. Easy to put in with a hacksaw. Probably easier to buy a complete correct cable from 'JJ Cables' 01926 651470 cableman7@hotmail.co.uk Ron.
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You can buy the period gold transfer from http://www.classictransfers.co.uk/pages/gallery/triumph-7127-75x7mm-pound1.751992.php?p=50 for less than £2. Number 7127. VMCC also have a transfer scheme which is good....but their website is crap. Ron
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Jack, going through some of my collection. 27" is about the narrowest on Matchless G3L and Norton Big4 and up to 31" on the Matchless G3. Everything else is in between. Ron
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Wally I have sent you a PM. Cheers Ron
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That would put the 3HW just behind the Matchless G3L at 16 BHP, which as far as I can tell had the largest BHP of the Brit WD bikes. Any chance of getting hold of some of your 3HW data Wally? Just to add to my own records. Ron
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Absolutely you do! Ron
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Definitely do NOT use EP gear oils in these boxes! The additives in 'Extreme Pressure' oils have a detrimental effect on bronze bushings. Most of these bikes use ordinary engine oil. With the exception of Burman boxes which require semi fluid grease. Ron
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I've used monograde SAE 50 in my 43 CO gearbox for years. Ron
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Matt I've replied to your PM. I'm up early for Kempton and home this afternoon. Ron
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Of course I forgot about Geoff. Check his stall tomorrow at Kempton Park. Ron
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Triumph 'single' main engine parts are hard to find, but items such as pistons, valves, guides, crank bearings etc shouldn't be a problem. Lots of other parts were carried over to post war bikes and can be obtained from dealers such as Trisupply in your home county or Ace Classics in London. John Brewster makes fork spindles/bushes and head stock bearings. I'm also in Dorset (Poole) and have a 3SW and 3HW in my collection. I'm also currently restoring a 5SW for a friend. Give me shout if you want to pop in. Ron
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I know where your barn is Steve. Just leave the key under a brick........I'll find those parts!! Ron
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Metal Magic can thread your barrel if you can't find a genuine one. Ron
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Terry Roberts at Metal Magic makes quite a few repro parts for these including exhaust systems. 01189 731631. Mention my name. Ron Pier
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That is correct on the badge Nikos. The post war badge replaced the white enamel with brass. So it's quite easy to paint it in with Humbrol if you have a small brush and steady hand. Ron
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Also after going to great lengths to reproduce the Miller tail lamp. I eventually found an original quite cheap on ebay. The seller didn't have a clue what he had!! Not many of these supplied. Just the Flea, Velo MAF and the few Miller equiped Matchless G3L's. Ron
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Before I found an original tank badge. I got an arty friend of mine to paint in the white bits as per the war time badge. Ron
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Enjoy it Nikos. It's from the same contract as mine, which was demanded on 2nd Jan 43 and completed by early 44. Ron
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I use Morris's straight 40 in engine and primary and 50 in the gearbox. But straight 40 will do fine all round. Best not to use a modern detergent oil in an old engine. Ron
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Can't argue with that Guy. But there is something decidedly quaint and antique about the thump of an old M20 or 16H. I was very surprised when riding with some Dutch guys in France a couple of years ago when I had trouble keeping up with a large Dutchman and teenage pillion nephew on a Royal Enfield WD/C (350 SV). Ron
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KINELL!! Looks like you need a proper brake cam. Not sure if I've got anything. But if Ted has a spare one to borrow, we can easily get one made. Ron
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Chris did you phone Ted yet? He's in your town and usually has spares on the shelve. Even if not for sale he should be able to look at what you've got and advice. I might be able to recognise some faults with your set up but Ted is the RE man. A study of the illustrated parts list is sometimes better than the work shop manual. I have done my best with my front brake and it has the correct parts but it's still rubbish. I rely mainly on the rear brake. Ron
