Ron

Yes there were officially only about six AJ's supplied to the WO under WD contracts. However there were a few impressed AJ's. Including a recorded batch of 54. One of these 54 impressed bikes has been through my workshop and the owner wanted it painted green. Another example has just come into my possession and bares a census number on the crankcase that is just three numbers away from this original picture. It seems the bikes were in civy trim with the census number stamped on the crankcase and repeated on the front number plate. Ron

I have spent the last week or so preparing the petrol tank after getting it soda blasted. A good few coats of 2 pack high build primer and lots of wet and dry and then a couple of top coats. I used some stencils from 'Axholme Signs' and waterslide transfers from 'Classic Transfers'. Ron

It would seem so Dave. Good find! However there is nothing recorded to my knowledge that indicates the engine number sequence.The first contract for Welbikes bore frame numbers 14-1213 ( for some reason the first 13 frame numbers are missing). I don't know if they started life with matching frame/eng numbers? Or just fitted any engine into any frame. My own MK1 is from this 1st contract with frame number 555. The bike was found derelict in India with eng 1893. Was it the original engine or a replacement??? Maybe Lex has more info on this.? Ron

Not so easy to find, especially in the UK. The guys in Canada and Australia still seem to find some in the bush. There's this one on Milweb if it's not already sold. http://www.milweb.net/webverts/63442/ There is also a dedicated carrier forum on MLU. http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=6 Here's my 1944 MK2 Canadian (not for sale) Ron

But is the engine number prefixed XXE? Which is correct for an Excelsior Welbike. Most engines you see are prefixed XXA for the Autocycles. The XXA engines fetch around £100. A genuine Welbike engine could be worth 5-10 as much. Ron

But Steve, I think the M20 clutch plate were always the Ferodo type. With the bowler hat cover to keep the oil out. Ron

For 20 odd years now I have run my M20 (now 600cc) with one steel and one friction plate removed. It makes for a much lighter clutch and no slip or drag. Ron

Hello Windy, where are you located? Any pictures of your special? I've done a bit more to the build up of mine. I'm about to work on the forks with some mods to the headlamp arrangements. I have a 1938 BSA petrol tank with combined oil tank and a 1935 BSA steering stem to fit. The intention is to make the whole thing, not easily recognisable. Ron

I have finally got the exhaust system fettled and installed. Ron

As Richard has stated the practice at the time was for mechanics to have a feel for it. They even had different length spanners to act as a kind of feel/torque factor. It's more important that they are tight and even. My advice would be to nip them all up in the correct sequence and tighten all bit by bit until you are nearly at a safe full tightness. Then give number one bolt it's final tweak that feels good with a ring spanner or ratchet. You can then check the torque setting of this bolt to tighten the remainder. It's also more important to check tighten the bolts after the engine has been brought up to temperature. As an old colleague told me when I worked as a motor mechanic. "Tight is tight lad" There is no benefit in stretching a bolt. Ron

Unbelievably Rich. While I was busy selling stuff at Netley. Lex found one of those silencers in perfect condition. He said it's correct for his 'Royal Baby' project. I thought it looked too big and when he realises that, he will probably give it to me???!!! Ron

After sand blasting the exhaust system, I decided that the front pipe was too far gone and not worth saving, so I got my tube guy to make a faithful copy. However the unique fishtail silencer must be saved. All the dings and dents have been brazed up and I have sanded it up in readiness for final preparation. I have also fettled the foot-peg hanging bracket. Ron

That bloke is always showing off Rich! I could easily do that if I wanted too! Ron

I remembered where I'd seen the picture! All be it Canadian. Ron

I have only ever seen it once so far in a wartime picture. It was on the bike of a sergeant instructor during motorcycle training. I wish I could remember where I saw it. It certainly wasn't normal practice. But one picture can give you a certain amount of artistic licence I suppose. Ron

Yes a very nice picture. I'd say it's a pre war Velo. MAC. Ron

Steven and his Mum Linda at AMC Classic spares are always helpful and useful. http://www.amcclassicspares.com/ Ron

I thought it would be easy to buy a ready made plated WD/CO petrol pipe from Hitchcocks and modify it to suit. After all, how much different can it be? WRONG!! The sweat was dripping off my nose today whilst struggling to re-bend it and get all the nuts to line up as well as avoid it chafing on carb, mag, frame etc. Ron

I had to use some cotton covered cables for the dynamo and horn. But otherwise it's an original loom. Here are a few more shots showing:- 8" blackout mask - view from riders right eye with pre war pattern dome glass ammeter and Jaeger speedo - MT110 tail lamp - and general views. Ron. PS. The Clearhooters horn sounds like a very weak cat!

Funnily enough Steve, parts of this loom are shiny enough to be PVC but is in fact real rubber. The whole thing has the coloured tabs at the ends. ( I have some from EES). There is a redundant cable from the headlamp to past the battery and I have managed to pull it out of the outer sheathing. There might just be enough for the horn push. I never follow the wiring diagram for the horn. I much prefer to pick up the live feed from the battery rather than the ammeter. The only modern cables I have used are the ones inside the headlamp from switch to bulbs. I'm using an 8" blackout mask so no need for a dip switch. I've also fitted an original MT110 tail lamp and I'm not going to spoil that with a brake light either. I should get the wiring finished tomorrow and take some pictures. Ron

Also with this bike, came a NOS DU 142 headlamp attached to which was best part of a NOS rubber wiring loom. I've never owned such a loom. I'm going to use it and just add the missing bits in sympathetic black cotton covered cables. Ron

The whole speedo assembly for this bike is strange, to say the least. For some reason Royal Enfield fitted reverse drive speedos to some of their pre war models.....of which the WD/L is derived. Brian Woods (Speedo repairs) was able to reverse the action of my standard Jaeger pattern unit, by adding an idler wheel somehow. Tom and Dave at JJ cables have surpassed themselves with a bespoke cable. Of course I had to endure Tom's sarky comments as usual.......But it's all done in the best possible taste!! Ron

OK. Probably like BSA the model year for 39 started in Sept 38? Ron

Yes the proper ones are moulded from rubber and have a raised up portion at the 'T' end. The other cheap crap are just stamped out of sheet neoprene and will snap as soon as you look at them.......Britbits sell the good ones also. Ron

John your 3HW comes from the last contract of 8000 built Feb-Sept 45. starting with frame number 53418. This contract was reduced to 5200 machines. By my calculations, your bike just squeezes in as the 5126th machine from this contract. I also calculate your tank census number as C6106543....... Courtesy Steve's book. Ron