Ron

This is how mine is Graham. I have a small diameter rod (1/4"?) sewn in along the top edge, and a total of 5 turn-buckles. All the original mudguards that I have seen are steel. And then you also have a steel valance on the nearside of the front wheel. Ron

5949 is from contract S1945 for 4000 WD/RE's in 1943 (same contract as mine) and the frame number being repeated on the engine case is exactly correct. However I'm intrigued to know about the actual engine number you have (M 1801). Normally the engine number would start with a 'V' (villiers carb) Ron

All together now girlfriend, with the arm movements.......Y....M....C....A. Ronxx

Thanks for the comments chaps! The engine in now fully put back together and carb overhauled. The exhaust is prepared and ready to fit. I've repaired a small crack in the otherwise very sound original type silencer, and put the tank markings and transfers on. Like the RAF there are Unfortunately no remaining records for RN census numbers. So some artistic license again by picking a number and style close to original war time images. Ron

The front wheel is now in the correct way round and I have repaired the original front mudguard that came with the bike. I wasn't happy with the repro, it didn't look quite right! The mag has been rebuilt and the engine is going back together with a rebore and new dome top piston which takes the compression from 6.1 to 7.1. New brake linings, tyre and cush rubbers at the rear wheel and an adapted WD/CO field stand, as I want to keep the panniers. A correct NOS Clearhooters horn, supplied by a Belgium friend an air filter box and some new cables fitted. I'll probably have the whole day off tomorrow....BAH HUMBUG! Ron

I think I have a spare set of points. PM me and I'll have a look. Villiers stuff is easy. Ron

It's a 35T sprocket on the wheel. Most WD bike were lower geared to their Civvy counterparts. Dropping a tooth on the civvy model would raise the gearing. I have a workshop manual and a spares list for S7712 1944. Ron

There is an extended stud shown in the parts list which fits through the silencer to exhaust pipe clamp. I have hung the rear end of my spring on that stud. No 25. If you click on any number of the Hitchcocks on line parts books, it highlights the part with price and whether it's available. Ron http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbooks/pages/2123/Crankcase_Studs_&_Bolts_,_Decompressor,_Engine_Sprocket_&_Exhaust_System

No Davey! Apart from the carb there is nothing Villiers about the bike. First try Hitchcocks.http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbooks/269/1946_RE125_(Flying_Flea) But bare in mind some of the post war civvy parts are different. Ron

It's Steve who is getting confused! He's confusing my frame number with yours, and he's even miss quoted that!!!..........Poor bloke is getting on in years you no! Ron

Here is my frame number on the right side headstock. Ron

That's exactly how it should be. Which shows you have the engine which was fitted to your frame at the factory. As I said, the engine was stamped on the crankcase with the frame number. Here is mine which also matched my frame. The same thing applies with other Royal Enfield models. The actual engine numbers on the C and CO for instance is stamped under the magneto, the frame number is then stamped just below the barrel. Which you can see here on one of my other RE models. I have no idea why they did it this way? Ron

The actual engine number of a Flea is stamped on the rear engine lug and should start with a 'V' ( For Villiers carb). An engine was taken from stock and once fitted to a frame, the Royal Enfield system was to then also stamp the frame number on the crankcase. Effectively giving it two engine numbers. Ron

Just picking up on this thread. Did any further information come to light on these carts or tyre size? Are they made from steel tube? Cheers Ron

It should be quite easy to make the blanking plate. By using a piece of steel bar or socket or something of the same diameter as the hole as an anvil and with a slightly bigger disc of 14-16 gauge clamped to the top of it and gently peen the edge round. Ron

Thanks for that Lex. Yes I long ago changed the headlamp brackets for the shorter ones. I've had that re-enacted picture of the bloke holding the Flea for a long time. I didn't realise it was your bike though. Cheers Ron

I have seen it in a very few war time pictures and I have done it in the past on some of my vehicles/bikes but I don't do it any more as i think it's more likely a post war feature. Here is the ammeter blanking plate that Metal Magic made for me years ago, but I have a feeling it should have a rivet in the centre. Something to check on and correct if necessary. Also showing the correct Miller switch. And if you want to get really serious, here is the correct Miller fag end tail lamp. Ron

Sorry, forgot to post the picture. You can also buy the tank top transfer and the lube details and the headlamp Miller transfer from "Classic Transfers" Ron

Thanks for that 79. It has also been confirmed to me by Jan who runs the RE register that apart from a couple of minor errors, all Royal Enfield census numbers ran in sequence to the frame numbers. His formula also confirms my calculation for Dave's number. Here is a good indication of the stencil style, which you can probably get from "Axholme Signs" http://www.axholmesigns.co.uk/ Ron

Fair point Ivor, but it is generally considered that the main manufacturers ran the census numbers in sequence with the frame numbers. But nothing of course is cast in stone. I found this out with one on my Velo's, where I calculated the census number in sequence, but then found out from the VOC that the factory ledgers show my number to be out by 11. But then there are quite a few anomalies with Velocette, who did a few things not quite according to the book. Ron

Your Flea is the 583 rd bike in that Contract S6602 and I calculate your tank census number to be C5816733. The painting of white tips was normaly done for home use for blackout purposes. Like the white edges to the wings of cars, to try and avoid everyone bumping into each other. I don't think you want any such target in a theatre of operation. Ron Factory picture.

Yes thanks for the posts. I have been gathering information and parts/equipment for my 4x4 PU since 1989. I have acquired an Australian 11 set and most of the ancillaries are also Ozzy. It's near impossible to find British stuff. So far I'm still looking for the proper 'switchboard charging No1' though. Ron

Here is the further information for the Wireless battery auxiliary charging system. Of course I don't know if it's exactly the same for the 4x2 Morris PU. Ron

Yes I think you are right on closer inspection. It looks like a direct drive. I'll post up the further information I have later when I get chance to scan it. Ron

Here it is. The dynamo is mounted on a heavy plate just above the PTO. I have the spec of the type of dynamo and regulator used. Ron