Ron

Also make sure you have the correct mixing chamber bottom union nut. There are three different lengths to choose from. It's the short one for a CO. Hitchcock's can help you for Amal parts. Ron

When I bought my Tilly back in 1989 it came with an original tilt, but the top (Bren gun) panel had been replaced with a totally different colour canvas. So I bought a new one off the Worthing's, which was just a tilt with no windows or panels. They also made me a rad muff. But then they gave up on British stuff to concentrate solely on US vehicles. Some years later when Allied forces started up, I gave my original tilt to Jim to hopefully find a suitable piece of canvas to replace my top panel, which he eventually did after about 3 years. I think he used it as a pattern to make some tilts and he also borrowed my rad muff to copy. Sadly since Martyn retired and left Jim on his own, I think he also concentrates on just US vehicles. But worth a call I would think and maybe mention my name. Ron Pier

Tony, I love my son and my Grandkids to bits, but sadly no interest in anything remotely green or oily. I guess by the time the Great Grandkids come along it will all have been sold off and transferred into smart cabriolets and home extensions. Ron

I couldn't begin to break it down Tony. Apart from the big end and mains white metalling. My rebuild included new pistons and re-bore, all new valves/guides/springs and hardened seats. Hard chrome re-metalling to the cam shaft, surface grinding to block and head and remade rear oil thrower.... etc, etc. Ron

My own Morris PU has a 6 cyl engine with all white metal bearings. There are still some specialists around to perform the task. I'm sure someone will advice you of someone in your neck of the woods. Basically the metal has to be poured in then machined to fit the shaft. In the old days the metal was often scraped to size. My advice would be to take the block, crankshaft, rods to the specialist for complete check and overhaul. You'll only have to do it once. Ron PS I won't tell you how much my engine rebuild cost!!!

Yes I am aware Richard but worth pointing it out for others. I bought a 5 gall drum of the stuff with a mate from 'Specialised Products' in Ferndown. The axles however take Hypoid oil. I'm also aware of not using EP oil in old gearboxes with Bronze parts. I'm just waiting for my mate to get his arse over here to help me put the trans back. Cheers Ron

Is this by chance the Jeep I inspected near Dorchester recently? I agree with the others. No CoC or MOT is required. However DVLA do pick vehicles at random for inspection. I'm told at about 1 in 10. Hopefully you will be lucky and not get picked on. Just fill out the required form with the dating letter from MVT and see how you get on. DVLA also seem to have a habit of losing your cheque and or asking for extra information. Ron

Nick Jeffrey explained to me that the brass synchro ring must be a tight fit to the taper on the gears. Such that when you push the ring onto the 2nd gear taper you should be able to pick the gear up by the brass ring and shake it about without it dropping off. They soon bed in of course, but it makes logical sense to me now that I have stripped and rebuilt my gearbox. Here's hoping for some crunch free gear changes at last. Ron

Thanks for the replies. Nick at Jeffrey Engineering is sorting me out with parts......Most helpful and obliging guy. Ron

Does anyone know where I can obtain a NOS original synchromesh from, for my 42 Willys Jeep. Ron

Simon I quite like the flood lamp change over switch idea as my own Jeep is British. Have you got original data/specification for what you have fitted? Ron

I couldn't bring myself to use stickers or magnetics. I've done loads now with the low tack stencils and rattle cans. With care you can even cope with the double curvature of motorcycle tanks. Ron

I get all mine from:- http://www.axholmesigns.co.uk/ You need to quote what vehicle and markings and locations for a more concise answer to sizes. Ron

Andy the air/mag levers I showed are not quite right for you as they have the pivot clamps and not the standardised saddle clamps. I visit the Kempton and Shepton jumbles on a regular basis and can advice that you are only likely to pick up levers in dribs and drabs over several visits........Unless you are luckier than most of us. But feel free if you like driving on the M1 and M25. There is a guy in Cairo called Hussein who has lots of lever parts. He's a bit difficult to deal with as they don't have paypal in Egypt yet. But I can vouch for him. Mention my name if you want. sl_hussein@yahoo.com Ron Pier

Oil debates can get long and winding. But I keep it simple in my collection by using Morris's SAE 30 in my vehicles and Morris's SAE 40 in my motorcycles. Gearboxes are according the the manufactures lube charts. I know that EP (Extreme Pressure) gear oils have additives that can be harmful to bronze bushings. Ron

OK Andy, it's a while since I worked on a Triumph, but I now have a funny feeling that the handlebar clamps have a BSF thread. They won't be Whitworth, so don't tap anything through till you're sure. I collected this complete set of 1" levers in readiness for restoring my 3HW, before I realised it had 7/8" bars. So I had to start all over again. The air and mag levers are the standard Amal type with a saddle clamp and two screws. I have noted the chain spec down as:- Rear 5/8" x 3/8" x 90 links. Primary 1/2" x 5/16" x 74 links. One of the most knowledgeable and nicest person to buy chains from is Jane at http://www.sprocketsunlimited.com/ Ron

This is mentioned in the classified section by Dave. But I thought it was worth reiterating here. So if anyone is interested, check out the classified section for more info and Dave's contact details. Ron I've been in discussion with a manufacturer that can make the "Not Available" centre (long) suspension band for the Flying Flea . Hitchcock Motorcycles claim they are the same size as the small band and just need the width narrowing ...........they are not . The photo I have attached is of both small and long suspension band , the long one is an original very kindly loaned to me for comparison , as you can see there is a difference , the difference is 18mm . The manufacturer can make these too the exact spec as the original ,the drawback is I have to order a minimum of 50 . I have had some definites of people wanting these and was hoping to gauge the interest with some more definites before I go ahead with getting these made as the cost to me is £475.00 inc vat which equates to £9.50 each , all I'm trying to do is cover the cost and provide the correct band for all the Flea owners so I'll sell these for what it costs me. Hopefully there will be enough interest . If anyone is interested please pm me with the amount you want so I can decide whether to go ahead with it or not . Thanks Dave

Andy what contract is your bike from? From memory the last three contracts of 3HW's were fitted with "standardised" handlebar and controls. So the original 1" Triumph bars were replaced with M20 type 7/8" bars and Amal controls. I have the illustrated parts list for these bikes but it still shows the same illustration as the earlier bikes, with the pivot type clamps to the air/mag levers, which is not correct for the later bikes. The valve lift lever is also shown in a strange place, but I guess it's just for display purposes. Ron PS most of the fixings will be BSC (26 tpi cycle thread) Course Whitworth threads into ally etc. You can buy cheap UK made zinc plated fixings here:- http://www.nookysnuts.com/

Leighton's will do it in a sympathetic modern vinyl. http://www.rk-leighton.co.uk/ Ron

Funnily enough, I've recently been reading this up. I have several books on CO's and there are different versions of the answer. From grease to SAE 50??? I've always used SAE 50 and so has my mate Ted who is an outright RE man. But I have just started topping up my 'G' gearbox with 140.......Can't hurt and might slow the leeks a bit. The Burman boxes in Matchless's use a semi fluid grease, which you can buy from Morris's or someone or google it. But it shouldn't be used in gearbox's that require oil, just to slow the leeks........Nor should EP oils be used in our boxes. Ron

I stand corrected. Ron

Jenk in a trip from Bournemouth (where I live) To Herriot country........What the Hell where you doing in Guildford man? Ha Ha only joking! I went to Bedale to pick up a car last year. If I never see that bloody M1 again, I wont miss it! Once there though, I found Northallerton to be quite quaint and picturesque . Ron

Likewise I first met him at those Bovy do's in the 80's and we were all well used to his outspoken manner. Lately I've been bumping into him at motorcycle jumbles. Despite the fact that he ran over someone's car with one of those ex Iraqi tanks he was still one of the few who was allowed to drive the Rolls Royce armoured car. A definite Brylcream biker bloke and as said "another character gone" Ron

I always start by turning the pilot screw out 1 1/2 turns. I have the same problem with my well used CO And G. Oil weeps from the kick start shafts, which will probably need re-bushing on the next overhaul. My G also leeks from the drive end main shaft bearing, which I'll probably replace with a sealed bearing at some point. In the mean time, I just keep them topped up and try not to park on posh block paving. Ron

Triumph parts for singles is always difficult. I would first try Les at Russell Motors (phone only) 020 72281714, mention my name if you want. Or maybe his brother Geoff on gjmyers@mac.co They still have some NOS 3HW stuff. Ron Pier