Ron

Interesting! I've owned my own Jeep for over 30 years and it came to me as an ex British Jeep (Butler lamps etc). But I've never checked it out. It is chassis number 159838 and I've kept the same bonnet census number that it came with 5474235. It has a Ford tub fitted, but no post war army rebuild plate. My Tilly however still has it's rebuild plate which states it's post war number was 00 RA 25. Regards Ron

Coincidentally I have been talking to another guy from Yeovil who also thought he had a military AJS. However, his has all the correct Matchless numbers. Someone has simply fitted an AJS timing cover and mounted the mag at the front. The bike was painted black over the army green and AJS stickers attached to the tank. At first he was disappointed by the news, but now he's got excited about owning a WD bike and has already re-painted it to military spec. I'm also helping to research his late Dad's old 7th Somerset Light Infantry markings (43rd Wessex div) so that he can pay tribute in June this year. I believe he'll be looking for the correct timing side at some point. Ron

The engine number is stamped 41 (1941). What do you mean by fins? Is it the support webs around the drive side main bearings? Ron

Yes got the PM. I'm sure I can see where a frame number has been sanded off on the N/S headstock. Ron

There where really no AJS's supplied under WO contracts, but quite a lot of impressed civy AJ's. (3 have been through my hands). I have the parts list with frame/eng numbers. If you want to PM me your numbers I'll have a look. The black colour would have no bearing on RAF. Ron PS. not sure what you mean about "No frame serial number" They all had frame numbers from the factories.

Still the frame was not quite right, so some more cutting and welding has been done. The front frame has now been stretch up by the required 1 1/2". The tank tube has been lengthened by 1 1/4" and the rear frame has been suitably altered to fit, and all re-painted. I've started the build up again but I know I'll be held up to some degree by the refurbishment of the Miller magneto and dynamo.(I'm still waiting for the dynamo to arrive). I'm really chuffed to have found these items but the old guy I'm dealing with is a bit eccentric to say the least. Jan is doing a marvellous job of making the unique oil tank come air filter. Hopefully he'll post some pictures of his workmanship. Ron

Hi again Kostas. Jan is on the case regarding the oil tank and will have a go at making one after I've confirmed the size of the available space to fit it in. First got to tidy up and re-spray the frame. Ron

And now the frame is back. So time to start all over again. Ron

Hello Kostas? Well I built the bike up before I'd realised that the frame on this experimental bike had also been modified. But since I was going through the DVLA registration procedure with imminent inspection I had to put the project temporarily on hold. Inspection completed and registration received so I've now totally stripped the bike again and the frame is with my engineer for some modifications to make it about 1 1/2" taller. (Then the rear part will have to be tweaked also). In the mean time, I've been on the hunt for a 'Miller' Dynomag. I got back from a full day trip to London yesterday with a mag (dynamo to follow by post). I've also acquired a Miller 35E tail lamp and correct head lamp to which I've added a medallion badge. I just need the frame to be sorted before I can crack on again. Ron

I've only ever used straight 50 in mine, although my 'G' box leaks a bit and I've been adding straight 90. But it hasn't helped much and I'm reluctant to touch the box until I'm ready or have to, as it's such a sweet box. I would perhaps throw in a couple of handfuls of grease while it's open and then top up with oil through the filler neck. There's this stuff from Hitchcocks. http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-tools-silkolene#part_4110 Ron

I'm quite sure you will have to remove it from the frame if you're going to replace the important bearing. I would fit a sealed bearing and just remove the inner seal for a leak free gearbox. Ron

I don't know anything about that unit other than what is on google, but coincidently this just turned up on ebay. I don't know how genuine it is? He says it's ex WD, which is written in the log book.......Under 'Model'?? and in a different pen?? Who knows? Lots of bids though! Ron http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201540310627?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Well I would say that the clues indicate it comes from contract C5108 which was for 3300 bikes and that engine number 27161 is only 445 away from the only indicated number 27606. I have seen at least three 'impressed' AJS's with the census number stamped on the crankcase like this one below. So perhaps it was the done thing with those early bikes? Ron

No, it's the same principal as a push bike. As you turn the top fixing it draws a cone up the inside of the handlebar stem. The stem has slots in it, so you effectively expand the stem to lock it inside the frame headstock. Sometimes a bugger to move the handlebar which has been locked in the same position for a number of years and got rusty inside. Ron

I agree Malcolm. If you re-timed the valves without moving the mag pinion and engine, the ign timing should be as it was before. Assuming it was set correctly in the first place? These are best set statically as per the book. I'll be interested to hear if you get it running nicely. Sometimes it's just down to dirty fuel and/or plugs. Regards Ron

OK Malcolm, I don't know if calculating the size of the gears will work like that? I don't have a TRW in my collection, all my bikes are WW2. But I have Velocett's and I only mention these Velo's because they are unusual as they also have the odd number of teeth on the timing gear and those same auto advance units, and from memory it's something like 79 revolutions before the dots line up again. You could recheck this if you pull the cover off again. Regarding the ignition timing. On my side valve singles there is always a removable plug over the piston crown to put a gauge in to check the timing. Something like a drinking straw marked at TDC and then in your case 1/8" further up for the point were the CB points just start to break. Of course you would have to removing the cover to hold the auto advance unit at full advance. Again apart from my Velocett's all mine have a manual advance handlebar lever. It's a shame if the manual doesn't give the piston position at full retard as well. On the Velo's they quote (from memory) something like 7/16" BTDC full advance or TDC at full retard. Also not a major job if you have to take the head off to check it properly. I gather from friends who ride TRW's that they are sweet smooth rides! Ron

Malcolm I've been following your Carrier problems and you obviously understand engines. But here you have fallen into the trap of starting something without the aid of a workshop manual! Here is a link to a free download. http://www.scribd.com/doc/22255431/Instruction-Manual-for-TRIUMPH-TRW-Mark-2#scribd I've copied page 15 here (Valve timing). Once you set the timing it will go out of sinc for a good few revolutions due to the odd number of teeth. Very likely you have lost the ignition timing now? I don't think you can blame British bike quality here. Ron (UK)

Yes Bryan, what happened in REME workshops is one thing, but I think the colour codes stated by the War Office for a factory finish would have been much more stringent. Very probably there could have been shade variation between paint manufacturers of course. That still happens these days at B&Q, even with modern technology. Ron

Well if you go for paint from a UK auto paint supplier (I use polyurethane mat from Rainbow Paints). The British standard numbers are BS 499 for Service Brown and BS 298 for Olive Drab. It's my understanding that vehicles mid war were Service Brown and British Olive Drab came in 1944 to fall in line with the US colours. Ron

It's not me with the wrong guard Ferg! It's Danny you need to speak to. However, I'm fairly sure that the front guard on Danny's WD/C is off a post war Triumph. Here is my WD/C and G3 for reference. Close up pictures on request. Ron

3418 must be a Villiers number. I have it on my ML and Flea carbs. Ron PS. All the war time production ML's had the engine AAAxxxxxA letters

Yes he is and he was actually here at my place last week checking on a Flea part. I'm afraid he's a bit scatty with emails so best phone him or Drew on 01189731631. Ron

Steve that would be a huge amount of spare frames to keep in stock! Over 2300 in fact. Do you think that would be a standard or necessary procedure? Or is it possible that more were built as complete bikes and the records are just missing?? Ron

I think those bottom links with the extra bit for the CO side check springs are the only ones you can get from Hitchcock's now. I've used them and just cut the extra 'L' bit off and sanded the end to a nice shape with my angle grinder. Ron

Yes this is a WD/G with rubber foot pegs, Not a WD/CO which didn't have them. Basically the G and CO engine power is the same But the G has heavier main shafts to the crank. I think the gear ratios are much the same also. But to me the G is a more pleasurable ride with heavier fork links and rubber mounted bars and rubber grips and pegs etc. Ron