Grasshopper

Terry, PM sent. Regards, Vince

Interesting that it is part of the AC203 series of Alternators. I remember learning about them at college during my apprenticeship. They were fitted to pretty much every commercial and PCV in the 1960/70s.

Booked my recently aquired MUTT in, see what happens on MOT day this Friday.

The one you get to play with, but not pay for.

The modern equivalent materials will likely have to comply with modern fire regulation (among others), so will necessity be different to the original. I had the same issue when hunting for a suitable alternative for the interior of a CVRT. I found a near-match, but it was the end of a line so alas I can't obtain any more. I really ought to start making the panels!

Many inaccuracies on the CVRT page...

4 berth caravan for sale. Purchased by me this year as an experiment to see if it was more comfortable than a tent at shows (it was!), with a view to upgrading next year. Used for 7 nights total and towed from Surrey to the Isle of Wight and back with no issues. Land Rover Wolf not included in sale. £500 o.b.o, collection only from Horley in Surrey.

Make turns like a 50p with regular stabs on the steering is what I've been told by a friend who shed a track at an agricultural show. He was driving on loose dirt (the advice was given retrospectively to him!)

It never leaked in my garage! You must have done something silly like put oil in it...

I was going to use one of those, but in the end didn't need it as the state of the tank was obvious (once drained out)

Did this recently and concur with the above information, although I don't recall having to remove the gearbox stays. Our tank was full of rust (the vehicle had been purchased running on an auxiliary supply via a hole in the hull to a fuel can!). Our tank was so rusty that it had one side cut off so it could be shot blasted, and once repaired was treated with a fuel tank specific epoxy coating.

Unfortunately you'll need to remove the whole differential/final drive assembly as the mesh between the pinion gear and the crown wheel teeth will need to be reset accurately. Changing the bearing will alter the mesh of the gears, and could cause accelerated damage/wear to the assembly. I've not done it on a Bedford, but setting these things up usually involves some way of measuring pinion bearing preload, engineers blue on the teeth and a whole bunch of trial/check/re-adjusting until the desired gear contact and bearing preload is achieved. Sometimes this will require shimming to achieve. Hope this helps. Vince

There is a bit of info about the cookers here: http://www.ferret-fv701.co.uk/useful_info.htm

There is a general scarcity of CVRT bins of certain types. I know one collector had a run of turret side bins made, and they went very quickly. I have an original for one side, but am missing the other. I'm fortunate in that other than the one turret side bin, we have a full set for our project vehicle. Possibly not all from the same eras though! Gunner and commander sights are becoming scarce, night sights even more so. Again, lucky us, we have both and a NOS gunners night sight. Other than the later style front bins, I've not seen many up at what some would call "reasonable" prices. Those that are advertised are the prices they are due to scarcity (a bit like Ferret stowage bins).

With CVRT you need less heavyweight lifting capacity! You can just about get away with a hobby use engine crane for most CVRT jobs (we've always had the luxury of Militants, Ward LaFrance wreckers and off-road forklifts), so on that front I'd say CVRT is easier (if infuriating at times) to look after. 432 is pack out for a lot of tasks, for which you need a lifting frame and a crane of suitable height and capacity. In terms of reliability, I can only speak from experience with CVRT but apart from an engine that went bang it's always got us home or (at the very least) driven back to the transporter even when misbehaving with engine/gearbox/steering faults. 432s seem to either work, or not at all. CVRT can also be rescued with a Land Rover in emergencies to a place of safety. 432s you need a large vehicle to shift them. I've seen few 432s at shows with the decks up compared with CVRT though! Once sorted, as long as a CVRT is used fairly regularly they seem ok. Most suffer from lack of use. CVRT are more fun on the road (I've ridden in 432s on the road) and easier to handle as they are smaller.

Ah, the veritable Bird-Watt meter! We used those at work when as part of diagnosing faults with on-train railway radios.

I had (dangerous) wheel wobble on my DIsco, and after failing to overcome the issue put it in to a reputable local LR specialist who diagnosed it as insufficient pre-load on the swivel bearings. My wheel wobble got bad (rather quickly), and on one occasion it made itself known and almost threw us off the road.

I've found cracked porcelain(?) connectors on the spark plug ends of HT leads before now, causing all sorts of odd faults. I may have a stab at renewing the HT cables on a spare loom at some time soon, as being steel strand cores they rust. Not easy to replace HT cables on a CVRT as in my experience when you remove them from the distributor cap, at least one of the pins in the cap will snap off.

If you're looking at tracked armour, forget about mpg; single figures is all any of them will achieve. CVRT will only get 4-6mpg. Also rare to find one with a good interior unless you're paying big money. Cruddy engine bays are par for the course. I forget how many times I've cleaned out our Spartan engine bay out over the years. By virtue of the fact that the cooling air flow runs through the engine bay, it suck in all and any crud and blows it all over the place. Unless you find one that's been stored inside, AFVs tend to sit with some rain water in the hull. If that doesn't do it, the condensation will. Just some observations having been playing with tracks for the last 12 years or so.

Had the same problem on a friends WC51 - it would conk out when it had about half a tank in it, and also sometimes going up going up hills. We had to cut the tank open to find a poorly effected repair on the pickup pipe.

To check your fuel level

Clive, Did you manage to successfully instal a new limit switch, only I have the same issue on my Wolf. Bizarrely my wipers self park if I bring the vehicle to a halt! Vince

Steve, More CVRTs there than you will see anywhere else, plus a Challenger 1 (amongst other things). You'll enjoy it. Vince

Another thing that can happen (certainly on Cummins pumps) is that there is a fuel return valve in the top of the pump, and if this jams open all fuel pressure is returned to the tank, thus preventing the engine from running.

Without knowing what the pump looks like, I've come across a few cases where the rack has become stuck (unlikely as you were driving it), and also had cases where the pump governor has failed due to a lack of lubrication (some CAV pumps required manual lubrication). Failure of the governor can result in the engine not running, or more excitingly leading to (usually catastrophic) pump and engine runaway.