Sean N

And both are variations on George Washington's axe... and I bet even that wasn't the first use of the phrase. Harald Hardrada's axe, perhaps...?

That'll be Mrs Mallowan's house then... Also known by her maiden name of...

Robin, where were the sparks from, the adaptor? Was the adaptor the final connection i.e. Bedford already connected to slave lead?

I've done a fair few engine conversions in the past, for customers and privately (Perkins 6.247 into Austin K9, Bedford 330 turbo into Austin K9, BMC 6/98 into Morris MRA1, Leyland O.400 into Bedford RL, Bedford 330 into Bedford RL, various engines into Landrovers, etc.). To my mind there are a number of points to consider: 1. How bothered about originality are you? 2. What are you trying to achieve with the conversion (power, speed, reliability, economy, spares availability, replace an unobtainable original engine, etc.)? 3. What's your budget? 4. What engine can you fit on your budget that'll achieve what you want? 5. If your object is economy, how long will it take to recoup the conversion cost particularly if you're using an expensive engine or paying someone to do the job? 6. Will your chosen engine fit in the hole (length, width, height, ancillary positions, crank centreline, etc.)? 7. Will your chosen engine have any compatibility issues (maximum revs / gearing, suitable torque curve, 12V vs 24V, air vs vacuum, etc.)? 8. Are there any foreseeable issues with ancillaries (compatibility, different parts needed, availability, fit, routing of plumbing and electrics, etc.)? 9. Will you have to change anything else to suit the conversion (springs, brakes, transmission etc.)? 9. Do you have the time and resources to do it (if you're doing it yourself) or the money (if you're paying someone). I'm sure there are a few things I've forgotten, but if you're happy with your answers to these questions, go for it! Doing the work is straightforward enough if you're sensible, and there are plenty of people to ask questions of thanks to HMVF and other forums. Don't forget that mounting the engine is a relatively small part of the job; what'll take the time is doing the plumbing and ancillaries. I always try to simplify the job as much as possible; for example, make sure you get all the bits you'll need with the engine (particularly on modern engines with management systems and so on) and use the gearbox that came with the engine (it's usually easier to sort out gearshifts, propshafts and so on rather than making an engine fit a box, though that's not always the case). Hope this helps.

That's the fellows I was thinking of, thanks Ted

I think there's an RAF fire service historical collection, and I believe these vehicles are theirs, though I don't know if it's an official thing or just a bunch of ex-RAF Fire Service guys keeping the flame alive (!)

:shocked: Best I get on and win the lottery then. Anyone got any cheap Hellcats lying around?

Is it a J-type? Wings more rounded, bonnet deeper, no rear quarter lights, sidelights on top of the wings - I'd say it's an A-type (or maybe D-type), in which case it'd be running older style, narrower rear wheels maybe with 7.00 or 7.50 x 20s or similar on. Wheel combination looks odd though, almost as if it's got 16" wheels on the front and 20" on the back.

One of the vehicles at the Lake District amphibious do for several years was our M2 bridging rig. We swum it on Ullswater a number of times and Windermere at least once each year; it's done the full length of both lakes. It's also swum on the Thames and elsewhere. There weren't any issues with Ullswater - just turned up and put it in at Glenridding pier. It had to be registered at Windermere, but again it wasn't a big deal - turn up, pay the necessary fees, and put it in at the public slip at Bowness. Unless things have changed in the last two or three years I'd have thought it'd be the same now. I remember going into the licencing and whether it needed to be inspected or not, and concluded that it didn't, but I can't remembe whether that was because of the use we put it to, where we swam it or the type of craft it was.

Some years ago I applied for the workshop manager post - it came down to me and another guy and I think neither of us accepted it (well I know I didn't!). Did they ever employ anyone? What's the workshop structure these days?

Pretty much nothing flew at Bournemouth on Saturday and Sunday due to bad weather - the ceiling was around 300 ft. They got a few aircraft up late Sunday. It's a four day display though, and there was flying Thursday and Friday. I thought the Vulcan made it down but either didn't fly or only flew on Friday.

I thought the RE museum rig was at the RE museum, or am I behind the times?

Anyone know why the M2 rig is there or what they're doing with it?

Jack, This RAF museum leaflet may help further research: http://www.rafmuseum.org.uk/research/documents/e-Info%20Sheet%201%20WW1%20personnel.doc

Jack, I have no idea whether I'll have something that can legitimately take part or whether there'll be room if I have, but if I can help out in any way just ask. Only just up the road as well.

I think we have to be very careful about saying things like this. You're absolutely right, older vehicles only have to compy with the construction and use regulations in force at the time they were built. However, it's a long stretch to say that because something was used at the time, it must be legal now. As legality depends on taxation class / vehicle type, it may be legal to use it for a particular purpose but not for another use; vehicles may have been on the road illegally in the first place, due to errors or non-declaration; finally, MoD vehicles are not necessarily required to comply with construction and use in the first place, so use by the MoD doesn't necessarily imply legal civilian use.

Mark, is that Pathfinder you're talking about or CMV?

'Scuse me if I'm being thick, is this issue out yet? If not, when? Cheers

You insure and MoT an unregistered vehicle on the chassis number.

Forward control 4x4? Commer cab Ford?

Given that Tev's is a civvy MJ it's probably got a thermostart as well - I think it was only the multi-fuel engine that had the ether system.

I'd have loved to have run it, at least now and again, but sadly I couldn't afford to buy it... Red Arrows today over Swanage...

Just waded (!) through this thread. Not going to make any comment on the incident or this discussion, just a few general points which might be helpful: IF you've got recovery equipment and are going to get involved in recovery or towing just 'for fun', there's no reason you can't inform yourself and work to a good, safe standard. The kit and the information is all available, often cheap or free. It's interesting, it'll mean you get more enjoyment from the vehicle, and it might keep you safe if you use it 'in anger'. Regulations such as LOLER apply where the Health and Safety at Work act applies, but there's no reason you can't apply the standards in private life; they're simple, straightforward and not onerous. See http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg290.pdf In particular, inspecting equipment is straightforward and information on how to do so and what to look for is freely available on the interweb, often on the sites of equipment manufacturers such as Crosby. Knowing what to look for will also help when buying used kit at shows. If you don't want to do it, it's a few quid per piece of kit for one of the equipment suppliers to do it. We inspect every six months - start and end of the show season might be suitable. Don't assume new kit is expensive. Trade lifting equipment suppliers are helpful and reasonably priced (I can't remember the last time I paid more than £20 for a webbing sling). As Cosrec says,buy modern kit and hide it, leaving the period stuff for show; the modern kit is so much better and easier to use. Understand how to work out loadings and load limits, and how using the tackle affects what loads it will cope with. All the information is out there, usually for free and again, often on the equipment manufacturers' websites. Information about how to use the kit and carry out recoveries is readily available as well. If you want to keep the military theme, various editions of the REME recovery manual can be had at shows etc. I think the US version is available on the internet, and there's plenty of other information out there. Cosrec's already referred to Tow 411, a mainly American towing and recovery forum; it's packed with invaluable advice and examples of recoveries which have gone right and wrong, with useful discussion and pointers - how to and how not to! Read the towing and recovery thread: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?8900-Recovery-and-Towing/page2

Tev, Does the white smoke smell dieselly and sting your eyes and nose a bit? Might well indicate injector problems. It'd be worth pulling them and getting them tested. When replacing them, use new sealing washers and check in the bottom of the injector sleeves in the head carefully to make sure there aren't any old washers left in there. They tend to get stuck in there and it's easy to miss them; if there's more than one washer in there the injectors don't stick into the head far enough and you don't get good atomisation, resulting in a smoky engine, poor starting and low power. I took a stack of three old washers out of one cylinder on a 330 once! The injectors sit in tubular sleeves in the head, which go through the water jacket. It's possible to dislodge these while removing stubborn injectors, so make sure they're still seated properly before putting the injectors back in. If you need to remove one of these sleeves, ask here or read the manual before you do so; they're easily damaged. I've had good results with injector cleaner, but generally only for cleaning up a smoky but basically OK engine for the MoT. In the situation you're in, I'd pull them out and test them. Being a civvy MJ it'll have the distributor type injector pump. I've had trouble with these in the past (though not, admittedly, on Bedfords) where a fuel system fault has allowed them to draw very small amounts of air. It's not enough to kill the engine during the day but enough to make starting difficult overnight. It's a long shot, but it's so easy to give it a quick bleed to check you might as well give it a go. Also check pump timing while you're there. I assume you've checked the fuel lift pump is working OK?

IME a 330 shouldn't need the thermostart in typical British temperatures, as Richard says - should be a good starter if in good condition. Hope it hasn't become addicted to the easy-start. Try the obvious stuff first. Work through it, simple things first; fuel filter etc. Is it allowing the fuel to drain back when standing (check connections, pump)? Is it drawing small amounts of air from a poor connection somewhere? What are the injectors like - does it smoke when running?