Sean N

Jeremy, before Maurice sends you his (with the attendant risk) is it worth talking to someone like Chris Morter? A parts specialist might be glad to help you out in return for drawings / patterns / a supply source if they know you're going to the effort of replicating it?

Mike, I took the liberty of posting this on Axis History. Didn't get much more information, but I did get confirmation of Pekka's thought that FZ might mean fuse - apparently it's usually an abbreviation for Fern-Zünder, or remote detonator.

Dave, do you have dimensions? I have several different rubbers but none with part numbers on.

I'd agree with Richard; it's difficult to see where else it could be coming from. I would check the expanders are operating correctly, as the grease can go hard and make them stick; and remove the brake cylinders and strip them to check the seals and make sure they're operating correctly, as they tend to corrode when left standing.

I think you will struggle. I know of probably 3 vaguely decent Karrier K6s, and one of those needs patching to the cab. The cab will have been the first bit to go on any that are rusting away. (someone will now prove me wrong by finding one that's had its front end sprayed with waxoil and stuck in a barn) They are, however, very simply made out of straight flat bits of metal, which makes replacement straightforward. Some of the bits may be obtainable, but I think you'll end up fabricating most. However, I and a couple of others should be able to help if you need a prototype to take measurements from.

Or a lifetime of use by people who were craftsmen and actually knew what they were doing...

Your call - depends what you feel happy doing, and how it fits with your budget, work etc. Hiring a trailer is probably cheapest on your wallet (though perhaps not by much once you've counted hire charges, fuel, time and so on), and an adventure, but it'll take a day or two of your time, so you'd have to consider what else you'd be doing. If you're not in the habit of towing large trailers, you need to be reasonably comfortable you're happy doing so and understand the basics of loading, towing and so on. Most car trailers you hire these days should come kitted out with the ratchet straps / tie downs etc. that you'll need. Getting someone to move it is easy; you just get some bids, make a call and wait for it to turn up, but you obviously pay for that convenience and it might take the fun and involvement out of it. You'd be able to find someone to transport it through sites like this, on eBay or similar, by phoning round companies locally or by using sites such as Shiply and Anyvan. I'd guess many carriers might not want to get involved in any procedures at the docks, as well, so you may end up having to go down there to meet them anyway. Will you be expected, or need to, inspect the vehicle after it's released and before it leaves the docks? That would also mean you'll have to go down there anyway. As for getting an MV owner to help you out, I'll leave that to others...

Lists sent; I've sent as a round robin email, so if you don't see it, take a look in your junk mail folder.

All messages received, will try to get them out today. Thanks.

I think this is the key. There's increasing interest and value in WW2 stuff, but it's seen as Germany v. UK / US / Russia - anything else doesn't get a look in. Given how little German equipment survived, there's much more money to be made in making a replica, particularly if you can pass it off as genuine. Personally I'd much prefer that interesting original pieces of history, whether mainstream or not, stayed as interesting original pieces of history, but unfortunately money talks.

Unlikely that steel baskets would be put around airfield lights; any infrastructure on the active part of an airfield would normally be frangible (designed to fragment) to prevent damage to an aircraft in case of a collision.

All, Previous thread:http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?55084-Lots-of-parts-for-lots-of-(mainly-British)-things! It's expired so I can't reply there! Everyone who asked should now have had a copy of the current list. I sent it as a bulk email, so if you haven't had it, it may have gone into a junk folder. Some of you will be aware I've been having a bit of a sort out: see http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?45258-What-s-Sean-got-now I've come across a lot of stuff that either I've bought and not used or aqcuired along the way. I've got no use for it, so it all might as well go to good homes. The bulk is spares for British military and commercial vehicles of the 1940s to 1970s (mostly '50s and '60s), plus some odds and ends. There's anything from odd nuts and bolts to engines, gearboxes and axles, new and used. My focus has been on Bedford and Austin, but there's also odds and ends of a lot of other stuff; Rootes Group, BMC, Leyland, Thornycroft, Perkins, Jaguar, Scammell and stuff that's of general use. I've put together a list of what I've found so far, and I'm still digging! If you'd like a copy of the list so far drop me a message through HMVF, including your email address, and I'll sort one out. I'll keep updating those who've expressed interest, as I find things. Thanks.

Hi Chrispy, I don't think it is too difficult - OK, the bodywork or coachbuilder might be hard to pin down (though I'm still sure I've seen this woody, or one like it, before); but everything about the vehicle itself says it's a Chevrolet light truck, probably for me an early wartime one. The good news is that there are plenty of these around for restoration, though at a price (particularly given the low pound at the moment), and you might have to take an educated guess at the body, though getting a good approximation probably wouldn't be that difficult.

Anyone know how Rover filled their engine rebuild plates? The serial number on a rebuilt series 1 2 litre is given as K2177/30/20 - might the 30/20 refer to overbore & crank undersize?

Even the bonnet

This might help: Whatever it is, it's got heavily offset wheels with, I'd say, at least 9.00 x 16 if not 10.50 x 16 tyres, but that could be a local mod. It's niggling me that I know what this is, but i can't place it. At the moment I'm inclined to think Chevrolet on the 1/2 ton or 1 ton truck chassis / front end.

I thought it was a Snipe at first, but I'm not sure it is on a closer look. The front doors are hinged at the front, rather than the rear like a Snipe; the doors are much more upright with two rather than three ribs, the windows are a different shape, and the bonnet, running boards and wheelarches look different. Edit - having said that, could it be a different coachbuilder?

Yes, I know. The first article is from the local Detroit News today, building on the CEMA comment yesterday. The allpar.com item they reference is here, but it doesn't add much: http://www.allpar.com/news/2016/11/wpc-museum-closing-its-doors-for-good-34808 The second article was just for background, as there's a lot of information about what's at the museum for those who didn't know, like me. Obviously anything it says about the museum having re-opened predates the closure announcement and isn't relevant.

http://www.detroitnews.com/story/business/autos/chrysler/2016/11/04/fca-convert-chrysler-museum-office-space/93276444/ http://autoweek.com/article/car-life/walter-p-chrysler-museum-reopens-public

Clive, I think this is the Mk2 version of the FV2500 but of course that doesn't make it the same. There's quite some discussion of the different variants here, in which you posted a photo of the binned stores version of the Rubery Owen trailer: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?2991-Just-Had-That-Dreaded-Call-from-Withams http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?2991-Just-Had-That-Dreaded-Call-from-Withams&p=25801#post25801

Can anyone definitively identify a set of four Rover pistons, part number 246346? They don't come up in Rover parts lists, perhaps because the part number is for the set and individual pistons might have a different part number? I have seen these listed as for Rover 60 and Land Rover Series 1 2 litre engines but variously for 1952-1955, 1954 - 1955 and 1954 - 1959. I'd like to eliminate the confusion! Thanks.

Originally 90 EP but 80W-90 EP will be fine. My preference is for GL-4 if available, it'll be OK with GL-5 though. Must be an EP oil as it's a hypoid diff.

Colin, the main the with an MJ is to keep the rot out of the cab. Cab gutters / roof seams, door bottoms, footsteps, front lower quarter panels, window and screen surrounds, cab mounts, floor areas and box sections, access hatches and wheel arch seams - in fact, pretty much every seam - are all areas to watch.

First check if there's excessive lash in the diff by the free play (rotation) in the prop. Also check whether there's any detectable play in the pinion shaft bearing by trying to move the prop / pinion shaft radially - the bearing is preloaded so there shouldn't be any radial play. Might be worth just jacking it up and spinning the wheels by hand to check for wheel bearing problems, but really you'd expect that in two or four wheel drive. Also, if you're not sure where the noise is coming from check the transfer box for bearing problems, again by pushing and pulling on the props to see if there's any play. Check all oil levels as Richard says. Popping the cover off to check the diff is a five minute job. It's a cork gasket which might tear if it's been on there a while, so having another gasket ready might be an idea. Look at the crown wheel for excessive wear and correct meshing marks. Don't be afraid of it, they're a simple axle to repair if there is a problem.

Some of the bits that are left, in case they're any clue: