Sean N

Assuming it's the Hypoid axle, which I can't tell from the photo, it's probably R type or very early MK. I think that means the part you want is 6350119. If it is the R type axle, it might affect the detail of which brakes etc. you have as well.

Mike, I've also had oddities trace to distributor faults, not on GMC but on related engine families. As you say, though, the failure after increasingly shorter amounts of time does sound rather like a component breaking down. Your idea of a third set of (preferably known good) parts may be a good one - as you know, it's by no means unknown for new or NOS parts to be faulty out of the box.

Not military, but a friend has a Lomas bodied 1962 Bedford J1 ambulance for sale. Nice thing but needs substantial restoration - the body's not bad, but there's rust in all the usual J type places. 214 petrol engine, standard running gear. If anyone's interested, give me a shout by PM and I'll pass it on.

No gaiters or tank, but I do have some other bits including track rod ends.

Sunday:

Probably didn't take much spotting, Clive? Does this mean BT have done their stuff?

Saturday:

Didn't see any Tooms in there - Lighting, Valiant, Javelin, Canberra. At least they managed several minutes of Lighting footage without any of them catching fire. Was the Karrier you were thinking of the one that used to be at Middle Wallop, then moved over to the museum - red and white chequered like the side of the Landy in the film?

Bright and dry in Dorset this morning - looking forward to it.

Have his what under the bonnet of the WLF, Jack?!!

Original posted updated to reflect new information. Neil, the Militant looks to be an FV11008 with the chassis overhang shortened.

Dave, just sent you a message.

Dave, you have a PM. Neil, it's just got a 4 tonner body on at the moment. Not sure what body it was originally, I should get a look at it in the next few days.

And that's Greenwich, Connecticut, in case anyone's off to east London...

Coming up for sale shortly: Karrier K6 3 ton GS with winch in fairly good order, running, needs some restoration and recommissioning. Karrier K6 3 ton GS with winch for full restoration, complete and very original but cab very poor. Some Karrier K6 spares including engines, body parts, axle, suspension, winch, gearbox, transfer box etc. AEC Militant Mk1 6x4 FV11008 with winch, chassis / cab with Bedford MK / MJ body, running, needs light restoration and recommissioning, clutch stuck, chassis shortened at rear. Body could be removed if not wanted. Dana 60 HD heavy duty front and rear axles, new old stock. Fronts: 610135-1, 4.1:1 (4.10) ratio, standard rotation, low carrier, offset diff, 35 spline shafts, 30 spline stub, king pin swivel, fully floating. Rear: 605224-1, 4.1:1 (4.10) ratio, standard rotation, low carrier, 30 spline shafts, centre diff, fully floating. Dodge D series / Ram 'New Process' NP 435 4WD transmission with NP 205 gear driven transfer box, new old stock. Dodge D series / Ram new old stock spares including brake, transmission, suspension, engine, electrical etc. etc. parts., new old stock brake master cylinders and servos (master cylinders also fit Jeep CJ) Firestone 6 x 16 8 stud 'accu-ride' steel wheels new old stock (suit Dana axles above). Jeep CJ2A chassis with ID, axles, tub, engine, gearbox. Jeep Cherokee SJ 1978 / 'S' registration rolling chassis with ID and log book, Dana 44 axles. A friend is going to have these up for sale fairly shortly, they're just being sorted out at the moment. I have permission to post these - if anyone's interested send me a PM and I'll pass it on or answer if I can.

Cylinder rubbers from Nelson Stokes in Camelford. Axle oil seal is an industry standard size, should be able to get it from a good bearing & power transmission suppliers near you. Colin, did you see my last comments on your oil filter topic?

Colin, I hate to say this but if you're going to fit a remote filter that's probably not the best way to do it. Most K9s were fitted with a bypass filter, as yours is. Bypass filters are fitted in parallel to the normal flow of oil through the bearings - they don't take the full flow of the oil. That's why a high dispersancy oil (one that retains contaminants in suspension so they can be filtered out) is a bad idea with a bypass filter, and why oil change intervals are so short in bypass filter engines. For a classic vehicle, seeing low and not particularly arduous use and (hopefully) regular maintenance at probably shorter than recommended intervals, this probably isn't an issue. You could live with the old filter and change the oil regularly, likely without problem, or fit a new standard bypass filter - if you can find one! As an alternative, you can buy aftermarket replacements for the bypass filter which use a replica filter casing with a modern spin on filter mounted inside; although this still leaves you not filtering the oil fully. However, RAF vehicles had a modern style full flow filter fitted in line with the oil flow, low down at the front right hand side of the block; and K9 engines are all equipped to take the full flow filter - Army vehicles just have the fitting blanked off. If you can find a full flow filter and housing you can unblank this and fit the full flow filter. If you are going to go to the trouble of making up and fitting a remote spin-on filter and housing, you might as well make sure you're filtering the oil fully. You could easily make up a take-off plate to fit where the full-flow filter should go and pipe that to your remote filter, giving yourself an easily replaceable full flow filter.

Colin, what filter unit do you have on at the moment? Is it mounted up by the distributor on a bracket with a large and small pipe going to it?

Just putting a list together of all the parts unearthed so far. Anyone want a copy, let me know by PM. Mostly commercial and military, 1940s to 1970s. All sorts of odds & ends new and used.

Cue Kermit: 'It's not easy, being green...'

Was that intentional? Lot more difficult to read...

Well, I'll agree or disagree with both of you! I don't think there's an issue with using 20W50 just on the basis of grade. There might be an issue with using a high dispersancy oil designed for more modern engines in an older engine with a bypass filter. How much any of this matters in a low, light use vehicle run mainly in the summer is moot. The original specification for the Austin K9 is monograde SAE 30 (or OMD 110 in Army speak), and you'll need (at least) two gallons. If you're using SAE 30, I've never had any trouble with Morris' Golden Film oils for classics.

Bryan, I think it entirely depends on the aperture and seal combination. Some seals are an H shape, some a zig-zag so the panel flange and glass effectively overlap, some seals are thicker than others, and so on. I'm happy to be corrected, but I'm not aware of any hard and fast rule that would cover all eventualities apart from measure twice, cut once!

Jack - outstanding. Great job.