Rangie

To signal the CO needs a cup of Baldrick's finest cappuchino? Alec

Atmospheric qualities? It could be used it to measure the capacitance of the free-air in the location it was mounted? Telegraphy Equipment It could be filled with a wadding and a saline solution and be a very rudimentary capacitor? Alec.

A specimen/sample transport box? The hole looks to be too small for transporting homing pigeons though Unless, of course they are small pigeons.......... Or its a large box.............. :laugh: Alec.

Oh here we go again, its almost as bad as jerry can colours! :rofl::rofl: Carry on.......... :-D Alec.

Ring compression joints don't need any. Flanges should be cleaned and dressed meticulously, a wipe of copper grease and a clean gasket should be sufficient. Often, remaking a gasket in Klinger composite exhaust joint instead of copper-asbestos, results in a more compressible seal which seals better/lasts longer. Slip-joints, it depends on the tolerances of the pipes, again a nice smooth fit should only require a good dose of copper grease. I only use exhaust paste very lightly/sparingly, when there is a real need such as pitted flanges or loose-tolerance slip joints, but I always see it as a bodge to seal poorly fitted parts. I openly admit to using it for 6 years to seal a RRC V8 exhaust manifold around #7 cylinder. It always blew very slightly, hardly noticeable under normal use but wouldn't pass the expert ear of the MOT tester. One fingerful of exhaust bodge would last 2 days before it fell out again, long enough to pass the test though.... :angel: Alec

For shiny coach enamel I like to use a stiff foam roller, always had excellent results with it, dosen't seem to vary between makes. For satin/matt and primer, I have found that the Harris slightly furry roller with a blue stripe produces the best results. For cutting in around edges/seams, I prefer a mid-to-soft weight longish-bristle brush, usually 1.5" wide, then pick up with the roller as far in as possible. I have always used solvent or spirit based paints, I far prefer them and think they are more durable. On thinking, I've only ever sprayed lacquer, never tried it with a roller............ Alec.

One of my ambulances is 18H and it was 26th Jan 72, the other 90H and it was 2nd Feb 72. I'd say the 25th/26th Jan 72 for yours!! How's that for accuracy? :-D Alec.

A version of an electrical fish-tape? A fish tape often has a bronze ball crimped on the end so that it can ride in any direction through conduits........ :cheesy: Maybe something like a length of 1.6mm welding wire with a large (1/2") loop on the end so that it rides over the knobbles and follows the contour of the pipe better? With a flat loop like that you may have to direct it down at a certain angle to let it ride correctly. Just a thought.... Alec.

I've used Activ8 in Fairey Overdrives for 11 years now across 3 vehicles (one vehicle I've used it in for 8 years). Comparing before and after noise, oil condition, etc, I would say it works exceptionally well IN THIS APPLICATION. Quieter running, less breakdown of the oil, almost no particles/contamination since. I swear by it in Overdrives. I have also used it in Land Rover gearboxes/TX boxes, but those experiments were largely inconclusive. Careful what you add to your fluids, additives can cause weird break-downs of oil and component properties at elevated temperatures/pressures. Alec.

Anyone fancy a T34? Or a T-38, or an army track-machine, or anything else they happen to pull out of a Russian bog! Very interesting :-D Alec.

Thanks for that, I've managed to find/download a big file, 90-odd Megs worth of user/workshop/mountains of info/Mog-related stuff! :cheesy: It's gonna be a flat bed just to be sure now....... :-D Alec.

Hi Folks, I haven't looked into joining a Unimog or merc forum just yet because the deal hasn't been finalised..... The Mog is approx 40 miles away and a good mate has a spec-lift lorry that would cope no bother. Does anyone know the configuration of the transmission/4WD system? Is it Hi/N/Lo selector and a 2WD/4WD selector? I am looking into a suspended tow and wondered if the transfer box could be placed in neutral to allow the run home. I am also considering it may be easier if it could be left in 2WD, lashing the steering and suspending the rear end. Torque tubes means no propshaft removals, although pulling halfshafts may be an option. Any thoughts? Alec.

A wire gauze in a canister to stop flames/blowbacks. A wash in petrol and a few squirts of clean oil does the job to clean it up. Alec.

Bah! Dammit! Again! Al get me coat........... :embarrassed: Alec

Phew, 7 pages in, thought i'd missed this one....... :-D Is it for 2 men to elevate a barrel after it has been reloaded? Alec.

This isn't to be taken lightly, go to the docs and make sure the head is out. It may be fine, it may be a zap with nitrogen and a root out, either way its peace of mind. I use a tiny green hook that looks like a miniature crowbar for removing them, works really well, hook it under and twiddle it gently round and the tic detaches itself. I put a dod of anthisan on the bite area then just to make sure. Not had many, maybe 3 in the last 10 years but they are evil buggers. Alec.

Interior is a bit of a bomb site I have a couple of pictures though, as I say, stripped out..... Roof supports are double struts behind driver and passenger. The comms box was on the support behind the driver, both of the head restraint pads are also present. I completely forgot to photograph the axles! I stand by them being ENV though, fancy a bet? :laugh: No wooden over-floor panels, just the GRP ones. Nylon rollers??? Seems a bit flimsy, I'll turn up replacements though, maybe in something sturdier, although that opens up the debate to where you are transferring the wear to. I hardly think that matters for a showpiece, but then again why not use nylon if its hardly going to be used? Aaah, Catch-22s, gotta love them. Alec.

NOW THEN, WHEELS, FAR BETTER!!! It's really coming on nicely!! One thing though, are you going to go round the chassis and nick off all the oddball mounts and LDV related stuff? If it's odds n sods that are going to be exposed/seen, it would really give the chassis a clean look :-) Keep up the good work, great stuff...... Alec.

Hi folks, here's a few initial pictures of my latest project, a Mk3 Shorland A previous owner's stalled project, I have now taken it on. I've known of the vehicle for approx 12 years now through various connections but hadn't laid eyes on it until recently. Some facts and figures: Reg: 12 FL 08 Chassis No. 942#####A Asset Code: 1723-6769 NSN: 2320-99-893-2797 Postings: VSD Long Kesh 06/07/72 9 UDR (V) 26/07/72 5 UDR (V) 11/11/82 VSD NI 19/07/83 VSD Hilton 05/03/84 S/O 08/09/86 Shorts Serial No.: AC3/RH/P/Q33 AC3 - Armoured Patrol Car Mk 3 RH - RH drive P - Petrol Q33 UDR Sequence Number Contract Code: FV15765 (One of 26 vehicles in the FL series) It was stripped as an ongoing project. The engine was rebuilt and the rear crossmember was replaced, although the chassis has gotten crustier in the intervening years! Now gone at the classic spot above the front of rear spring hangers where the chassis sweeps up over the rear axle...... The joys..... Remarkably complete, it has all the seats, flaps, hatches, periscope, gun mount, turret, spare wheel, GRP floor panels and assorted spares the owner has squirrelled away over the years. Also what appears to be an intercom box with a through-connection for the comms aerial. Not missing much, the fuel tanks have dissolved as usual but I hope to get measurements from someone.... The wire mesh front grille is missing so I may be asking about for one to use as a pattern in the future.... Turret rollers are shot, but I think all the bits are there for patterns. The trakmat (I think that's what its called) has been extensively removed due to drooping, splitting, welding around it etc, although some pieces are there. For the near future the hull shall be rubbed back and painted an innocuous but light colour inside. Who knows, I may find stuff in the future but its far from the heart of the vehicle and I'm not going to loose sleep over it! Short term plan is to get it home, largely reassemble it with all the hatches in place, making it mainly watertight. A good rub down to remove loose rust/paint and prime/paint it to protect it from the elements. A shed extension later in the year means it will go undercover then and work will commence apace. :laugh: So thats it for now :-D, next job is to get the beast running and rebuild the clutch master/slave cylinders to enable it to move under its own power (nearly said steam, bloody hope not!), to get it loaded and taken home. Nothing worse than trying to manouver a dead spider with a tirfor! (A phrase I coined for my recalcitrant 50 year old jcb with dodgy hoses!! :nut: I've had a few "classic" moments with it at the most inopportune moments ) Also take the gas axe and oil to the hatch hinges to try and get some of them to open smoothly! I can feel the bones in the back of my neck click when I open the main doors!! :cool2: I am indebted to the previous owner for keeping all the bits safe and also to the wise old sage Clive Elliott who has provided me with much information and advice. The fun starts here, progress pics to follow anon.... Alec.

I want that opening screen section!!!! Alec

Nothing military, and the name I go by on the other forums I am a member of! Comes from my deep rooted fetish of all things Rover............ Alec.

:wow: Worst i've seen was a rear pad in a discovery, it had turned in the worn caliper and was cutting its way through the disc, "the brakes are making a noise at the back" :shocked: Alec.

HA HA HA, brilliant! :clap: May I respectfully suggest smashing the life out of it it with a hammer to relieve the pent up tension of receiving poor quality crap, and getting a suitable replacement? :rofl: It's a cracker, I suppose you could run the risk of jamming the bulb in but the chances of arcing/melting the holder is high, don't chance it dude. S##tpart ones are only about £2.50 from paddocks.......... you could do it all again then Alec.

For me, Das Boot has always had the top-slot! Alec.

Aye Aye! Welcome from another northerner! Alec.