Rangie

Oh, for my first attempt at a dedicated oil gun i followed the following article a couple of years ago: http://www.omgtr.ca/technical/highpressureoiler/highpressureoiler.htm The three guns I tried weren't really suitable, so after making an arse of them all and throwing them in the bin, I stuck with the cab pump.... Alec

I couldn't find one of those oiler things Clive is on about, an Andy5000 or something like that. Sooo, what I use for greasing the nipples and spring pins on my old lorry is an artic tractor unit cab-tilt pump and reservoir! I use a 4' length of 1/4" hydraulic hose fitted with a nipple connector, plumbed into the pump. Top it up, off you squirt! It can be hard going in cold weather because its designed for 30 grade hydraulic oil :cheesy: but it's never let me down and I've used it a few years now. I've been meaning to extend the size of the reservoir so it hold more between top-ups, but in the long run so what If you have to fill it up often? Alec.

This looks like the early 1/2 ton type used by landies and gypsies, not 100pc but i'll have a trawl through my notes..... :-D Alec.

Hello, Does anyone know the suitability of towing the Arrows 1.75 tonne trailer behind a Landie/Rangie? (Power not an issue :-D) I appreciate the width of the trailer but wonder if anyone has any experience of it? My Brockhouse can be a handful at times in certain circumstances but it is great to tow generally and built like a tank. I have the chance of an Arrows locally at the right price.......... :cool2: Alec.

Shortie! Good man yourself! This site will give you bad ideas bud............. :-D Alec.

Great stuff! Small world, see, you can't go anywhere without bumping into a Caithness Teuchtar :-D As long as its not a Wicker, dangerous types them..... :cool2: Alec.

Welcome along Colin! I don't suppose you are close to the place Rumster in Caithness......... ? :-D Alec.

Avoid the camo pajamas and the scrim-net bed throw, you'll never know if they're playing truant or not........ :-D Alec.

Down boy! All in good time........... Alec.

Hi, I would have thought it should have the cast iron manifold with the bimetallic flap, that would change the orientation of the carb studs 90 degrees? A 90 degree adaptor would work as well but be careful incase it insulated the carb too much, you might end up with carb icing etc as a result :-| I have a wartime 28hp MW engine in my 49 MLD, it is fitted with the cast iron manifold and a Solex RZFAIP carb, fitted with the 0 degrees F Starter modification. I'll take some pics if I remember.... :-D Alec.

And remember to change your fuel filters and drain the agglomerator as well........... Alec.

Very succinctly put folks, thanks! Alec

Hi Folks, I appear to have stumbled into a minefield while looking for tyres for my Bedford! The manual says 32x6 size. Now, my interpretation of this is a tyre of 32 inches diameter of 6 inches width. It is 100% aspect ratio, therefore a sidewall height of 6 inches also. I have 20 inch rims so thats 20"+6"+6"=32" diameter : Bingo! Now then, 32" equates to 813mm So does that mean a nominal new tyre size of 800 or 825-20? Or does the 80% aspect ratio factor in........ Grr! Or I may just fit 750-20s to help the torque of the engine. Sigh....... Any thoughts anyone? Alec.

I would err on the side of edge joggling. I find welding older aluminium can be fairly problematic. :undecided: How about joggling the roof section then use countersunk rivets to let in the new metal and finally a skim of filler to make it invisible on the outside? The snag would be the line of rivets on the inside..... You could drill the new section and plug weld it with mig to make it invisible as well. Again, electric spot-welding alloy has reduced me to a swearing wreck in the past due to the energy levels involved in welding thicker gauge alloy. A tip an old hand gave me was to butt-weld the two sections in very short tacks, allow to cool and then continue to join the dots in an irregular fashion to minimise distortion. I have found I end up dollying the repair afterwards to remove the worst of the distortion. So yeah, for skins I prefer mechanical fixings, for structures/castings I weld. Just my tuppenceworth Alec.

Any idea what the other lorry in the shed was??? :cool2: Alec.

I found some specs for the trailer: Overall Length - 21' 4" Overall Width - 7' Frame Length - 16' 3" Turning Circle - 54' I could accommodate this beast but it would eat up half a container!! As it is, the meadows occupies a third! Has anyone seen these for sale/lying around? I imagine there would have nominally been one for every generator, I have seen 3 generators and no trailer! :-D One note regarding the emergency brakes: As I read it, I take it there is an air reservoir on the trailer so that in the event of a line failure, a shuttle shall apply the brakes to the trailer to stop it. In other words, if the air system is depressurised, no brakes are applied and the trailer is free to roll? Alec.

Is it just me who is picturing a Stephen King's Misery-style scenario developing here?? :wow: Alec :-D

Does anyone have any specs for the trailer used to transport the meadows generator? Usually used in conjunction with radar units from the 50s to the 80s. I'm considering one for my generator to complete the pairing, but if it is too much of a behemoth, I won't bother!! :-| Length, width, weight, FV number and braking system type etc would all be useful info if possible :cool2: Alec.

Lucy grinned to herself, holding the hull bung tightly in her left hand. "Have a good trip dear!" she shouted. "Now", she thought, "I wonder if Ricardo fancies coming round for the evening........" :-D Alec.

I love the sand-traps/weathering and the scruffy exhaust! :laugh: You're talented my friend! Alec.

I usually give the stuff a good soaking in paraffin first to soften everything up, followed by a blast from the pressure washer with a dilute solution of TFR (traffic film remover) fed in and a final rinse-off after. Great effect, almost like the stuff was steeped in fairy liquid and boiling water for an hour, squeaky clean One of my mates has the luxury of a hot pressure washer/steam lance. By hell that shifts stuff too! So quick! Bit of a scuttle taking stuff over to him though..... Alec

Well, it looks like an insulated electrical terminal post to me! Did you have a split charger or anything fitted that required an additional feed taken elsewhere? It may also be that it was used on the bulkhead to link out what would have been the starter solenloid on a non pre-engaged (inertia) starter motor system after a pre-engaged starter was fitted, if you know what I mean. Also the case if it was converted from petrol to diesel, the solenoid wire would have been extended from its original place to down onto the starter motor as well. Does that jog any memories? Alec.

Whats the latest on the armoured car build??? Alec.

Er, no. Head to the nearest agricultural suppliers or if you are friendly with a farmer, go see them and ask after an empty 205L plastic drum. Cut the top off, hey presto! Or get a couple and slice the second one down for smaller parts. Free drum, cheap washing soda, a few gallons of water, some scrap offcuts of rebar for anodes, a power supply and a bulb for a current limiter, lash at it! :-D Alec.

Regarding the petrol tank with the long spout: You could take the sender out and dangle a large coil of iron rod down into it to cover the most surface area. Or, as I did for a complicated water-pump casting, thread an iron rod down a small piece of alkethene or reinforced poly-pipe, used as an insulator, down and through into the tank. You would have to ensure the tank was submerged fully and the mixed solution was evenly distributed. Best to have the filler neck upright to release the gases/froth, so you may have to do it in a 200L drum with the top cut off If you are making a lot of solution, dangle a lot of parts!! Mind you, the more parts and the larger the surface area, the larger the amount of current is required to have a decent affect! :nut: Enjoy! Alec.