Mk3iain

I'm no expert but I think if using an A frame the casualty would have to have coupled brakes as it is now a trailer. Also is it a series or later permenant 4WD ? I would also say go for a trailer. Iain

Is this a full re-spray including the crane etc, in which case it will be stunning !:shocked: Looking forward to seeing the result. Iain

Or even Wales Terry

You'r not wrong, it's taking all my willpower to rain back and not get too carried away. But, the cab exterior will have to be sorted especially the roof to seal out water and a nice coat of DBG. The rest of the truck will be done as I can, in the wings a Jag XJ6C is waiting for a complete restoration to become my daily driver and then the EB will get the treatment....:nut: Cheers Iain

When I was running a tank driving bussines with quite a few military vehicles I gave the local Fuchs depot a ring and they supplied OM13, OEP 220 and a few others in the tins as supplied to the MOD. I was after equivalents but they just said "but we supply the original, will that do" ! The price was the same anyway and it came in the correct tins, perfect. This is about 12 yeas ago but I am sure they will still be able to help. Cheers Iain

These are a good idea, with the correct reflectors of course ! Would also make great trailer boards Actually, the parts in lights etc. are worth it. Iain

I see where you are coming from guys(excuse the pun) and totally understand. I must admit I have pondered the hazards of poor visibility in the event of a break down (I know unlikely with a Mk3 ) especially at night. So I used the strobes I had removed from my beavertail when I sold it and wired them up to be used with magnets and a booster pack or cigar lighter socket. I have also got a din mount beacon and some extensions, with a mount on the rear right box on the Milly and wired to the sidelights, easy to fit or remove as required. I have not got around to fitting the din mount yet.:blush: Its on my list ! ~ Cheers Iain

I am not sure of the "Mk1" Milly but surely it goes faster than 15mph, Mk3 should be up to around 50mph so why the need for beacons in normal road driving? I appreciate they are green and do not stand out too well at times and we all want to be safe but the chevrons on the back with normal sidelights (in the case of the Mk3) are up to modern standards (pretty much). :undecided: Can't hurt I suppose and I am just curious, your trucks your rules. It helps that I am in Aberdeenshire and road traffic is not quite as busy as in your neck of the woods....:laugh: cheers Iain

Then its the decision - DBG as it would have been in the fifties and sixties. Or IRR green with black overlay of the Eighties and nineties How about painting in gloss DBG as it would have left the factory and after a few months if you want to, cover it in Matt IRR green and black. The gloss paint will give the metal better protection as the Matt would be porous and you'll get rust coming through soon enough. Unless you regularly wipe it down with Duck oil, it is good with old Matt paint and Carc.:undecided: Keep the pics coming when you get it !! cheers Iain

Hi Trevor The glass wool went straight in the bin and I am using sticky sponge like insulation on the outer skin and bitumin like sticky panels on the inner skin. I have only taken off the skin of the lower panels the roof remains to be done at some time.....:blush: The colours don't come out very well on the pics but it is a lot cleaner and brighter in the cab now. Cheers Iain

Time for an update. I have been sorting out the cab and painting all the panels and plates that came off then giving he interior a new coat of Aeu De Nil (?) and DBG. The cab is double skinned with glass wool insulation, great for holding moisture and promoting rust, I have taken it out off the lower panels and need to replace the rusty cover plate. I think I am right in thinking the dash/scuttle was black originally (with the instrument panel in a silver crinkle), I took off all the labels and it is black under many of them. Anyway, a cover of satin black should do that and then its time to rebuild the cab and make the truck mobile again. I did not want to get sucked into a monumental restoration but I just cant do all this and not put the effort in, its not coming apart again in the near future ! I hope :undecided: Some views of the cab and parts. ~ ~ Before the bumper goes on there are some rust holes to fix, only primer on the inside with some double skin, what were they thinking would happen !! Cheers Iain

Agreed ! Let's keep it that way !!!

Here they are sitting on the spare wheel cover also made by Allied Forces. (My truck my rules !) :-\ ~

No,sorry. They have been removed and a lid welded on at some time. I had the ones on my good truck sorted at Allied Forces, the only original parts are the metal plates, new foam and canvas covers. If you can fabricate the plates it should be easy to have them covered and filled. Ill post the adjuster Monday. Cheers Iain

No problem Nick. I have been at my new place for two years now, it seems like a few months ! It took me two weeks to move all the "shed stuff" and a couple of days for the furniture etc. Never again..... PM me an address and I'll get it in the post. All you need to do is modify the seat back for a flip over and you'll have a pretty good coming and going seat ! Cheers Iain

Nick, is this any good to you? I got a couple a few years ago just in case, it is very similar to the original with the same stroke etc. Iain, The spare is a boon and luckily not worth saving in its own right, way too far gone. I would not do without the EB after having it for over two years, and the shed it's something I was wishing after for many years, much better than being outside on mud and gravel... Ceers Iain

I am sure the passenger seat does not have hight adjustment, only the drivers seat has that. I have an original drivers seat on my Milly and have taken the original passenger seat of the rusty one, it is fixed other than the fold down back. Is this what you have ? The support frame for the drivers seat (not in the picture, sorry.) is only an inch or two lower than the passengers. I am now after someone to re-upholster them and make a seat cushion for the back seat. iain

Cheers Nick Although it seems like there is no end to it, not shown are the usual struggles and frustrations to do the simplest thing etc. I am taking the opportunity to tart up the cab and reinstate the original fittings, such as the passenger seat! The rest of the truck will be re painted as I can, a bit like the Forth rail bridge. I am not ready to face the task you have taken on, changing the engine has been a big task and I need a break.....:blush: Iain

The engine runs like a dream ! On its first run the oil px gauge hose failed at a fitting , sprayed the chassis and left a nice puddle but after chassing a few weeps and leaks it is fine. I am supprised at how little smoke it is producing compared to the other engine, I can even see the shed door after starting from cold :cheesy: This is it running, a bit of blue haze but a huge amount cleaner than before, well pleased ! Iain

This is the heater removed from the very rusty spares truck, I did not expect it to hold water but it stood up to over 15 psi of water without a weep. A good clean up and a coat of paint and it will get fitted. Here again with the new one I found, not exactly the same but it would do at a pinch. The core is interchangeable with the original bar the hose connections being a larger size. I am going to need a heater as I wont have the turbo to keep me warm (and deaf).:undecided: Iain

Many thanks Iain! Those pics are a great help for more than just the pump. I am sorting out the heater as it was not present on this one. I found a similar new heater ages ago but I have removed the heater from the other truck (from amongst the rust) fully expecting it to be too rusty but is cleaning up OK. The mounting brackets have suffered a bit but the heater is in reasonable condition so it will be cleaned up and re-used. Once the rad is fitted and the coolant filled up I'll rig up the batteries and see if it will go... Cheers Iain

I would prefer to use it for originality, just need to work out where it mounts and which way up???:undecided: If it proves to be a problem in the future I could then go to the 24v pump. Cheers Iain

I am now getting ready to re-fit the radiator and need to decide what to do about the washer pump. I have a NOS air driven washer pump that I would like to fit for originality or I can go with a 24v pump. Has anyone experience of the air driven pumps, are they any good ? If they are known to be usless then I will go with the 24v pump. Cheers Iain

I am looking forward to driving the Milly and seeing if I can tell the difference with the non turbo engine. Hauling 20t around it's never going to be too spritely but I expect the see a slowdown on hills. :laugh: Iain

Hi Iain It had to come off as well, the easiest part of the job!