Mk3iain

The oil filters I use are Fleetguard LF 4003, fuel filters are Mann P917, I have not got around to the hyd filters but would like to find out? Cheers Iain

I keep the pressures at around 70psi+ as I feel it drives better, it seems to wallow and bounce around at lower pressures. Iain

Was Jim not interested in doing them himself? The hip ring pads are to a standard pattern so should be easy enough to get made. The spare wheel cover needs tailoring so a local maker could be of benefit. Good luck with it. Iain

Nothing wrong with a bit of a reminder. Most of us are or should be aware but as can be seen this is an interesting thread and is stimulating discussion. All good stuff as it is interesting in the original incident the young lad seemed to be in absolute denial not accepting he had done anything wrong! We have all seen it I am sure and that sort of attitude does the vast majority of good farmers and contractors etc no favours. Iain

I am sure this is not unheard of even if rare, it's all down to common sense and making sure that you are aware of what's behind you. If you are doing around 25mph you should know what traffic is like behind you. Where the "every third lay by" guide came from ? What if they are miles apart.:nut: Anyway, for a professional driver, not good enough.:nono:

That colour looks good in the sunshine, a really nice job!

I have not seen a BV cable on these before like that. I have fitted mine with one but I am using a control box for the BV, there needs to be a way of switching it on and off. I am sure it is not a standard fit. Iain, the original vented type batteries would I think vent through the two small holes in the rear of the cab on the bikini line.:-D The roof vent is just a fresh air vent for the cab, similar ones were used on other trucks. Is yours missing? Iain

I have had the hip ring pads done in canvas same as the original, the seats are not canvas and they still need refurbishing. Of course the spare wheel cover was done at the same time as the pads in canvas looks OK. Not sure it would be suitable for the seats though. :undecided: I would think canvas would do the job fine enough, was your cover canvas?

Thanks Nick. yes, as well as the canopy for the operator there should be a small bag like cover that goes over the controls and clips onto a row of fastners that are inline with the bolts that hold the top on. I have the fastners but no cover, I've never seen one or a canopy so not sure what materiel they are made of. Possibly canvas or maybe plastic? Iain

Do you have the frame and cover for the crane operator or is the cover you lost for the crane controls? I have neither just now. Being nosey, what kind of paint did they put on? Cheers Iain

Hmm, OK I suppose. Cracking Nick, you must be well chuffed!:thumbsup:

Hard to tell just now Nick, I've not been on the open road with it since the new engine and the Turbo did not start working until at least 1500 revs I should think. low down grunt was not improved by the turbo but road performance possible was, time will tel. It is a lot quieter and more comfortable in the cab and I am pleased with that! Cheers Iain

Ha, not much chance of that. I am concentrating on the cab area just now the rest of the truck will be done as I go. It is nice to have some big jobs out of he way and be well on the way to getting it back to standard. Once the cab is painted I'll be wanting to get it out on the road and enjoy driving it and see if it has changed much from it's turbo days.:-|

A bit of a catch up but not much has happened. I coated the roof in Isoflex after a recommendation from Gordon (I bought it the next day), and I am well pleased. I've just got the rest of the cab exterior to prep for paint but taking the layers off is showing up more work under the filler.... Iain

Here are a couple of pics of an Eager Beaver axel and hub for comparison. I hope it helps. Iain

They are both front axles with central differentials using two equal length short tubes and are narrower than the truck. At least that is how it looks to me. I've not been able to compare to an RL. Iain

Just a thought, but it looks a like an Eager Beaver hub. Iain

Good luck with the spiders! I had to bug bomb the shed last year due to them constantly dropping down from the roof, it's due again! If it's a relay valve that is sticking a gentle tap with a soft hammer may get it moving but will most likely need an overhaul. I have had two that played up constantly but reset with a tap, eventually I stripped them down and had to replace the springs that had corroded. I could do with a few overhaul kits for them, if they are still available. Iain

On my wrecker there is a sliding bolt on the passenger door, the same on the rusty one so I think they are standard. I thought it had been bought in a hardware store... I can feel your frustration, so good luck on Saturday. Iain

Hi Nick I used Aue d nil for the interior, both are available from Marcus Glen. Cheers Iain

Thanks Gordon,£30 is worth it to stop the rot. Overlapping riveted plates and double skin with glass wool insulation is not a good combination. I'll try and get some. I live out by Crudie, a tad further north than the city......:nut: Nick, how was your cab roof? Did you have do anything special to seal it up? cheers Iain

I can't wait to see the result, it will be quiet something. Don't scratch it on the trees on the way home !:captain: I am striving to get layers of paint etc off the cab so that I can give it a fresh coat and fix any problems. My main concern is sealing the roof joints to keep the moisture out. It won't be a top finish by any means as I'll be giving it a go but it will have to do for now. Iain

They are looking for issues! The release docs should be enough, they are for DVLA. I would bin these guys and go somewhere else.

They still wanted me to get display plates Shocking ! Will they then drive it to/from the test station and take the points and fine for displaying false plates? Good luck with the test and registration, it should be painless. Cheers Iain

As many will tell you, you do not need registration plates to get an MOT. You can insure usually temporarily on the chassis number and take it to the MOT station. They will issue a cert using the chassis/vin number so you can then register the vehicle. I've recently done that with a snatch Land Rover and a few other vehicles in the past. The test station need to check their facts, I am sure you can help them with that, or go somewhere else. let us know how you get on. cheers Iain ps, I wonder what they mean by Display Plates, they are usually not road legal for one reason or another and you cannot use the old MOD number, that would be an offence???.